WHAT ARE THE FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETTINGS OF NISSAN SERENA C24 OF 1999 JAPANESE ASSEMBLED CAR? VEHICLE HAS EXCESSIVE INNER SHOULDER TYRE WEAR THOUGH SUSPENSION SYSTEM WAS CHECKED AND SAID TO BE IN PERFECT CONDITION.

Hi,

the tire wear can also be due to a tire not having enough air within itself. So, you might want to use a pressure gauge to check all of the air-pressure values for each tire and pump then to an equal pressure if they are not the same. Then, you might work with a local mechanic to get your golf car tires aligned properly.

Thank you.

You need the alignment jig. Your tires are standard spec.

http://www.jltechno.com/en/alignment_specs.php?brand=NISSAN&ModelName=NISSAN%C2%A0SERENA%C2%A01.6/2.0&ModelID=614556

https://www.google.com/search?q=specs+for+front+wheel+alignment+on+a+2008+Nissan+Serena+C25+with+195%2F65%2F15+tires

..
..

It should be possible to gain a rough idea of the problem from the tyre wear.

Choppy scalloped type wear suggests defective shocks or excessive wheel imbalance.

Wear of both shoulders or edges of a tyre or the centre of the tread indicates incorrect tyre pressures.

If both tyres are displaying a similar wear pattern on the same inside or outside shoulder indicates incorrect toe setting.

If one tyre has a shoulder that is wearing it indicates an incorrect camber angle.

If both tyres are wearing differently the problem is likely to be a combination.

The rear alignment of some cars is adjustable and slight misalignment can be corrected but often rectification comes down to replacing parts or even using a body jack to move mounting points.

I suggest you book your car in for a 4-wheel alignment check.

Bent wheel, defective tyre, wheels out of balance, alignment and uneven tyre wear, defective or worn shock absorbers, excessive wear or lash in the steering/suspension components, binding front brake(s), front brake discs warped or excessive axial runout...

Most commonly it is wheel imbalance that is the culprit.

Yes the rear wheels can be aligned. They usually align them to the front wheels in a 4 wheel alignment situation. What you probably have is called excessive Negative camber.
Here is an image that can help show you what your vehicle is doing to the tires.
wheel-alignment
This also all depends on if the vehicle does not have damaged suspension parts. Though having both wheels doing the same thing makes me think it is an adjustment or an over weighted vehicle problem.

take your car to a tyre supplier & ask them to check your wheel alignment and you tyre tread for wear

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

If it is a tire related howl you are getting as well as the vibration through the steering wheel once you hit about 60 mph there is a number of things you need to do.

1. If you have not had a wheel alignment carried out on the vehicle in the last 6 months then have it done at a reputable suspension specialist (not a tyre dealer). Check your front tires for wear pattern in any event as uneven wear on the tyre is a sure sign of poor alignment. Bad alignment can also contribute to vibration problems. I will guarantee you that when you get the alignment checked it will be out. I am not sure if the rear alignment is adjustable on your model but if it is you will in fact need a 4 wheel alignment. (REFER point 7 also)

2. When the alignment and other necessary front end work is done check to see if the problems persists..

3. I assume your vehicle has the steel rims fitted with the plastic wheel cover. Remove the covers on the front wheels and check for the vibration. If it disappears then the out of balance condition is caused by the covers. (This would not explain the tyre howl though).

4. Remove both front wheels (clean them) and check for damage to the rims on both sides including outside scuffing. (Check tyres also.)
If the steel rim is bent or warped it will not run true and you will get vibration and the tyres will tend to be noisy on the road. It is not always easy to identify a warped steel rim from a visual check. Spinning the wheel on a wheel balance machine should normally show this up though.
If you have alloy wheels fitted these tend to crack and break rather than bend or warp.

5. Out of balance wheels.

It is possible for a wheel to be so badly manufactured that no amount of balancing on a tyre balance machine will fix it. This is a particular problem with cheap alloy wheels but even good quality wheel manufacturers will occasionally let a bad alloy wheel slip past their quality control .

6. Tyres.
If you buy budget tyres you are generally buying poor performance and potentially poorly constructed tyres. Tyres can be produced with inbuilt heavy spots that will make them impossible to properly balance. You will forever have a balance problem (and hence vibration) with such tyres. A good manufacturer will not allow such tyres to slip through quality control. Others are much less fussy. It is always a bad decision to purchase tyres in the lower price ranges.
In your case it is quite possible that if your wheels are ok the tyres are badly constructed and it is not possible to balance them properly. (This would not explain the tyre howl though).

7. Given the age of your vehicle you should have the front suspension and steering components inspected. It is possible that wear in critical components could be the source of the problem. When you take the car to the suspension specialist for the wheel alignment you need to have the front end fully checked over first and any problem areas attended to.

Without test driving and pysically inspecting the vehicle it is not possible to identify the source or sources of the problems. My best estimate is that there are significant wear problems in front end components and that your front end aligment is also out.
However , I hope this helps.

Brad

1. It's hard to say without looking at the vehicle (and test driving it) but more than likely the front end is badly out of alignment. ( If the car has been in a significant front end accident and badly repaired then this could also be a source of the problem as the alignment may not be capable of being properly set).

2. The first thing to do is take the car to a specialist suspension and steering shop and have the wheel alignment checked and adjusted to factory specs. Normally this is not expensive for a straight forward alignment but price depends on the shop. A good suspension shop will also identify if there are any wear problems with the steering or suspension that need attention

3. Older drivers sometimes frequently hit kerbs when parking their cars. This will throw out the front wheel alignment every time (and damage tyres) so it must always be avoided. Scrubbed.scuffed tyre side walls are an indication of this as well as scratched wheel rim edges.

4. Some drivers never check tyre pressures. Low tyre pressures will cause much greater tyre wear as there is more friction. (It will also make steering heavier, place undue stress on the steering components, cause the car to handle badly and result in much higher fuel consumption).
The lady needs to ensure her car has at least 32 lbs pressure in both front tyres and at least 30lbs in the rear (which carries less weight). The pressures must be set with COLD tyres. Manufacturer optimum spec tyre pressures are usually set for comfort. These can be safely exceeded by a few pounds. It is far safer (and more economical) to run slightly higher pressures than a setting that is too low. (A good tyre will run all day with 38-40 pounds pressure and 36-38 is quite safe).

5. Worn out shock absorbers will also contribute to abnormal tyre wear. 70000 miles of average driving will see out a set of shocks. (Personally I would not leave them that long as the factory shocks are generally of average quality on this type of car)..

That's the best I can do Brad without seeing the car so I hope this helps some. Hopefully a good wheel alignment will fix the problem but make sure the tyre pressures are kept up as well. If the shocks are worn out they will also need to be replaced if the car is to be roadworthy.

Cheers Sean

Uneven tyre wear can only really be caused by either worn suspension or steering components, or wheel alignment angles incorrect. The best way to check this out is to get a wheel alignment carried out by a reputable specialist, as they will (or certainly should) go over your suspension and steering first to make sure there are no faults before they reset the wheel alignment. The other thing to note is that if the uneven tyre wear is bad enough the wheel alignment won't fix the wear problem, just slow it down.
The shimmy could be caused by a couple of things (driveshaft out of balance, tyre fault, wheel balance) but the best thing to do initially is get the wheels balanced first and see if that fixes the problem, and then go from there.
The same company should be able to both the alignment and balance, and these jobs should both be done periodically (at least whenever you replace tyres) to improve tyre life and make the vehicle easier and nicer to drive.

Hope this helps,
Mark.