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Don't know how to connect wiring to selector switch.

I have a GE A/C window unit model AGDS824DBXHI in which I bought a new selector switch and I can not remember how to connect the wires back up. The selector has 4 connectors at the top and 1 at the bottom. Can you tell me which color wires go where?

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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chillmaster
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: Manual Thermostat replcaement with Programmable Digital unit.

Hopefully there are markings on the old t-stat as to what terminal is what.
on the honeywell 8000 use the heat pump labeling and then the standard wiring would be
R- red
AUX-white
Y- yellow
B- O/B
C- black
G- green
There should not be a bare wire, it probably just has the insulation stripped back way too far.
You should probably open the furnace and compare the terminal label in the furnace to the wire color. normally yellow and blue pass through the furnace and are wire nutted to wires going to the outdoor unit. In the furnace the white wire will connect to the w or w1 terminal. also, you will need to set the Honeywell stat to have the following parameters.
170-7
190-1
200-0
other parameters that I did not specify, you may read the manual and make your own decision but I recommend factory settings for the other parameters

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

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  • 4234 Answers

SOURCE: New speakers to an old (1960s) record player

It is difficult to say with 100% confidence because the pictures are out of focus, but it looks like you have just a regular turntable. The wire connections you show are the bridge between the tonearm and the external RCA style cables. The extra wire (#5) is the ground wire. You should be able to connect this to any receiver that has a phono input.

For confirmation, can you update this with the model number of the turntable? That will allow me to confirm what I have stated above.

Thanks,
Dan

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: need pin out info for aqua vu 4 pin connector

I figured it out:

Here goes: There are 4 wires inside the Aqua Vu cable that runs to the underwater part of the cam.

Red = Hot or 12 volt power from battery postive (red) terminal

Black = Ground - ground to battery negative terminal

White= Video input (or center of video coax)

Green= Infrared lighting control, if you ground the green wire against the black/ground, you will see

that it switches ON the infrared or "Christmas" lights. Simply put a switch on the green wire after you ground it, so you can switch your IR's on and off.



Posted on Jan 07, 2009

map9966
  • 2351 Answers

SOURCE: Connecting front panel wiring to INTEL 845GRG Motherboard

Hello davideiker1, the Intel D845GRG MB manual is shared with another Intel board. (D845GBV MB). Go to this Intel site & download the D845GRG manual; http://support.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d845grg/sb/cs-008873.htm You'll need Adobe reader to view the manual. Download Adobe from this link; http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/
See page 9 for motherboard layout.
The front panel connectors are shown on page 68, see item C.
On page 69 is, Table 31 shows the pin assignments for the front panel header. Front Panel Header (J9G1).
Pin 1 is power for the hard disk drive led, pin-3 is negative for the hard disk drive. Wire colors coming from the case are important. Look at all of the front case wires. The common color for each 2-pin connector will be ground. In most cases the ground wire is white, except for the internal speaker. Ground for the speaker is normally black. (This motherboards speaker is built into the MB, no hook up is needed).
Pin number 2 is positive for the case power led which lights up as green. Pin 4 is negative for the power led.
The reset switch is a bit different. Pin 5 is negative & pin 9 is positive, however if your case uses a two pin connector than connect pin 7 as ground & pin 9 for positive. The On/Off switch, pin 6 is positive & pin 8 is negative.
If this manual is not what you see on the MB, please advise.

Good luck davideiker1!
Need more information/questions post here.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Input, comments are welcomed.
Mike

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 587 Answers

SOURCE: connecting a motor starting capacitor

New Capacitor

herm start on the compressor
fan start on fan motor
c run or power to both compressor and fan

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Float switch on my Dishwasher broke and no water was flowing into unit.Replaced with GE replacement switch, but trips the breaker.Old switch doesn't trip..but doesn't work.


I would suggest checking the wire placement on the new unit as for the breaker to trip indicates that the power wire is connected to a ground point and shorting out
Talk with the service agent as to a correct connect schematics for the part

Jan 20, 2016 | GE Dishwashers

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Ge ptac unit model az32h15d3bm2


if the compressor is NOT running you have problem with this devices:
Compressor Overload and/or relay Thermostat (Open thermostat) Burnt wiring Bad selector switch Capacitor test any devices.
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May 09, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

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Wiring schematic for white-westinghouse window air conditioner/heater selector switch


I'm willing to bet that the heater is grounded. Probably burnt up the original switch, heater wasn't getting power, therefore not tripping the breaker. Now the switch works, heater gets power and immediately trips breaker. Unhook the switch and tape the wires, reset breaker and try in heat and cool. If no problems it's likely the heater.

