Loss of Voltage along home wiring circuit.

lights to wires in parallel not series.

However, I can provide guidance on using a basic voltage tester to check for live wires when troubleshooting a light fixture installation.
Using a Voltage Tester:
Non-Contact Voltage Tester:
If you have a non-contact voltage tester, it's a handy tool for quickly identifying live wires without direct contact. Hold the tester close to the wire insulation or the terminal screws, and it should indicate the presence of voltage without making physical contact.
Contact Voltage Tester:
If you have a contact voltage tester, make sure it's designed for the voltage level you're working with (e.g., 120V for residential electrical systems).
Turn off the strength to the circuit on the circuit breaker or fuse box.
Safety First:
Always prioritize safety. Make sure the power is turned off before working on any electrical components.
Test the Tester:
Test the voltage tester on a known live circuit to ensure it's functioning properly.
Check the Wiring:
Once confirmed, turn off the power to the circuit you are working on.
Use the voltage tester to check each wire connected to the light fixture. Verify that there is voltage on the wires.
Neutral and Hot Wires:
Typically, a light fixture will have a hot wire (usually black) and a neutral wire (usually white). Make positive each wires are linked properly.
Ground Wire:
Check for a ground wire and ensure it's properly connected. Some light fixtures may have a green or bare copper wire for grounding.
Switch Position:
Ensure that the wall switch controlling the light fixture is in the ON position.
Bulb Check:
Confirm that the light bulbs in the fixture are working and properly installed.
Circuit Breaker Check:
Double-check the circuit breaker or fuse for the lighting circuit to make sure it hasn't tripped or blown.

I can help... but cannot see your drawing.

Let's get started:
1) By code, the microwave? should be on dedicated circuit
2) You have 4 cables that enter the box.
3) Only 1 cable will be Hot and Neutral from breaker box. You must identify this cable first.
Here is drawing:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Pantry-door-switch-1000.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Test each light separately.
Black Hot wire arrives at one screw on the switch. The Hot black wire going to Lights connects to other screw on the switch.
The White Neutral that completes the circuit to lights is connected with other white wires that are covered with wire nut pushed to back of box.
Open up light#1, and the Hot and Neutral arrive from switch box.
The Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6 are also located inside light#1 box.
Check each wire for signs of high heat and burning. Check each wire if the insulation has been sliced, or cut short, or if copper is visible because wire nut does not cover wires correctly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html
Disconnect Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6, so switch is only turning on light#1.
Test if there is a short when turning switch ON.
Then repeat step, so switch turns on light#1 and light#2, but light#3-6 are disconnected.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

What you want to do is against the National
Electrical Code & unsafe

Install a proper box in the ceiling for the
light fixture

Never use exposed cords

The wiring on most paddle / ceiling fans id such:

White = Fan and Light neutral or "common"
Black = Fan line voltage or "hot"
Blue = Light line voltage or "hot"
Green = safety ground

If you are replacing an existing light fixture - be sure to replace the ceiling box with one designed for use with a fan - as per electrical code. If the existing box had only 2 wires (or 3 counting the ground) that connected to the old light fixture and it was controlled from a wall switch, the wiring would be fixture white to ceiling white, fixture black and fixture blue to ceiling black (or red) and fixture green to ceiling bare ground or connected to the metal box. This would power both the fan and light whenever the wall switch was on and the pull chains for each were also on. This is also the preferred wiring for replacement of a pull chain type light fixture (no wall switch present).

If there are other wires in the box that previously were not connected to the old light fixture, using a meter or tester - determine if there is constant power between the ceiling white wire and any of the these other wires (test with the wall switch on and off to be sure). If you do have constant power available, you might consider using the wall switch to control only the light, and using the pull chain to operate the fan (or vice-versa). Simply connect the black (for fan) or the blue (for light) to the "constant power on" wire and that part of the fixture will work by pull chain only - regardless of the wall switch position. If the fan can be shut off by the wall switch, it is very important that the wall switch remain a toggle (or on / off switch), do NOT replace with a dimmer type switch.

If you'd prefer to operate the fan and light completely independently of each other - you can purchase a 3rd party fan & light remote control device for between $30 - $50.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thanks!

Most paddle fans that come with a light kit (or provisions to add one via plug / jack later) provide at least 3 wires (most times 4 though) that will need to be connected to the house wiring. Those wires are:

1) Green, or Green with a Yellow stripe - this is the grounding wire and is connected to the grounded metal junction box or other ground wires.
2)White - this is the neutral wire and is connected to both the fan motor and light fixture.
3)Black - this wire connects to the fan motor. This wire along with the white wire completes a circuit for the fan.
4)Blue - this wire connects to the light fixture. This wire along with the white wire complete a circuit for the light fixture.

