Bmw 1.6 8v with 1995 e36

My guess is you blew the motor rebuilt it and never changed the catalytic converter.

I have an 01 525i and it would give me the same hard start, then idle a little and die unless i revved it up a little to keep it going but it still ran shaky.. I scan it and only get a code 44 vent solenoid and sometimes misfire codes. I clear them and it smooths out a little but anyways, getting to the point, depending on what year yours is there is a little fuse pack in there with the dme relay and fuel pump relay. they are stacked one on top of the other, should be 30a,30a,20a,30a,30a. you want to make sure these fuses are good. Even more important then that is to make sure that they are making good connection. Maybe the fuses need to be beefed up or buffered a little bit due to the motor swap(not sure just throwing that out there)... when mine finally died i found one of the above fuses blown. changed the fuse and still no start so i had to go into all the connectors in that area and tighten them up so the fuse would fit nice and snug, after making sure battery was fully charged it started right up and I havent had a problem since.(I think the fuse got loose over time then finally shorted somehow)(these relays/fuses are under the hood, pass side in plenum under cabin air filter) There also should be some in the trunk you would want to double check (corrosion can build up in trunk area) Finally, not having evaluated your car personally, the best I can recommend is to focus on the pass side from under the cabin filter in the plenum to the inside of the car (still pass. side) in and behind the glove box. all it takes is one little pin, just barely losing connection to start all kinds of issues. any info/input from you would be well received. I hope this helps
-Tim

Try to disarm the alarm system first,if that doesn't work,try your spare key,if it works the key is faulty.if this fails,put it on diagnostic machine.,since it can be EWS.

the 5th wire is the coil lead

e36 m3 cab flat battery.i have now fitted a new 1 and my alarm will not work and the car is immobilised.the key fob is black with 1 button in the centre and the car is a 1995 can you help.

are you sure you need the crankshaft position sensor changed. it is at the back of the engine i believe, but.....
check for a wet ecu first... read the note on e36...

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

ok if these are error codes for O2 sensors then don't worry about the post-cat sensor. the pre-cat may affect gas mileage slightly, but won't stop your car. however, my experience says the DME or ECU what ever you want to call it can giive false readings if it gets wet..

are there any performance issue?

you might check the ecu/dme read below

the ecu compartment is under the windshield on the passenger side on E36

you gain acess to it under the hood....
this compartment gets wet, the ecu lays on a flat surface in that
compartment.

the bottom side of the circuit board gets wet and starts corrosion.

remove the ecu, take the bottom plate off, clean the bottom of the circuit
board with alcohol and a soft tooth brush.

you should be able to see the signs of corrosion or conductive build up.

this gunk bridges solder points doing all sort s of wierd things to your
car, including false sensor readings from asc/abs controllers and other
sensors....

all the way to engine failure and worst case burnt and shorted wiring
harness.

I'm on my 3rd ecu, took me and the repair boys a few years to figure this
one out.

BTW: i would get that ecu mounted above that flat surface, use some sort
of standoff to raise it so that it is not laying in the wet.

yes the DME (ecu) needs to be coded to align it with the vehicle.the dme and ews have to be on the same page before the vehicle will start. Support your local bmw dealership

BMW CUTS OUT

A few things to check.

1. Is fuel pump delivering enough fuel.
2. Is injectors clean. Perhaps dirt in fuel. replace fuel filter
3. Air leakage at top air intake of manifold at ICV idle control valve. Two hoses inside this housing prone to perishing.
4. Throttle position sensor faulty.
5. Mass air flow sensor faulty.
6. ICV faulty or dirty. comon fault on older e36.

Havent done it yet but ICV is easy to clean according to internet. instruction available at bmw e36 blog. All off above can be tested by yourself according to manual.