Wont turn on, makes buzzing noise

FIXED
I have a deal with this kind corporates sabotaging for 2-3 times a month fixing computers and monitors.
The circuit boards for many BRAND NEW household devices, PCs, Computer monitors, dehumidifiers etc. purposely designed to work a little bit after warranty period and die quietly
Heater EW7507EK fixing. (soldering required)
Step 1. Turn it over. Unscrew 2 screws on the bottom of the face side.
Step 2. Mark and Unplug 3 wires from heating element. Unscrew the metal cover from circuit board. Immediately you'll see small black cylinder (CAPACITOR 470mF x 35V). Retail cost about $1- $3
Check this - the top of this capacitor rounded, not flat. That is mean it was "quietly blowup" and electrolyte evaporate.

Ely
Boston

I had the same problem with mine. Just stopped working one day. Display was blank, no lights and a buzzing sound. Was going to just send it to the junk yard, which I hate to do, but decided to do a search for the problem and any possible solution. I am glad I did. Based on the first post here by Ely F, I decided to try the repair myself. Gaining access to the circuit board to be able to desolder and then replace the cap is the tricky part. Once you remove the metal cover you will see there are several screws holding the circuit board and the control panel (part you can see from outside) . Remove these screws and take note of which screws go where because there are two different sizes. There are four plastic tabs on the control panel that also secure it to the cover body. These were dificult to maneuver in order to release the control panel. I used finger pressure and also a flat head screw driver and finally got it out. One of the tabs broke and this concerned me, however it was not an issue in the end. There are two screws that hold the control panel to the cover so the loss of the tab had no apparent effect on the security of the panel to the cover. Once you have the panel out you can separate the circuit board. There is a black plastic frame surrounding the circuit board that must also be removed to gain good access to the capacitor. The frame is flexible and can just be carefully bent or pried off. Be careful not to put pressure on the board or any of the attached components on the board. Once you have the board off, you must desolder the bad cap, remove it and replace it with a new one of the same rating type. I got mine at Radio Shack for about $2. Just for context, I have no training or experience with repairing these types of appliances and had never soldered a circuit board in my life. I would not say this is an easy fix for the average DIYer, but it is definitely doable. Plus you keep more stuff out of the land fills and save yourself the cost of a new heater.

I opened it up and saw the bulging capacitor, but I'm unable to remove the circuit board. How do you replace the capacitor?

It is a nightmare to remove the circuit board, but it can be done. Changed the capacitor and my heater works again. Paid $3.5 with prime shipping.

Ely of Boston:
If I bring my three to you, would you fix them?