MICROWAVE WAS WORKING FINE, WAS HEATING UP A PLATE OF FOOD AND IT JUST STOPPED. WE THOUGHT IT WAS A FUSE THAT HAD BLOWN, BUT WE REPLACED ALL THE FUSES IT STILL DID NOT WORK. (NO LIGHTS, NO NUMBER PAD, NOTHING IS WORKING). OUR NEXT GUESS IS THE CORD???? ANY SUGGESTIONS? IT NEVER GOT "HOT (SMELLING) AS IF SOMETHING SHORTED OUT, IT ALSO DIDN'T EFFECT ANYTHING ELSE IN THE KITCHEN..NOTHING ELSE STOPPED WORKING.
SEE THE steps and fix it. and diagrams attached.use the DVOM.God bless you
Line Fuse
Every microwave oven has a line fuse. This fuse is designed to blow if too much current is drawn through the microwave circuitry. The fuse can be replaced, but the underlying issue should still be investigated and resolved. Otherwise the new fuse will blow also.
Main Control Board
If the microwave is not working the main control board may be defective. This is not common. When a microwave stops working the problem is usually the line fuse or within the high voltage circuit; either the high voltage capacitor, diode, transformer or magnetron.
Thermal Fuse
If the microwave is not working the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
Thermoprotector
If the microwave is not working the thermoprotector may have tripped. This is a safety device to prevent the microwave from overheating. It can be tested for continuity to see if it's blown
SOURCE: GE microwave oven - just stopped stopped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
NOTE: There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: fuse keeps blowing.
couple questions -
what else is on the circuit,
and what current does the oven need
there are whirlpool over-range models with
1200watts of microwave,
1500watts of convection power, a
60watt bulb and a
375watt fan
over 15amps -20amp circuit needed
if you inadvertantly replaced a higher current fuse with a 15amp fuse, it will blow every time.
the install guide http://www.whirlpool.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZINSTALL/8206589.pdf reccommends 20amp
not a solution, something to check,
SOURCE: Microwave Not Working
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At
our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Where is the 10 amp fuse on my delonghi micro/combo/grill please
Hi, I take it that this is a combi microwave? Some of these have settings on the front to microwave/grill/etc... so make sure its on the right one first!!
If you have selected the correct one then the m/wave does not work it could be several things!
Microwaves run to earth and need diodes to do this if these break down it will not m/wave! It could also be a internal fuse? ( but very unlikley if everything else works) Then you have the Mag or transformer which could be down to! M/waves run on a high power side and a low power side. The low power will not hurt you to much but the high power side will. My advice to uou is not to touch as it could be fatal as these things carry a high charge even when they are unplugged!
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