Kawasaki Oil Pump Leak

You have to remove the engine front cover (over timing chain) and remove the oil pan to get the oil pump in and out. You don't have to remove the heads, however.

Removal & Installation

4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L & 6.2L Engines






Fig. Exploded view of the oil pump mounting-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L engines


Fig. Oil pump disassembly-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L engines

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   NOTE
   
   Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the oil pump assembly, cap ends as necessary.
   
   
   
   
   NOTE
   
   The internal parts of the oil pump assembly are not serviced separately (excluding the spring). If the oil pump components are worn or damaged, replace the oil pump as an assembly. Do not attempt to repair the wire mesh portion of the pump and screen assembly.
   
   
   
   
   
   Engine front cover Oil pan Oil pump screen bolt and nuts Oil pump screen with O-ring seal. O-ring seal from the pump screen. Discard the O-ring seal. Remaining crankshaft oil deflector nuts. Crankshaft oil deflector Oil pump bolts
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Oil pump To install:
   
   
   
   
   NOTE
   
   Inspect the oil pump and engine block oil gallery passages. These surfaces must be clear and free of debris or restrictions.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   1. Align the splined surfaces of the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump drive gear and install the oil pump. Install the oil pump onto the crankshaft sprocket until the pump housing contacts the face of the engine block.
   
   
   
   2. Install or connect the following:
      
      
      NOTE
      
      Lubricate a NEW oil pump screen O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
      
      
      
      
      NOTE
      
      Push the oil pump screen tube completely into the oil pump prior to tightening the bolt. Do not allow the bolt to pull the tube into the pump.
      
      
      
      
      
      Oil pump bolts. Tighten the oil pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Crankshaft oil deflector
      
      
      
      
      
      
      
      NEW O-ring seal onto the oil pump screen
      
      
      
      
   
   
   
   3. Align the oil pump screen mounting brackets with the correct crankshaft bearing cap studs.
   
   
   
   4. Install or connect the following:
      
      
      
      
      Oil pump screen Oil pump screen bolt and the deflector nuts. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Oil pan Engine front cover
      
      
      
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Replace the oil ring on the oil filter or get another oil filter.. B4 screw in the oil filter apply some oil to the oil ring..

did you replace the seal on the bolt that holds it on

SOUND LIKE FRONT CRANKSHAFT TIMING COVER SEAL OR REAR MAIN OIL SEAL LEAKING START ENGINE LET IT IDLE SEE IF YOU SEE OIL DRIPPING UNDERNEATH CAR LOOK FOR OIL LEAK AT TIMING COVER OR AT REAR OF ENGINE WHERE REAR MAIN SEAL LOCATED. CHECK ON TOP OF ENGINE INTAKE MANIFOLD AREA WHERE OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR IS.O - RING AT THE OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR WILL CAUSE LARGE OIL LEAK.OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR IS LOCATED WHERE THE DISTRIBUTOR USE TO BE LOCATED.KEEP EYE ON OIL LEVEL IN CRANK CASE.KEEP PLENTY ENGINE OIL ON HAND UNTIL YOU FIX.I WOULD FIND LOCATE PROBLEM QUICK AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE OIL LEVEL GET TOO LOW ENGINE WILL SEIZE UP LACK OF OIL..

Don't bother. Replace the unit.
3.0 liter
The oil pump assembly used on this engine is mounted at the front of the crankshaft. The oil pump also retains the crankshaft front oil seal.

1. Remove the accessory drive belts.
2. Remove the timing belt cover and timing belt. Refer to the timing belt removal and installation procedures in this section.
3. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
4. Remove the oil pump mounting bolts (5), and remove oil pump assembly. Mark mounting bolts for proper installation during reassembly.

To install:

1. Clean the oil pump and engine block gasket surfaces thoroughly.
2. Position a new gasket on pump assembly and install on cylinder block. Make sure correct length bolts are in proper locations and tighten all bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
3. Install the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt. Recheck engine timing marks.
4. Install the timing belt covers. For more details, refer to the timing belt cover installation procedures.
5. Install the accessory drive belts.
6. Refill the crankcase and start the engine.
7. Check for correct engine oil pressure and for any oil leakage.

3.3 and 3.8 liter engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the dipstick.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely. Drain the oil and remove the oil pan.
3. Remove the oil pickup.
4. Remove the chain case cover.
5. Disassemble the oil pump as required.

To install:

1. Assemble the pump. Tighten the cover screws to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
2. Prime the oil pump by filling the rotor cavity with fresh oil and turning the rotors until oil comes out the pressure port. Repeat a few times until no air bubbles are present.
3. Install the chain case cover.
4. Clean out the oil pickup or replace as required. Replace the oil pickup O-ring and install the pickup to the pump.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Install the dipstick. Fill the engine with the proper amount of oil.
7. Connect the negative battery cable and check the oil pressure. Check for any oil leaks.

for the 3.3 you can rebuild, 3.0 - replace.