Apr 20, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

It wont drain or spin


If your washer wont drain or spin, You need to check 3 components on the machine to be sure that it is working fine. The selector switch, the clutch assembly and the drive motor.
Make sure that the selector switch on the control panel, if there is one, is set properly. Check to ensure the button has been pressed all the way in. If it is, then try testing the switch. If it has failed, it will need to be replaced.
To test the switch:
  1. Before you begin to test your washer's selector switch, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
  2. A switch is a mechanism that can make, break, or change the connections in a given electric circuit. Washing machine selector switches determine which cycle is to be used. Many selector switches can be as much as six or even eight inches long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch.
  3. Remove the cycle selector switch from unit. It will most likely be secured to the unit's frame with a few screws. The terminals extending from the body of the switch are grouped in pairs of two, one group of terminals for each button. Each group must have its wires removed for testing. Carefuly remove the wiring harness leads from the first pair of terminals of the switch. Do not pull on the wire itself. Needle nose pliers may be needed to remove the wire from the terminal. Replace the wires to the terminals before you move on to the next pair of terminals.
  4. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Set your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. Touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale.
  5. You are going to test one button at a time. Push in on the button of the switch terminals that you are testing. Touch an ohmmeter probe to each terminal. The ohmmeter reading should change from infinity to zero ohms. Keep each probe in contact with its terminal and press in on a different button, releasing the first button. The ohmmeter reading should go back to infinity. Replace the wires to the terminal and repeat these steps for each pair of terminals of the selector switch.
  6. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective cycle selector switch that will need to be replaced.
To replace the selector switch, please follow the steps below:
  1. Before you begin to test your washer's selector switch, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
  2. A switch is a mechanism that can make, break, or change the connections in a given electric circuit. Selector switches determine which cycle is to be used. Many selector switches can be as much as six or even eight inches long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch.
  3. Remove the selector switch from the unit. It will most likely be secured to the door frame with a few screws. The terminals extending from the body of the switch are grouped in pairs of two, one group of terminals for each button. Each group must have its wires removed for testing. Carefuly remove the wiring harness leads from the first pair of terminals of the switch. Do not pull on the wire itself. Needle nose pliers may be needed to remove the wire from the terminal.
  4. Attach the wires to the terminals of the new switch. Secure the new switch to the washing machine. Feel free to use the screws from the original switch. Restore power to your washer and run it through a cycle to make sure it is functioning as it should.
Not all washing machines use a clutch assembly. Given that it is such a complicated component, you should have a qualified appliance repair technician examine and repair it for you.
Finally check the drive motor. Many different brands of washing machines contain a two-direction drive motor. These two-direction drive motors turn in one direction for one wash cycle, and in another direction for a different cycle. Though it is uncommon, it is possible for the drive motor to work fine in one direction, while remaining completely inoperable in the other direction. Even if your washer's drive motor works fine in one direction, you will have to replace the entire motor.
To test the drive motor:
  1. Disconnect the power source to your washer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
  2. Locate your washer's motor. There will be to wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
  3. Now check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any reading on your meter from this test.
If your washer's motor fails either of these tests, you will have to replace it.
To replace the washer motor:
  1. Disconnect the power source to your washer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
  2. Locate your washer's motor. There will be two wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. The wires will be held in place with metal slip on connectors. Firmly grasp and then pull on these connectors to remove the wires. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  3. Depending on your model, your motor could be secured to the washing machine with any number of screws. Remove all the screws before you remove the motor. There may also be a spring present to help secure the motor to the machine. Remove the screw before removing the motor, but be sure to replace it after the new motor is in place.
  4. Discard used motor and insert new one in its place. If yours is a model that makes use of stabilizing spring, put it back in place now. Secure the new motor to the machine with screws, if you removed any from the old motor. Reconnect the motor's wiring harness.
  5. Restore power to the unit. Run your washing machine through a cycle to make sure it is functioning as it should.
Hope this information was helpful

Jan 14, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

2 Answers

I have a 1999 Jeep TJ. My heater recently stopped blowing any air. I have changed the heater resistor and heater fan/motor. Still nothing. I have checked all fuses....what now....


