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Anonymous Posted on Jan 16, 2014

Can a CPU understand a continuous range of pin voltages?

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4 wheel drive not engaging. No power to switch

Get's voltage signal from the PCM - engine computer ! PCM connector 175B pin # 32 ,pin # 31 is return signal to PCM . This voltage is probably 5volt reference voltage , not battery voltage !
P1781 - 4x4L Switch Out of Self-Test Range Description: The 4x4L switch is an on/off switch. If the powertrain control module (PCM) does not sense low voltage when the switch is on, the DTC sets. Possible Causes:
  • 4x4L harness open or shorted
  • Damaged electronic shift module
Diagnostic Aids: Verify the 4x4L switch cycles on/off. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 308-07A, Four-Wheel Drive Systems.
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3.1b) How to check and fix crankshaft position sensors How to check? If the...

<p><b><span>3.1b) How to check and fix crankshaft position sensors</span></b><br /> <p><b><span><br /></span></b><br /> <p><b><span>How to check?</span></b><span> If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through.<span> </span>If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.</span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><span><span> </span>2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output).<span> </span>One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'.<span> </span>A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.</span><br /> <p><span><span> </span>3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output).One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'.<span> </span>A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.</span><br /> <p><span><span> </span>It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.</span><br /> <p><span><span> </span></span><br /> <p><b><span>How to fix?</span></b><span><span> </span>Check the wiring for continuity and that the electrical connection is clean and secure. Remove the CKP and clean off any dirt build up on the tip.</span><br /> <p><span>If you strongly suspect the crank sensor as being at fault it is a relatively inexpensive device to replace.</span><br /> <p><span><br /></span><br /> <p><span><b>NEXT 3.2) CMP - Cam shaft position sensor</b></span><br /> <p><br /><br /> <span><br /></span>
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Have beeping f68 how do we stop the beeping ????

I appreciate your inquiry, friend!
I understand that your Frigidaire range is displaying an "F68" and beeping. I would recommend performing a reset and you can do that by flipping the household circuit breaker off for roughly ten minutes, which should clear out any miscommunications within your range. If your range continues to display "F68" that could be a high voltage condition. This means that you may have an issue with the voltage coming into your range or your control panel. This is not a simple fix. I would highly suggest consulting with a professional technician for proper diagnosis and repair. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Mar 01, 2015 • Ovens
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The highest vcore voltage on my intel 2500k

Suggest you try an overclocking forum

All I know, is you bump the Voltage up in SMALL increments.
Bump up a small increment, then do a 24 hour burn in.
(Yes. Means computer runs 24 hours straight for the test)

Everything's cool? Then bump the Voltage up another small increment.
Do another 24 hour burn in test.

GO TOO FAR, and things start getting 'bumpy', and eventually system turns off.
GO TOO MUCH at first, and you stand the chance of frying stuff.

Also; the Ram Memory, and expansion slot frequency rate, support changes, when you change the Voltage for the CPU.

You are changing the CPU's front side bus, also. (FSB)

[Frequency Rate = 'Speed'
People understand the term Speed, so they can relate to what is going on.
It is actually a rudimentary term.
Leaves you not exactly knowing what is going on.

A CPU (Processor) has an Oscillator in it. Operates in a frequency rate.
The Front Side Bus (FSB) is measured in a Frequency Rate.
How many Cycles per Second.

Example; CPU operates Up To a maximum frequency rate of 2.4GigaHertz. (2.4GHz)

Means it can operate Up To a frequency rate of 2.4 Billion Cycles per Second.

Mega = approximately 1 Million
Giga = Approximately 1 Billion
Hertz stands for Cycles per Second.

(2400MHz = 2.4GHz)

Also:
YOUR processor. The one you have now.
Was made with a BUNCH of other processors.
Intel tests them, and has a pass test range.

YOUR CPU may have been at the Bottom of that range, who knows?
This means YOUR CPU may not be able to be overclocked, like Harry's down the street; or some guy/gal on the internet.

THEY may have received a CPU that was in the Middle of the pass test range, or towards the Top.

Regards,
joecoolvette
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HP P4SD, its running good with 4 gb RAM, P4 3.0ghz, and a couple sata hd. The problem is the fan output voltage, i havent been able to read the output chassis and cpu cooler pins voltage cause i can find...

"i can find my dmm?" did you mean CAN'T?
"its clearly off", what is off?
the fans are 3 pins,2 are power, one is RPM tachometer.
"it all works fine", so you can boot and run any OS, ?

