At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi Franklin I personally have not seen a manual for this model. You could try Haynes workshop manuals. Manuals had stopped being produced by dealers as there are so many updates and changes can be made instantly on the web all dealers obtain all manuals on the net but they require a special dealer and tech password. good luck
If the machine is a top loading washer a common cause for this problem is the safety switch in the top lid door. If the switch fails to close because the lid is up or switch failure then the washer will not go into the spin cycle. A projection on the top lid enters a hole allowing the closed lid to activate the safety switch.
On older models the switch activation produces a distinctive click. A small dry wood stick could be used to gently push in to the hole while listening for the distinct click of the switch.
Than carefully closing the lid should produce the same sound. If no sound is produced as when manually bypassing would indicate that the tab on the lid or the switch position has been out of location or the switch is broken
If the tab has broken off the lid or the switch is either out of position or failed the parts will need to be replaced.
If the machine is working in REG mode, then it should produce reports as well. If you turn the key to Z mode and press CASH, what happens?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If anyone needs more information, the Casio 230ER user and programming manual is here:
http://the-checkout-tech.com/manuals/cashregisters/Casio_230ER_operation_and_programming_complete_manual.html
Modern Gas dryers do not have a pilot light. You CANNOT re-light them. They use a glow-bar or spark type igniter to ignite a flame. If you are having problems with ignition, the first thing to check would be if your igniter is working or not. Here's some useful information about igniters you should know and understand:
TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work. Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.
An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check for a glow or listen for a clicking noise. The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light).Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.
Please provide an accurate model number and I can assist you further. If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
there appears to be a problem with 1. the temperature needs to be turned down to produce Ice. also is the fill tube frozen where the water goes into the ice maker sometime you have to thaw it to get the ice out of it and the reset the maker too. Let me know if this helped and if it did not don't rate and ask another question from me and I'll be galad to help. If it did would you please rate this solution please. Thanks for using FixYa.
Here's the owners manual; I don't think they ever produced a _repair_ manual for outside consumption. They want you to buy new hardware, not make what you've got last forever. 5-10 years, fine, but not forever.
I don't know what you mean when you ask about fuses since a blown fuse would stop power to the dryer, but I do know a common reason for a dryer to run and not produce sufficient heat is that it may be cycling on the "safety" thermostat. One common reason for this is that the "cycling" thermostat (which is the thermostat which the dryer should cycle on), located in the exaust air stream, is insulated with collected lint, which also lowers the air flow through the ducts. You may just need to thoroughly clean the accumulated lint. I would suggest buying the service manual for your dryer, if available, and go to the manuals troubleshooting guide.
A test for cycling on the safety thermostat is to run the dryer with a damp load and watch the flame through the small service door at the bottom of the dryer; if the flame stars cycling on and off every, say 15 to 30 seconds, then the dryer is cycling on the saftey thermostat, if the flame repeatedly burns for close to a minute or longer, than that is not the problem.
×