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1.) Check to make sure that the water shut-off valve is all the way open (the water valve a.k.a. the shut-off valve is located behind the toilet near the wall or the floor, depending upon installation placement.) The water supply line attaches to it and feeds up into the refill valve assembly inside the toilet tank.
2.) Check the float assembly or the refill valve assembly, make sure it hasn't bound up by getting caught on another part inside the tank.
3.) Check the water level to make sure that it sits about 1 inch below the overflow tube in the middle of the tank. If the water is lower, adjust the float inside the tank to raise the water level. For models that have a ball float, turn the screw on top of the fill valve clockwise to raise the water level. For models that contain a cylinder float valve attached to the fill valve, squeeze the clip on the side of the float and pull the float up until the water reaches the desired level.
This has 3 common reasons and easy fixes to each: 1, the stopper or flapper ball at the bottom where the water exits the tank may be worn or improperly seating on so the water keeps leaking down into the bowl. The tank will lose water, the supply will keep feeding the tank. Turn off the supply valve to the tank. It may help to apply a little petroleum jelly to the flapper ball to get a water-tight seal. If it's worn, replace it. If the water is running into the over-flow tube, you may be able to fix this by adjusting the water level by either turning a screw on the water supply assembly on some models, or by lowering the float ball or float coupling on the water supply stem assembly. If none of these seem to help, new inserts for tanks are easy to replace and relatively inexpensive.
the salt in use should water softener salt and nothing else
there is water added to the salt crystals up to the overflow hole
during regeneration that salty water (Brime) is drawn into the unit and upon finishing the process that reserve is refilled for the next time
there is little salt actually used during the regeneration process ( around 4 regenerations to a 25 kg bad )
That is normal in the operation of a water softener.
The water soaks the salt to liquefy it so it has salt water to flush the resin to make it let go of the lime deposits.
That is over simplified but is working like it is suppose to.
(Problem 1) if you can see the water running in the bowl it's a good chance that the flappers warn. you'll have to look at the angle where the light hits the water. The water will be rippling where the top of the water meets the inside of the bowl edge. For more info on how a toilet works = http://www.aplumbers.com/residential/toilet solution 1 1. tank the tank lid off.2. flush, the rubber thing that comes up and allows the water to go to the bowl is the flapper 3. remove 4. replace that should fix it.
problem 2 it could be the water levels to high. (solution 2) 1. tank tank lid off.2. if the waters flowing over the long tube in the center and down then the water level is too high3. adjust the level either it will have a ball **** or a float in either case a ball **** adjusts by a screw on the fill valve. the float has a either a metal rod w/ a pinch clamp or a plastic long screw type thing.4. adjust water level .5. lift the flapper to allow a little water out til fill valve kicks on then release handle til valve stops .6. just keep re adjusting til you get the water level right there should be a molded in line for the level on the back of the tank.
Not necessarily.....monitor the level....if continues to rise,then an adjustment may be required.....many salt tanks have water higher than the salt level at different levels as a normal condition.
On most bikes, the fuel level sensor is inside the tank and basically is a dampened float. The entire assembly could be accessed beneath the tank and would be connected by a single connector with two terminals. This pair of wire would then go to the instrumentation/cluster to trigger the fuel level gauge or in your case low level sensor. Often the connector would become loose or the terminals corroded. The sensor inside the tank could be tested with a continuity tester (DVM/VOM)
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
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