No Start The 20a fuse located in fuse box under the hood= ignition, starter, & fuel circuit This fuse continues to blow when key is turned to full start position. no problems any other position, as instrumental lights up, but without radio??? is this a ground/short problem in the ignition circuit, or does the starter need to replaced because it is drawing too manuy amps? can I put a wire to jump the fuse to isolate the problem, then quickly disconnect battery to see which circuit burns up or heats up first ? I do not have a computer test to plug into my car pin port under the hood which will probably tell me what is wrong, so what can I conventionally do without using a $50k dyno test computer. I also live quite far from the dealership, so the tow would cost me more than the car is worth. Any ideas?

Is the anti-theft light lit on the instrument cluster ? Won't start how ? When you turn the key to start , what happens ? Nothing ? This would be a No crank - no start condition . Now if you turn the key to start and the starter engages and spins the engine and it doesn't start an run , this is a engine cranks no start condition ! Now which is your problem ?

There are two fuse's IGN A fuse 40amp and IGN E fuse 10amp ,both are located in the under hood fuse/relay box . Also there is starter relay located in the same under hood fuse /relay box . There also is a crank fuse 10amp in the under hood fuse box . Besides the fuse's and relay ,the ignition switch or the PNP - park neutral position switch could be bad . Testing the whole starter circuit should be done ! How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

You a short to ground on the electrical circuit ! You need to find out what all is on that circuit ! Which fuse ? # fuse how many amp .
I see to fuse that supply B+ power to ignition switch , located in the under hood fuse box ! a 25 amp & a 50 amp . There are videos on youtube on short detection .

There is no starter cable under the dash ! there is a small gage wire that goes from the ignition switch to the PCM - engine computer . When turning the key to the start position a small amount of voltage to the PCM is a signal for it to energize the start 1 relay in the under hood fuse/relay box . At the ignition switch ,connector 2 , pin B a yellow wire is this discrete voltage signal to the PCM .At the PCM this wire is at Connector-2 pin 23 . You can check for continuity with an ohm meter . Do you know what a relay is , find the start 1 relay in the under hood fuse/relay center ! You can test for power an control of the starter motor circuit ! VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis If you had a professional grade scan tool you could view the ignition switch input to the PCM an energize the start relay in the special functions of the scan tool .

Turn key to On.
Turn on headlights manually... Do they come on?
Are there any lights on the dash?
If yes to these, battery is possibly not the sole problem.
Check for good, tight and clean connections at battery terminal posts!
If yes to above, continue on & get a helper... Turn key past on, to Start position.
Do you hear a click sound at time key is turned to Start?
If yes, then ignition switch is not problem, starter relay is getting power, and is now sending power to starter, but starter is not working.
Pic any No's... Then look there.
Good luck.

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

If it will turn over, and not start, you are missing either fuel or spark...Those need to be checked. (No fuel doesn't automatically mean bad fuel pump, as injectors need to "fire" the fuel.)
If it won't turn over, or clicks, and your battery is good, it might be the starter motor.

Put the fuses back in,and unplug the fuel pump from the tank,and turn the key on,if it does not blow the fuse,then the pump is the problem.Rate this if it is helpful,thank you.

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the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key on the starter comes on when you turn all the way to start so i would think the short is in the fuel pump if it blows by just turning the key on

It could be either the ignition switch,clutch safety switch(if applicacle)or the starter solenoid,I'm including the circuit diagram for you,one of the 2 or three if it's manual trans has short,if the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn the key on(not engaging the starter)it will be in the switch itself or the clutch safety switch.If it happens when you go to engage the starter it's most likely the solenoid.