Ideally, the junction box in the ceiling has a neutral, ground and both an unswitched power source *and* a switched power source. An unswitched source is always on (regardless of any switch's position) while the switched source is controlled by one or more switch(es) near a door(s). Use a meter or tester to determine which wires are switched (probably black or red) and unswitched (probably black but may be red, too). Label them or orient them in such a way that you'll remember which is which. Turn the power off.

Connect the paddle fan's blue wire to the switched wire, the black wire to the unswitched wire(s), the white wire to the other neutral (most likely white wire(s) and finally, the ground wire to the rest of the ground wire(s). Turn power back on.

Wiring in this way allows the light fixture to be controlled by the wall switch(es) and the fan by the pull chain on the fixture. Turn the wall switch on and pull the chain until the light turns on. You can remove the long chain once the switch turns the light on and off so it is not accidentally shut off at the paddle fan later. Change the fan speed from high to low and eventually off with the chain.

If you only have a switched or unswitched power source in the ceiling, you'll have to connect both the black and blue paddle fan wires to whichever type power you have in the ceiling (switched or unswitched). If you're using a switched sourced, that switch will have to be left on in order for the fan or light to work.

If you have wired in any of these methods already, it could be that the switch for the fixture has failed, and should be replaced with a like-type switch.

I hope this helps!

Do me a favor, prior to reading on any further; did you try pulling (or turning) on the fan chain? As simple as this sounds, I've experienced this before. And I'd rather you try the simple solution first, before opening up the fixture. Okay, if that didn't work - the first TURN OFF the light switch or circuit breaker before working on these fixture's. If you're not well schooled in doing electrical work, I'd advise turning the circuit breaker off along with the wall switch. Now, when you open up your fixture, the black wire should be hooked up to the fan motor(s) lead wire; and the blue wire to your light(s) lead wire. Now, if both your fan and light were working before, then the wires at the fixture (black/motor and blue/light) were wired together. If so, then it could've blown both motor(s)? But I don't believe it did. Now that you've checked everything out, and your ready to turn the fixture back on. Keep the wall switch in the off position. Then go turn on your circuit breaker. If everything holds, then turn the wall switch on. It's done in this manner for safety reason's. Try this, and then let me know how it went. You should be good to go. Good Luck, and feel free to contact me again if you have any problems. Jim

If you could give me the specs on this (voltage and amperage), I can begin to help. Also, I would need to know what the values of the wires in the ceiling are. Meaning...is Black or Red wire's a Hot wire or switch leg. To find this out. First turn off the circuit breaker(s) at your electrical house panel. There could be two circuits, so make sure to have a voltage tester, or a little induction voltage tester that will help determine if power is on or off. Also, turn your wall switch off designated for this fixture. Now, leaving the wall switch off. Make sure to do this with two people. Turn on the circuit breaker. Either the black or the red wire will be hot (unless there's other circuits involved, which I don't think there is). Once you determine your hot wire, write it down. And then turn on the wall switch. Now, the other wire should be hot now. This is your switch leg. The wire that will operate (on and off) your fixture. Beige is most likely your neutral wire, and will go to the white wire(s) at the fixture. And the metal wire is your ground wire, and should go to your bare copper wire inside of your fixture. So now, turn everything back off (including both your circuit breaker and wall switch). So, Hot wire goes directly to your wall switch. It might be easier to hook up your switch leg first, because then the wire left over will go to your switch. So, Hot wire hooks up to wall switch. Other wire coming from switch, hooks up to the other colored wire (switch leg). The beige wire stays at the fixture and hooks up to the white wire(s), and then the bare copper wire splices (connects) to the metal wire from the ceiling. After you have everything wired, and the fixture put back together. Here's how you test it. Leave wall switch in off position. First, turn the circuit breaker back on. If everything is fine, then you turn on the wall switch. Note: If you're able to leave the fixture in the on position prior to turning the wall switch on - do so. That's why if there's any problems, you'll be a safe distance away. And the worst that could happen is that you trip the circuit breaker. Then, you'll have to recheck everything you did, and make sure all your connections are secure. Well, Good Luck to you, and feel free to ask me any further questions you may have. Jim 

First, let me say that if you're not entirely comfortable doing high voltage electrical work, you might want to call an electrician. It's not impossible for you to get hurt or killed or burn down your house. At least be sure to turn of the circuit breaker while you're working on it.

The blacks and whites twisted together are passing through power to other parts of your premises and are always on, so be sure to keep them twisted together. The red is the one that will take power from your light switch and send it to your light fixture.

At the fixture, connect the white to white and red to black, the same as before. At the light switch, connect the black to one side of the switch and the red to the other. When you turn on the switch, it will permit power from the black to travel down the red to the fixture, and from the fixture, the circuit will be completed through the white.

Good luck!