"the voltage reads +12vdc", where, at fan or PSU?
the fans run off 12vdc, they are DC motors (from outside fan)
if the fan runs slow at 12vdc the the fan is bad or is a low RPM
fan, as some are, bigger fans run slow, for less noise.!

first is the CPU fan it must run full speed, if not the CPU will overheat in seconds and ALL CPU shut them selves (by there selves) this way. so CPU fan is first. what does it do... there....?

then BIOS screens. GOT BIOS UP? and running? with, ESC key pressed>.
let me guess your symptoms
1: PC dead. will not boot.
2: BIOS dead.
3: all fans DEAD,.
4: power switch works and all PSU voltages read right, (seems not)/?
5: if the PSU power wire reads right(DMM), matching the side sticker voltages, and the CPU is dead, the MOBO is dead, or CPU is toasted.


here is a modern PSU, sticker.
see 5 to 10 power lines, see them. all must read correctly
if a fan is dead, then its dead if 12vdc is present on the fan power pins.




psu-dsqaqngzuibs2svxh2bga4t0-2-0.jpg
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Soyo k7v dragon plus motherboard continuous

Hi Jopav1,

At the age of *********** board, I would recommend physically looking at the board, in particular, the large upright capacitors. If the tops are bulging, or have anything leaking out of them, send the board to a recycler, and look for an exact replacement on the used market, or replace with new. I just bought the same board you have today for $25, with AMD 1800 CPU.

At 10 years of age, the battery is probably past due for replacement too. It is a standard CR2032 3Volt battery. If you replace it quickly, you may not loose your BIOS settings.

If you have a volt meter, you can check your power supply voltages. Again, your manual will show what voltages to expect at each power connector pin. A range of +/- .05V is generally allowable on all sources.

Also try unplugging all boards and powering it up. The beep should change to a sequence of 2-1-3-1 beeps, indicating that it's not able to see the video card. If you still only get a repeated long beep, It's possible that the CPU itself may have died. These are also available very cheap at this point. The fact that you are getting a cycling beep indicates to me that the CPU is OK though.

I looked up beep patterns and did not find anything for one long repeating beep for the Phoenix BIOS on your board. There is no mention of them in the Soyo manual either.

Last resort is resetting your BIOS settings to "First Birthday", and try again. This will require you to re-set any manual settings you had set previously (probably 10 years ago). This is done by moving the jumper located between the green LED, and the battery, to the two pins nearest the LED, for a second, and then back to the position nearest the battery.

Good luck
Video Flyer

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Cpu over voltage error

Hi,
This sounds like an incorrect voltage setting in your BIOS setup. Try entering the BIOS setup and selecting default settings which should automatically correct CPU voltages.

Best wishes,
Graemevm
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2answers

Need to know chipset voltages ,found cpu and memory volts but no chipset info. thanks

get your solution from this link
1) i4memory.com/f56/chipset-voltage-1443/
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Gemini range: Back left on range top does not

Check the surface element for continuity.
Check the surface element receptacle for a good contact and voltage..
Check the surface element switch for voltage and continuity.
2helpful
1answer

Sony KV-35V45 CRT tube short, trying to figure out and clear it !!!

On the CRT itself, without the socket connected, you should have continuity (0 ohms) between G1, G1-2 and G1-3. Those 3 pins are Grid 1 and are tied together inside the neck. You should also have continuity (maybe 5 ohms or so) from H1 to H2. Those 2 are connected to the 3 heaters (in parallel). When the set is on there will be 6.3 volts of high-frequency AC power at those pins, and you should NEVER try to pump more voltage to the H pins. If you clear out the continuity between the 2 H pins then you blow open all 3 filaments and the set is garbage. There should NOT be continuity of any kind between G2 and any other pin. If there is then the tube is bad and cannot be fixed. There should also be no continuity at all between any other pins. The good news is that from the voltages you posted, you have a heater-to-cathode short that developes in the green gun when the tube is warm. To remove this short, take a 22uF 250V capacitor and put an alligator clip from the negative lead to ground. Connect the positive lead of the capacitor to the 200 volt boost source and turn the set on, which charges the capacitor. Tap lightly on the neck of the CTR and when the voltage drops on the KG pin, the screen will go quite green and that is when you should take the positive lead of the charged cap and touch it to the KG pin on the tube socket. This should remove the heater-to-cathode short. A 22uF cap has enough charge to clear the short but usually not enough to blow open the filament itself. Using a capacitor larger than 22uF runs the risk of blowing the filament open and you do not want that. It is tricky to get it right because you have to have a charged cap and the tube must short out and you have to get the charge from the cap into the tube before the set shuts itself down. Try that and post your results.
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