Oil Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 22R and 22R-E Engines

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Drain the oil from the engine. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump components on 22R and 22R-E engines
   
   
3. Remove the oil pan.
4. Remove the four bolts holding the oil strainer.
5. Remove the drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
7. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor and its bracket. Support the compressor out of the way with the hoses attached. Do not discharge the system or loosen the compressor lines. Fig. 2: Bolt location identification
   
   
8. Loosen the oil pump relief valve bolt.
9. Remove the five retaining bolts and remove the oil pump assembly with the O-ring.
10. Remove the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Slide the pump drive spline onto the crankshaft. Place a new O-ring in the groove.
12. Clean the threads of the upper retaining bolt of all grease, oil or debris. Clean all the bolts holes.
13. Apply sealant to the first 2 or 3 threads of the upper bolt. Install all the bolts. Tighten each to the correct tightness. Bolt (a): 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); bolts (b) 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and bolts (c) 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
14. Install and tighten the relief valve plug to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
15. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

3VZ-E Engine

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the engine under cover.
3. Remove the front differential.
4. Drain the oil.
5. Remove the timing belt.
6. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
7. Raise the engine slightly and remove the oil pan.
8. Remove the two bolts and nuts; remove the oil strainer and gasket.
9. Insert a drift between the cylinder block and the oil pan baffle plate, cut off the sealer and remove the baffle plate. NOTE: When removing the baffle plate with the drift, do not damage the baffle plate flange.
   
10. Remove the seven bolts, then the oil pump and O-ring. If the pump is difficult to remove, use a small plastic mallet to carefully tap the body of the oil pump. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
    
11. Apply sealer to the oil pump mating surface, running the bead on the inside of the bolt holes. Position a new O-ring in the groove in the cylinder block and install the pump so that the spline teeth of the drive gear engage the large teeth on the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Fig. 3: Do not apply too much sealant on the pump surface, it can block the oil passage
    Fig. 4: Align the pump drive and the pump
    
    
12. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure. Tighten the oil strainer bolts to 61 inch lbs. (7 Nm).

How to change the engine oil. You will need to remove lower part of fairing to access under the engine. There you will find a drain bolt to undo. A large bolt located on the underside of the engine, usualy with an aluminium washer, or O ring. Undo the bolt and catch the oil in a suitable container. This should be done when the engine is warm, as the oil will flow out better. When empty, replace the sump bolt, preferebly with a new washer so it wont leak.
Replace the correct amount of oil back into the bike.
On top of the transfer case will be a plug you can undo by hand, the oil filler, mabey this has a dip stick on it for level. Most Kawasaki also had a site glass for the oil level, on the lowe , side of the engine.

Timing Cover Assembly



Oil Pump
Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove crankcase assembly.
4. Remove crankshaft pulley.
5. Remove timing belt.
6. Remove timing pulley from crankshaft.
7. Remove four fixing bolts from oil filter assembly.
8. Remove oil strainer fixing bolts, remove oil strainer assembly with O-ring.
9. Remove three bolts from oil pipe and O-ring.
10. Remove eight oil pump fixing bolts, then oil pump assembly.
11. Remove sealant from mounting surface of oil pump assembly, cylinder block and take care not to damage mounting surfaces of oil pump and cylinder block.

Hi, if the engine is leaking from underneath, its possibly oil pan gasket/ oil drain plug seal/ oil filter o ring needs replacing. The other leak you describe could be the bottom cylinder head gasket, if so the only solution is to replace it. I have this problem on mine, oil weeping from same area. cost would be about

Since your friend just replaced the timing belt, there wouldn't be a need to replace the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal unless they were leaking.

No, you cannot get to the oil pump unless the crankshaft, lower timing belt cover and belt are removed.

I have the same exact car with the same engine and just replaced the oil pump O-ring and crankshaft seal. I'm a good mechanic, but this is a tedious and time consuming job, but It can be done if you have good mechanic skills.


VERY IMPORTANT.
There is a big chance that the car's engine timing will be off, have someone who is knowledgeable to set the engine timing. If you don't and try to start the car, serious engine damage will probably occur.

ALSO IMPORTANT.
When you get the oil pump off removed all the old O-ring the new oil ring will not stay in place, I used petroleum jelly to keep the ring in place, it's perfectly safe and won't affect the operation of the oil pump.

If your not sure you can do the repair yourself, take it to a mechanic.