My 9N is having trouble starting. It turns over fine but seems to be flooding. When it finally sputters to a start, it takes a while to run smooth. Also the idle seems to be fast and there is no change in engine speed until the throttle is almost half way down.

When was the last time that the carburetor was stripped and cleaned? Also have you checked the fuel filter? Finally, the problem seems to come and go as the engine is run (and it gets hot) check that the fuel line and any electrical cables are well away from the hot engine as far as is possible.

Unlikely it's flooded, but I did have a similar problem with my car, and replacing the temperature sensor fixed it.

try to give it a little more gas it sputters an back fires! In the first place your not giving it more gas unless it running ! If just cranking all your doing is letting more air in . Your vehicle has electronic fuel injection , not a carbuerator . Till the computer see's a RPM over 300 rpm , it's going by programming installed in the PCM - engine computer . It sputters an back fires because of a lean condition , low fuel . When starting a fuel injection engine you don't touch the throttle pedal . And if you were to push it to the floor and hold it , the computer goes into clear flood mode. If the vehicle were flooded that is what you would want to do .
P0320 OBD II Trouble Code
You may have O2 sensor problem or a map sensor or coolant temp . sensor . Your best take it an have a qualifiedd repair shop diagnose it .

i had a 1984, that did the same thing. it turned out to be a bad vaccuum connection on the intake. have you checked all these lines?

first you have to do tune up. fuel filter,spark plugs,air filter,clean trottle body ,trottle plate,
it's hard to say like that but it seems fuel pump relay or fuel pump have pressure test check.catalytic converter to.

I had this puzzler too! Turned out the problem is caused by the fuel-bowl needle valve. It may look OK but looks are deceiving. It gets a coating on the tip that causes a poor seal ... poor enough to allow fuel to flood the engine after a short run time. The flooded engine dies, but restarts OK after a delay that clears (cooks off) the excess fuel that flooded/killed the engine. SOLUTION: Remove the needle valve and carefully wipe and clean the tip with a white cloth soaked in solvent (gas is OK). The cloth will show the deposits that cause the problem. Carefully re-install the needle valve and float parts, start the engine, confirm that it runs OK and continuously. Simple fix .... puzzling problem.

change the fuel filter

The computer should reset itself after 100miles so that all of the systems recalibrate themselves to work properly after the battery is disconnected. If the engine was flooded it will start rough and may day when close to idle until it has completely burned off all of the flooded fuel. If there was any other fluid that reached into the engine ie.. water starter fluid which you SHOULD NOT use on a rotary engine and if you feel you must pease only use a very small amount one or two sprays, the car will run rough until whatever it is burns out. By 200miles you should be running smooth again.Iif there are any warning lights remaining on you will need to troubleshoot those and go from there.

OK, fast! Check the exhaust for rotten egg smell and pressure. Exhaust should stop immediately when engine is turn ed off