How do I remove and install new motor diverter valve?

It's not your wires faulty.
Is the valve installed the right way.
When diverter valve is powered will pump water over bowl.
Your motor controller board may be faulty,
And need diverter driver parts replaced.
Set you machine to Traditional wash only to bypass
Eco active filling that users diverter valve.

Is the valve installed the right way.
When diverter valve is powered will pump water over bowl.
Your motor controller board may be faulty,
And need diverter driver parts replaced.
Set you machine to Traditional wash only to bypass
Eco active filling that users diverter valve.

51.(00110011) Diverter Valve Fault
The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the recirculation phase of the wash cycle. Water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Primary Source:
Action:
Diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve and check for blockages as well as checking that the hinge mechanism on the valve hasn't broken. Remove the hinge from the solenoid and check that the flap is free to move. Check that water hasn't been sprayed onto the valve from an external source and caused the solenoid to blow.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall,
then measure the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator. If a reading of 110/230V is achieved, the motor controller has failed due to a valve fault and both will need to be replaced.

You have got the valve in back to to front.
you would get fault code 51 soon having it like that.
(00110011) Diverter Valve Fault
The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the recirculation phase of the wash cycle. Water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Primary Source:
Action:
Diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve and check for blockages as well as checking that the hinge mechanism on the valve hasn't broken. Remove the hinge from the solenoid and check that the flap is free to move. Check that water hasn't been sprayed onto the valve from an external source and caused the solenoid to blow.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall,
then measure the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator. If a reading of 230V is achieved, the motor controller has failed due to a valve fault and both will need to be replaced.

51. (00110011) Phase 5 ECO - Recirculation Fault
The product has detected that it is losing water during recirculation.
Primary Source - Diverter Valve Wiring
Action - Check diverter valve harness is correctly fastened to diverter valve. Check flying lead
in motor controller, and connection to valve next to drain pump.
Secondary Source - Diverter Valve
Action - Check diverter valve resistance. If open circuit (nominal is 1500 ohms) replace
diverter valve. During recirculation, check that water is being recirculated back into the bowl,
and that no water is coming out of drain hose. If there is some water coming from the drain
hose, then the diverter valve could be faulty, or it could be jammed with a foreign object.
Replace diverter valve.
Tertiary Source - Motor Controller
Action - The diverter valve drive circuit may be at fault. If the primary and secondary checks
pass inspection then replace the Motor Controller.
52. (00110100) Phase 5 ECO - Recirculation Fault
See fault code 51.

I have experienced the same diverter motor leaking problems. I have the whirlpool gold with the diverter motor (w10155344). I bought the unit new 4 years ago. The fix is remove the the two screws that hold the diverter motor and pull the motor. You will find why its leaking is because the rubber seal was installed up side down from the factory. The seal and motor should have calcium and corrosion build up from all leaking. No need to buy new parts. Clean the rubber seal with CLR very carefully, as you will notice a deep groove that has a spring around the inner part, use a tooth pick to clean the corrosion out of the deep groove. After a thorough cleaning, apply thoroughly with vaseline for rubber velocity, be sure to wipe off excessive vaseline. The diverter motor can be cleaned by separating the clips with out breaking tabs that hold it together, be sure to clean the corrosion off the wire connection and the little board it connects to on motor. When installing the seal, slide it down the motor shaft with the deep groove face down it should slide into the lip at the bottom and seat nicely, be sure to clean that area as well with CLR. Install the motor, be sure to clean with CLR where the shaft goes into the hole. That took care of the problem for me. Thanks

Error code 51 usually means a faulty diverter valve. Try and run a wash cycle, and observe the drain hose. If water comes out, the diverter valve should be fine, if no water comes out you should take your diverter valve out and check for debris, or continue to read through the following possibilities of why your washing machine is acting up, and the actions to take.

1. Diverter valve
Action - Check diverter valve continuity. If open circuit, replace diverter valve.

2. Motor Controller Board (drive circuitry blown).
Action - Replace Motor Controller Board
3. Diverter valve harness/connectors.
Action - Replace wiring harness

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

having found a circuit diagram, realised that the divertor valve was electrically operated.i unplugged this then unclipped the motor from the valve body,the diverter valve is spring loaded and once i'd removed the motor the spring raised the valve to divert water through the dhw heat exchanger,giving us hot water but no heating, if i refit the motor the problem comes back heating no dhw.ordered new motorised valve assembly £30 next day order .
this was a simple fix without having to drain the system down.

I would check the house thermostat(and its wiring to the indoor unit), and if it's OK then check the heat transfer fluid diverter valve inside the indoor unit (should be sending the hot fluid through the big radiator (air exchanger)) until the surface temperature of the radiator is approximately 130 degrees F, then the fan control operates and the fan starts to blow hot air through your ductwork. My HTM is 26 years old and I've had many opportunities to "hone" its operation...