a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
According to specs, they will take a 44 amp AC power surge. Obviously number and type of batteries as well as battery condition , etc, plugged in, not plugged in to outside hydro, or generator all come in to play here, but a 15,000 BTU roof AC will only draw, 15-17Amps AC when compressor kicking in, ( or less on some new models) and should level out at 12 -13 amp draw after. As well, this will depend on proper wiring to and from main panel as well as AC unit, and incoming voltage, AC unit condition ( cleaned and maintained properly) etc.
The limiting factor is the power available to run the device. Typically, roof air units are around 12,000 BTU.
Unless your rig is wired with a 50 amp service, you will not be able to run more than you have at the present with your 30 amp service. I have found that a rig with a microwave, a roof AC and a TV frequently cannot run all three at the same time. If you do have 50 amp service, you can add the second roof air. Also, if you have a 30 amp service, you can upgrade to 50 but that is an expensive proposition with the cord itself costing around $200.00. You would also have to upgrade the distribution panel and probably have a pro properly split up the load between the two 120 Volt AC buss'.
I hope this response helps you with your deliberation and thanks for your question @ FixYa.com
I'm from East Texas and me and my wife are full-time Rv'ers (since May 2010 when we both retired), so your question is an interesting one especially since we spent 2 weeks (1-15 July) in East Texas in some brutal heat/humidity.
I must say that when I bought my 5th wheel (38' Open Road) - I suspected that my AC unit (1 on the roof) would not work well in the hot Texas 'sun,' and it .... did not. But, in any event - like I mentioned - I "was not" surprised.
My idea was to stay out of the hot summers down here - which we plan to do from now on - but - because of a 'family reunion' we had promised to attend - we did - as I mentioned above - spend a couple of weeks in the heat. The best I could do was to hold the inside temp to 82-84 degrees and that was by making sure 'everything' - pressures, amps, freon charge, coils being clean' - was operating at maximum effienctly.
Like I said - we don't plan on being here (East Texas) during the brutal Texas summers in the future - but - if I was going to be - I would do the following.
#1 Fix - 'if I was not "moving" the RV and it was staying in one place and was likely to stay in that one place for a long time - I would install a 8 to 10,000 Btu window unit in my bedroom. In the winter I would probably leave it in the window (although removing it would be an option) and just 'cover' it with plastic of some sort to keep the cold out.
#2 Fix - if I was planning on 'moving' the RV in the future - and especially if I was planning on moving it 'often AND - staying in "hot weather country" - I would have a "stand alone unit" installed on my roof - right over - the bedroom. As for size I think I wouldn't put anything bigger than a 10,000 Btu unit in, and might even opt for a 8000 Btu.
The main reason I would stay away from using the existing duct in combination with the air I am adding - is that the duct system on a RV is fragile/troublesome to begin with and I would hesitate to 'add' to the load on it - or - to put all my eggs in one basket so to speak.
Again, the window unit (in the window) is the best and the cheapest option you have and if I wasn't planning on moving it - that is what I'd do. Here's a thought - since we've been in Wisconsin visiting my wife's sister (average daytime temp around 80 degrees) our AC has been 'freezing' us out - working like a charm. So.. if you 'are planning' to move and think you'll be able to stay out of the 'really hot weather' (like Texas/Oklahoma in June/July/August) - then the window unit (Fix #1) is by far the best option because when you leave you can take it out - restore your window to it's normal condition - sell the AC for a few bucks and be on your way.
Note: Since you have a 30 amp service - I would highly advise you to check with an electrician/Air Conditioning Service Tech about the "added amp draw" you will have and be sure - that your RV will handle the "extra electrical load" - any - modification you make will cause.
Check the filters and make sure the coils are clean first. Then make sure both fans are running, the evaporator fan and condenser fan. If all of that is ok then you need to get the refrigerant charge checked.
COLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t find the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers
You must have too many things running on that circuit. Check your connection to the power box.Loose connection on the receptacle can cause the breaker to trip or too many things running on the same circuit. If the breaker is old it might need to be replaced.