SOURCE: cuisinart burr coffee grinder
The best solution I have was referred to me by a mate of mine who services commercial coffee machines.
Step 1. Remove the base of the grinder... this is actually the hardest aspect of this task... as there is one tamper-proofing screw... if you can't get the correct star-hex screw driver I recommend drilling the screw out.
Step 2. Once the base is off you will see the main shaft of the grinders motor. The shaft has a star washer set in behind hew nut, the end of the shaft has a slot cut into for a flat bladed screwdriver. Hold the nut with a pair of pliers & you can adjust the shaft positioning (& hence the burr attached to the motor) by about 3mm....
You will need to experiment to find the correct level of fineness as you require.
If you need further information send me an e-mail as I'd be happy to forward more detailed instructions.
Good Luck.
Cheers.......
Dave ([email protected])
SOURCE: My A-9 Coffee grinder no longer grinds coffee.
This fixes almost all the "beans will not feed or beans will not grind"
problems caused by coffee bean dust packed in the burrs. Oily beans
cause this problem more fequently.
a. Pour all the beans out the top.
b. Open the settings up all the way and see what else can be poured
out. Use your shop vacuum to **** grounds out the spout and backward
out the bean bin.
c. Pour in some instant rice and start grinding. Reduce the grind to
a small setting like six and then open the settings all the way again.
(The grinder will not start at a low setting with the rice in it. If
you let it stop, open the settings to about 16 before trying to
restart.)
d. Pour out the rice and vacuum out the ground rice.
e. Adjust the grinder to your favorite setting and try a coffee grind.
Grind until most of the rice dust is expelled (any remaining trace of
rice dust will not affect the flavor of the coffee).
SOURCE: Krups GVX2-12 Electric Burr - Thermal Fuse
My grinder stopped suddenly. Open the cover(s) by prying at the cracks with a butter knife or flat head screw driver.
The thermal fuse was good in my case, as were the interlock switches.
The circuit board was burnt around a large power resistor but I could figure out which component was bad.
I simply cut out the timer control completely. One of the black motor wires now connects to the red wire from the bottom interlock switch and the other black wire connects to the blue AC power wire. I may put in a button switch but it works great by using the lid interlock as an on/off switch.
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