I replaced both thermostats and both elements in my 5 yr old water heater and I still don't have hot water. What else can I look for to fix?

Check if the TP valve is running water, and replace TP valve. Check if there is water leak somewhere
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html
Replace both thermostats and both elements, and then keep temperature turned down.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
Add a comment and describe what you find.

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Guessing that you have 240Volt residential non-simultaneous electric water heater? And that you have 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire. And that water heater is located within 100 feet of breaker box. And there are no leaks running hot water out of tank. And that you installed fully brand NEW elements of same wattage as old elements. And that fully brand new thermostats were installed, and wiring exactly duplicates wiring that was present before. And that factory-insulation was re-installed over elements and thermostats.

1) Guessing the 'hot water shut off' means the ECO red reset button located on upper thermostat keeps tripping and cutting off electric power to water heater?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/WH-w-combined2-1000.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-wires.html

2) If the ECO is tripping, then water is getting too hot, or there is shorted wire located near the upper thermostat, .
Typically replacing both thermostats and replacing elements will solve this problem .... assuming that new thermostats and elements are good, and wiring correct.
Double-Check your wiring on upper and lower thermostats.
Test wires for short.
Make sure factory-insulation is re-installed over thermostats so cool room temperature will not affect temperature reading.
Check that thermostats sit flat against steel tank.
Many short draws hot water can also cause stacking event that will trip circuit breaker.

3) Add comment and say what you find using checklist above.
Be careful to explain findings fully, using same words found on links above, so illuminated diagnosis can be made.

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Is water inside tank Hot?
Open TP valve and also open drain valve.
If tank is hot, then you might have plumbing problem caused by bad faucet cartridge or check valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Red reset button is located on upper thermostat.
Test for 120Volt across top two screws on upper thermostat.
You might have a bad upper thermostat.
If electric water heater has some hot water, then upper element is good.
Electrician should enjoy following page full of information.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Are the hot and cold pipes reversed on top of tank?
Usually the cold water line has shut-off valve.
Top of tank is marked H and C
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

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Question posted under marathon electric water heater.
Marathon is 240Volt dual element non-simultaneous water heater.
Non-simultaneous means that upper part of tank has to reach temperature before power is sent to lower thermostat and element. So if upper element is bad, then water heater has no hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html#audibleBW

1) You need to by-pass upper element without by-passing upper thermostat.
2) You should never by-pass upper thermostat because it has ECO-reset protection.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html

3) Open following link for image of wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Marathon-wiring-700.jpg
4) Take photo of your wiring in case color code is different on your specific model

5) Look at upper thermostat.
Remove yellow wire from terminal 2 on upper thermostat, and cap off temporarily.
Remove red wire from terminal 4 on upper thermostat, and move it to terminal 2 on upper thermostat.
6) For more effective operation, look at lower thermostat.
Remove black wire from lower thermostat terminal 1 and move wire to terminal 2 on lower thermostat.

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And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
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Safest method:
Shut off electricity to heater.
Shut the water valve.
Drain heater to below the level of the element, open hot water valve in house to vent heater to speed draining.
If the element is on top, you don't have to empty the heater.
Remove old element, install new element.
Leave hot water valve open somewhere in the house.
Turn water on.
Once air is removed at hot water valve, turn electric on.
Shut water valve.

Gary

You have 2 problems with several possible causes:
You have 10-year-old electric water heater that was reinstalled after falling down, and doesn't heat the water.
And you have no hot or cold water pressure, and no pipes are leaking.

1) First problem is lack of water pressure throughout house.
Turn on outdoor spigot nearest to water meter.
This spigot will tell you if problem is inside the house or between the house and meter.
If spigot runs full force, then you probably have clogged pipe where water heater connects to main cold line, or the main shut off valve got clogged with sediment that broke off inside the pipe when you were working on water heater.
Open and close shut off valve to see if that helps. Then disassemble pipes and track back the problem. Put pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to watch pressure drop when turning on indoor faucet.
Read following information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Water heater doesn't work:
Test across wires at top of heater to see if you are getting correct voltage:
If tank is receiving correct voltage, then no hot water puts suspicion on upper element or upper thermostat, or both.
Open following link for electric water heater troubleshoot steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Not knowing how old the unit is, it's possible that both elements could be bad, especially if you ru out of hot water quickly. If your sure the breaker is okay and you know how to use a voltage meter. Check the voltage at the thermostats and elements. While you are looking at the thermostat(s), press the red reset button and give it about 5 minutes and see if you hear the water heating up. If you have voltage at the thermostats and the elements. Turn the power off and check for continuity through the elements. If you don not have continuity, the element is bad. If all seems to check out, you probably have a bad upper thermostat. Check all connections and inspect the wires.

You have 240Volt Marathon water heater.
These heaters have element burn-out problems.
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Yes sediment can cause decreased amount of hot water when water cannot circulate around lower element, and sediment can cause lower element to burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Following list is overview of tank troubleshoot:

If you have some hot water, then that says several things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity from circuit breaker to upper thermostat is good.
-ECO reset button is not tripped.
-You do not have overheating event.
-Access doors and insulation are in place and thermostat not exposed to cool temperature that causes overheating.

That leaves following suspects:
1) Check if TP valve is stuck open, or pipe cracked, or faucet leaking and running hot water down a drain.

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad.

3) Lower element is bad -and- maybe tank has built-up sediment
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

4) Loose wire. Open covers and inspect. Tighten screws very tight against copper wire.

5) Bad wire between upper and lower sections of tank.

6) Do complete 30 minute troubleshoot before replacing any parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
We are always less expensive than a service call.

Electric water heater can be repaired by homeowner.

Water heater has some hot water.
We know 3 things for sure:
- electricity is ok
- upper element is ok
- tank does not have overheating problem

Here are the suspects:
- Burned or loose wire
- Upper thermostat not working
- Lower thermostat not working
- Lower element not working

What to do:
1) Turn off power, open water heater covers and look for signs of burned or loose wire, especially on lower element. Burned wire on lower element says lower element is burned out.

2) Test lower element.
Lower elements burn out when sediment builds up inside tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

3) If wires are ok. And you do not want to test parts, then replace upper and lower thermostat for 25$. If problem persists, replace lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

4) If you want to test thermostats and elements before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

5) When finished, be sure to put insulation and covers back on tank so thermostats don't receive cool air and misread tank temperature. This will prevent overheating of tank that causes red reset button to trip.

probably has lime and mineral deposits on thermostat and is not getting a correct reading turn off water supply and electrical - drain tank remove screws to heater elements and if build up try cleaning or if to bad replace same with the stat