I drive the van all day but next day the battery is dead and i have to charge the battery
SOMETHING IS DRAINING IT OVERNIGHT, TRY DISCONNECTING 1 THING AT A TIME SUCH AS ALARM, CENTRAL LOCKING RADIO ETC.
SOURCE: 95 G20 Chevy van: ABS light stays on, pulls right when braking
You actually have two separate problems. The brake pull to the right is indicating the left side brake is not working properly. You will want to remove the left front wheel, collapse the caliper piston and make sure the caliper is floating freely on its mounts.
With the piston collapsed you should be able to slide the caliper inboard and outboard of the rotor. If not, you will want to remove the attachment pins, clean and lubricate the pins. If they are grooved or worn you will have to replace them.
The second issue of the ABS light is indicating the system has detected an electrical sensing or control problem. Take the vehicle to your local Auto Zone or Advance Auto and ask them to scan the vehicle for trouble codes. They will scan it for you at no charge.
Chances are you will find a wheel speed sensor problem at one of the wheels.
Write the codes down and respond back, we can start diagnosing the problem,
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
SOURCE: I have a 93 Chevy G20 VAN G20 with a 4.3L engine
There are three relays all grouped together on the firewall on the passengers side. All three are related to your situated. We can eliminate one of them because you stated that the fuel pump is operating fine. Now that leaves the relay for the ECM(engine control module) this tells the injectors, cold start and run, when and how much fuel to supply and also controls ignition timing and spark advance. The third controls the AC compressor. Now I've got to remind you that I started working on fuel injection systems the day they started failing here in the US around 1972.These were such vehicles as Mercedes, Saab and Volvo. I've worked on every configuration, TBI, MPI, diesel etc.etc. I may on occasion cross one fact with another or mispronounce certain aspect of a system however, These three injectors are where you want to concentrate your efforts. With some finnesse you can swap the harnesses from one to another. If your car runs fine and your AC suddenly does not, then you know that that relay is faulty. Do this until you get your answer. Best of luck my friend, Dana
SOURCE: 2000 astro van Battery and alternater are both new
You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery.
Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt..
Undertake these tests and if you have any questions, email me here:
[email protected]
Dave.
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