Hello Tom,
This problem can be trouble shot by checking: The fuse. Are you 100% sure it is good? Get a new one unless you are sure. You said you replaced the resistor but still check it again to be sure it did not cook recently. It will appear crusty,melted carbon deposits. If you bought a good NEW heater motor check it again by getting or making some cheap jumper leads and by unplugging the heater connector under the hood, connect one of the leads to the battery then to one of the posts of the heater. Connect the other jumper to to the other post and to the connector on the motor. It should whirl around and scare the heck out of you it you get the polarity right : ) now, onto something more fun and where I think your problem is. Your control panel.... Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the screws from your face plate/facia/dash moulding covering your stereo/climate control panels. Screws located under eye glass basin,in back of cigarette ash bin and below I think. It pops off and exposes the screws to your climate control module. 4 screw/nuts allow you to pull out your climate module box. Check your connections. Most likely, your selector switch is melted. Perhaps even the harness that plugs into it is melted too. Replace the blower selector switch (small screw removes it) with a new one. Autozone carries them. If your wiring is toast, make a drawing of your color wires BEFORE you cut them free (what post on the switch the wire plugged onto by aligning the plug orientation to the post orientation "mated connections") and close to the connector as possible making sure the wire is good. Get some heavier gauge wiring and splice in and solder neat and strong extensions onto the cut wires. While you are at your auto store, pick up the appropriate female plug in connectors to fit over the blower speed selector pins. Solder these onto your extensions as well and liquid tape all bare wiring. Plug them onto the correct plug to the blower motor switch. YOUR VERY DETAILED DRAWING that you made. When I did this, I made my wire extensions about 8 inches long so I had plenty of room to solder and work. Check your connections,tape them to avoid shorts and use liquid tape on the blower speed connections if there is bare wire. Turn your vehicle on run through your selector speeds. You should also replace your RELAY. It is located on psngr side under glove box. Buy a good one. Replace this even if it appears to be working as they can get worn and as your motor gets worn, allow extra juice to backfeed and kill your heater components again. I hope this helps. If all of this fails your wiring harness may be cooked but I think this is your blower speed selector switch. I will be on here to check on you the next few days to see if you need any more help. Let me know how things turned out so I can help you more if needed. This is a very common problem with this model. Take care.

Jan 05, 2011 | 1999 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

It seems as if the thermostat for the oven is not working.


GAS UNIT:ELECTONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE .(IF ELECTRONIC IGNITION, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE PLUG FOR YOUR STOVE IS PLUGGED IN. IF IT IS PLUGGED IN AND YOU CAN'T GET IGNITION, THEN CHECK FOR TRIPPED BREAKER OR BAD PLUG IN OUTLET, OR GFCI RESET SWITCH IS NOT TRIPPED. IF ALL IS OK THEN MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING GAS TO THE UNIT. CHECK SELECTOR KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION OR CRACKS TO MAKE SURE IT IS OPERATING PROPERLY. IF ALL IS OK THEN REPLACE SELECTOR SWITCH,THERMOSTAT IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.)

GAS UNIT:NON ELECTRONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE ALL PILOTS ARE LIT. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GAS COMING TO THE UNIT. IF ALL IS OK, THEN DO THIS:
REPLACE OVEN SAFETY VALVE OR THERMOCOUPLE OR ADJUST THE FLAME HEIGHT AT THE OVEN PILOT. ALSO CHECK OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH FOR CRACKS OR PROPER OPERATON. CHECK THE SELECTOR SWITCH 1ST. IF ALL ARE OK THEN TURN OFF GAS TO THE UNIT FROM BEHIND THE STOVE AND REPLACE THE SELECTOR SWITCH, THE THERMOSTAT WIRE IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.TURN GAS BACK ON AFTER REPLACING THE NEW SWITCH AND CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS.

ELECTRIC UNIT:

CHECK THERMOSTAT KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT CRACKED. IF NOT CRACKED , LIFT OVEN TOP AND CHECK FOR LOOSE WIRING. IF ALL IS GOOD, CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON UPPER AND LOWER ELEMENTS. CHECK BY REMOVING ELEMENTS, GET MULTIMETER, WITH ELEMENTS REMOVED, TURN METER TO VOLT/AMPS AND TOUCH RED TEST WIRE TO ONE END OF THE ELEMENT AND THE BLACK TEST WIRE TO THE OTHER END. IF IT READS OR MOVES AT ALL THE ELEMENT IS GOOD. TEST THE OTHER ELEMENT THE SAME WAY. IF ALL IS GOOD, RECONNECT ELEMENTS INSIDE THE OVEN. REPLACE THE ELEMENT. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR VOLTAGE TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH WITH THE METER TO MAKE SURE IT IS GOOD BEFORE REPLACING THERMOSTAT.

Apr 13, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Bought the bike no cancelling unit


yes yuo can call...mak@makesbikes.com,,,they will have a unite for yuo.....cheaper...good luke....yuors mike.

Sep 03, 2009 | 1980 Suzuki GS 750 L

1 Answer

Broken selector switch


TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.

Apr 18, 2009 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

No lights displayed at all and the unit does not turn on. Tryed reseting the circuit breaker


It doesn't work at all If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check these:

Power from the house
Door switch
Wiring
Timer or selector switch
Power from the house Is there power getting to the dishwasher? This can be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired directly to an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall. But at least check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.

Timer or selector switch Although it's uncommon, the timer or the selector switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective part, because neither of these can be repaired.

Mar 31, 2009 | GE GLD4460NSS Stainless Steel Dishwasher

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