How to remove excess grease from Titan - Cars & Trucks

I'm not really familiar with the Titan, but if Nissan has followed all the other manufacturers that I am aware of that make light duty vehicles, there are no lubricating points you can service with a grease gun. At one point in time, years ago, the ball joints, tie rods ends, idler arms drag links and even the control arms had grease fittings or plugs you could unscrew and install to put grease fittings in. Maybe a few manufacturers still do, but I haven't seen any late model vehicles so far with that option. They are all sealed and if a boot is damaged, there goes your grease! I have an old 1970 Datsun 521 pick up that has 21 points in the front end you can put a grease gun to.

bearing failure occurs mainly from several things .1 will be excessive preload ( over tightening the nut or missing spacer between bearings. 2 will be incorrect grease . 3 will be excessive amount of grease ( excessive grease will overheat the bearing and together with excessive preload will cause quick failure. 4 unbalanced wheels and faulty cv joints cause brinnelling which destroys the bearing Personally I would look for a missing spacer between the bearings or an incorrect size spacer.

Here's a link to the lower ball joint,it tells you about a fitting to be greased,as you see the ball joint has a hole at threads where greasing fitting will be.It will be best to jack up and remove tire to grease,look for other grease fittings,wipe up excess grease.Also check ball joint for wear,may need replacing.

Just remove the wheel/tire, then remove the dust cap, remove the cotter pin and then remove the nut that holds the brake drum/hub assembly onto the spindle. Then remove the grease seal on the backside of the hub and remove the bearing. Wipe them off, inspect them for discoloration and flaking of the rollers, if good then just pack new grease into the bearings and re-install the bearing into the hub and install a new grease seal, then place the hub/drum back on the spindle and install the outer bearing and the nut, tighten to spec and install the outer nut cotter pin keeper thingy. bend the cotter pin and cut off the excess so the dust cap will fit on and tap it into place. Re-install wheel/tire and torque lugs to spec.

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Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
2. Remove the wheels.
   
3. Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
   
4. Remove the hub grease cap.
   
5. Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
   
7. Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
   
8. Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
   
9. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
    

To install:

1. Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
   
2. If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
   

If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.

1. Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
   
2. Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
   
3. Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
   

Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.

1. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
   
2. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
   
3. Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
   
4. Install the new cotter pin.
   
5. Install hub grease cap.
   
6. Install brake drum or disc.
   
7. Install the wheels.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

Depends on the vehicle...some have no serviceable joints. If you're under the car, and you see grease fittings on things like tie rod ends, and ball joints, just take your grease gun in hand and give each one 3 to 5 pumps of the ol' gun, and you're lubed. In reality, the rubber boot under most serviceable fittings will expand a little, and then make a popping noise as excess grease begins to ooze out. It's usual, and that sound and/or seeing excess grease coming out away from the grease fitting are your clues that you have applied enough grease. You'll wanna be systematic about it, looking for each fitting on each side. Vehicles are sometimes asymetric, having one more to one side than the other, but usually involves a steering component, and should be considered "in the center", while the others remain "paired" left and right. Once out from under the vehicle, (or from underneath, if you're able to reach) check the top of each A-arm too (there's an upper and lower on each side) by reaching over/around the top of the front tire, and feeling for a "zerk"/grease fitting there too. These usually point up. Wipe up excess grease and repeat every couple of oil changes. It ain't rocket surgery, so don't be afraid to jump in there.

if you have alloy wheels, it is common that there is a reaction with the alloy and cast metal , causing the wheel to really stick tight to the hub. You need to knock the wheel off with a big hammer, possibly a sledge hammer. Hit it from the inside on the rim, this should brake the bond and you should be able to remove the wheel. Please do this in a safe manner, use an axle stand to support the car. once the wheel is off, do what you must and when refitting, clean the hub area where the wheel sits and use a smear of copper slip or vaseline or grease , to stop the same thing happening again. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES put any grease on the wheel studs/nuts or bolts
Hope this helps

You will need a balljoint install and removal tool which you can rent at autozone to press the old out and press in the new one.grease it and then have the front end aligned

The jag 6 cylinder does emit white smoke on start up generally, its condensation being burnt. However, if it is excessive, you should check to see if you are losing coolant. Then its a whole new ball, game. Black smoke indicates excess fuel being burnt or lack of it , ishould say and blue smoke indicates oil burning.
Hope this helps

IF YOU ARE TURNING HARD THEN GREASE YOUR STEERING STOPS
you will see a wear mark on the knuckle and lower control arm just wipe some grease on these spots