Manual trans shifter not moving

It could be the clutch fork in the trans..

Check the cable under the gear lever. Look for broken pin or missing pin joining the lever to the cable

in a nutshell : first you will need an underhood engine holder to hold up the back of the engine , then pull the wheels remove spindles from struts remove axles from hubs then remove from transmission ,install engine holder remove battery cables from battery, remove trans mount bolts,clutch slave cyl, shifter linkage etc, bell housing bolts pull trans backward and remove from car.

Try adjusting the shifter cables, if you look at the trans youll see 2 cables and on the ends youll see springs with black collars on the end, you have to pull the collars back and twist them to lock. then if u look on the side of the rod where the cables connect to youll see a little black lever, you have to push down on the rod and flip the lever straight up, then you have to go inside the car and pull up the boot around the shifter, on the shifter youll see a little piece sticking off to the side with a hole in it, you have to put the shifter over to the left and get yourself a nail and put it through the hole into the shifter housing, then go back out to the trans and unlock the collars and flip that lever down.


If that dosnt work youll have to bring it to a tranmission shop. because the problem is likley internal

you have to unbolt the exhaust header and the two bolts under that, pull the radiator out so there is room to pull the exhaust header of the head,and let it drop down to get the two bolts out your talking about

The front of the handle has a large "U" clip. Use a screw drive and pry the clip out. It's a lot easier to do when the shifter is pulled all the way back to "1" or "2" but is doable in park still. The handle will then pull up. There will be a plastic piece in it that pushes down to release the lock in the shifter assembly. If when you push the plastic piece down it doesn't release the lock you will have to remove the shifter cover and take a look inside, to see what broke. It may require replacing the whole shifter assembly. You should be able to find the complete assembly used for fairly cheap.

Hello! Here is what I was able to track down:

Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Assembly Parts Breakdown:




Removing & Replacing The Hurst Dual/Gate
1. Disconnect car battery.

2. Remove Knob. Remove four Phillips head screws that hold escutcheon plate down to console.
NOTE: SHORT SCREW IS USED IN REAR RIGHT - HAND HOLE. Remove escutcheon plate and console from floor tunnel.

3. Lift selector indicator lamp housing out of shifter and pull bulb socket out of lamp housing. Disconnect wire connectors from combination Back - up light / Neutral safety switch.

4. Remove two 1/4 - 20 x 1/2 hex-head cap screws that fasten Dual / Gate shifter to rear mounting bracket. Remove 1/4 - 20 x 1/2 hex - head cap screw that holds cable bracket to shifter frame. Remove two #10 - 32 x 3/8 slotted head cap screws that fasten Dual / Gate shifter to front bracket. Free shifter from cable by removing cotter pin and washer.

5. Remove combination Neutral - safety / and Back - up light switch. Install switch on Replacement unit.

6. Install replacement shifter unit in reverse order of removal of original unit.

7. ADJUST CABLE: SEE FIGURE 1 (Below)
Loosen nut that fastens cable pin to transmission control arm. Loosen nut enough to allow pin to slide in the slot in the arm. Turn the arm to NEUTRAL position. Move the stick to NEUTRAL. Tighten the adjusting nut. Test movement of stick and check to be sure that stick positions agree with transmission control operation.



8. SEE FIGURE 2 (Below)
Connect car battery. Apply hand brake. Move stick to NEUTR AL position. Press foot on brake pedal. Start engine. If starter fails to operate, Neutral Safety switch must be adjusted. Adjustment is made with a long-bladed Phillips screwdriver through the "Street" gate. This screw is directly in front of the st ick. Turn the screw about 1/2 turn past the point where starter operates. (STICK MUST REMAIN IN "NEUTRAL" WHILE ADJUSTMENT IS MADE). Starter should operate ONLY when stick is in PARK or NEUTRAL position.




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Have someone look @ linkage on trans. while someone moves shift lever thru the gears. If lever @ trans doesn't move then its in the linkage between the column and trans. (possible clip or pin broken @ linkage jounts). If lever @ trans moves then its a trans. internal prob.

1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.

Check the cable clips at the trans. Sometimes these clips come out and won't shift. Horseshoe clips that hold the cable housing.