Question about Dryers
Runs its gas heats turns off in 1min cleand back vent cleand took apart frount cleand all sounds like thermostat can I oderit on line
Yes you can order it! I ORDER STUFF from Amazon or appliance parts pros .com but if you want the part rite away try tribbles appliance parts they have locations all over baltimore and they will definately have a hi limit thermostat kit in stock for you.THe one I go to is on greenspring drive in timonium
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite
Is the drum spinning, but not heating? Or...is the drum not spinning at all?
First, we'll assume your dryer is spinning, but just not heating. If your dryer vent was clogged as you stated, it is common for the thermal cut-out (TCO) to blow. This is a non-resettable device that acts as a fuse. Once it blows, it has to be replaced. There is also a possibility that the heating element went bad, if the TCO didn't do it's job. To check, you will have to remove the lower panel under the door. There are some screws under the bottom lip of the panel that you will have to remove and then the panel should just drop down and come off. CAUTION: Please UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE servicing anything inside. There are still dangerous voltages present with the dryer turned off.
Now located the heating element. It will be on the right-hand side encased in a heater box. There are two small components mounted to the heater box housing. The one closest to the front of the dryer is the high-limit thermostat. The one farthest to the back is the TCO. The two work in conjunction to help regulate the temperature inside the dryer, as well as, protect the heating element. Locate the two wires coming off the ceramic terminal of the heating element. Unplug these two wires and do a resistance check across the terminal. If the heating element is good, it will read about 9-13 ohms. Now remove the two wires from the TCO and perform a resistance check. The resistance should read 0 ohms (or a short) if good. If the TCO reads infinite (or open) it must be replaced. The same applies the the heating element. If the TCO requires replacement, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, the two components are sold as a set. The reason being that if the heating circuits overheat, there is a strong potential that the thermostat will be damaged as well. Replacing only one of the components can result in having the replace the other a short time later.
Now, if your dryer does not spin at all, you probably have a blown thermal FUSE. There is a difference between the thermal FUSE and the thermal CUT-OUT. The thermal fuse is located on the air blower housing right under the drum, and is a white plastic component. Remove the wires from it and perform a resistance check. It should also read a short if good. If not, it must be replaced.
If you need parts, here are the part numbers:
Thermal Cut-out/Thermostat Kit (part #2821)
Thermal Fuse (part #2923)
Heating Element (part #525502)
You can find all these parts at repairclinic.com, along with the price information & pictorial part index. Just type your model number in the search menu. I hope this helps you. If you need any further assistnace, please post back with comments and let me know.
Posted on Feb 06, 2008
hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the
heater relay causes high current draw and damages the
terminals on the heater relay on the main control board.
check it out..
kindly rate my response..
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore elite dryer no heat
You may want to check if the heating element needs replacing. Most Dryers have 2 heating elements that are found by taking the back off, some of the newer dryers have 3.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
The ignitor may be bad or the thermal fuse may be failed.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Testimonial: "I replaced both works great thanks for the conformation."
Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
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