I even tried boosting with another vehicle, it still won't turn over quick enough to start. Cleaned all wire connections even the ground wire going to the block. The car seems to have a lot of battery power, all the lights and gauges are bright but when I turn the key to start the car it barely wants to turn over ?
Maybe the points need adjusting or check the exhaust at rear and see what tis colour black inside...... may need decarbonising.
SOURCE: 40 amp ignition fuse blew.
The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.
My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:
Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!
I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???
I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!
The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)
I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)
Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.
At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.
SOURCE: 1985 Ford Bronco.....alternator will not charge
MY NA ME IS MAGICBROOM58, HAVE YOU TRIED .. I THINK IT'S ON THE FIRE WALL PASS. SIDE (CILINOID) TAKE THE RBBER OFF THE POS. AND TURN YOUR EGNITION OVER TO THE ON POS. GO BACK UNDER YOUR HOOD AND TAKE A RUBBER HANDLED WRECH?SCREW DRIVER AND CONNECT THE 2 POINTS IF IT TURNS OVER U FOUND YOUR PRBLEM
SOURCE: I have a 98 Plymouth
Honestly, it sounds like starter and battery... It may be worth your efforts to verify the connectors have been cleaned and free of debris. Double check to make sure they are tight.
Also, you could take the starter in and have it bench tested to make sure it is engaging (it did not sound like it was). Most parts stores will do this for free, especially the one where you bought it... Have been down that road a few times, after assuming the brand new part was in working order...
However If you're sure these are up to par, you may want to have a look into your fuses...
Yes the one that says Ignition would be the most affordable path to begin with. Atleast pull them, and check. You may have more than one fuse for this. And many of todays cars have more than one bank of fuses... My Car has fuses panels in three locations.
If you dont have the Owners manual (although some wont mention this.) Visit a local library and view the haynes or chiltons manual in the reference section. They will allow you to make copies of the pages you need. At a minimum, this can quickly help you find the other fuse panel locations while saving your back and neck from getting any unneeded kinks. Of course they will also contain the trouble shooting pages which may provide you other sources as culprits to this situation.
Hoping you find this useful
Good Luck and Happy Motoring
Respectfully
SOURCE: 98 olds acheiva won't start,
If the security light is on, then it can only be one thing. The security system is failing and immobilizing your car. Go to this link and read up on the problem. The security light is a dead give away that the security is messed up. If you have no little black chip in the shaft of your key, then this means you must have a passlock that runs on the transponder. You need the PERMANENT fix from this site. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/
SOURCE: Car won't start . Clicking noise wen key is turned
It's your starter. Find location of your starter. By the flywheel. Then. Bang on it . Your car will start. You still need to replace the starter.
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