Question about Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker
There is an "Auto Off" programing capability with this machine that may be the culprit if everything else is working fine. Check the user manual to reset it or disable the feature if it presents a problem.
Posted on Aug 26, 2010
Mcdevito75 here, Unit may need to be cleaned as water used to brew coffee leaves deposits in the brewing hoples, refer to the owner maual for cleaning the coffee maker.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
I am an electronics designer by trade, and before that a technician for many decades. We've had this machine or a very similar one (same controls, different color) for at least 8 years, and it began having problems like those described here after a few years of service. We had tried all the sensible non-invasive fixes (cleaning, filters, power resets, etc.) to no avail. Eventually the problem expanded into loss of at least one program function, so at that point I decided to go for broke and take the unit apart, to get to its inner control board. Doing so, for the DIY folks reading, involves removing two screws hiding under rubber sealers under the front area of the lid, which will allow you to pry off the whole top. After that, this allows access to two more screws near the bottom front of the inner area, and two more along the back near the top of where the panel resides. This, then allows the entire front panel to be removed. Following this, you can detach it from the machine by pulling a multi pin PB board connector. Finally, the PC board itself can be fully revealed, front and back, by removing three screws on the PC board side, and the nut on the front panel surrounding the main rotary function select knob.
Now the fun starts. If you examine the board you'll find several jumpers which connect various copper trace conductors on the top side of the board to the bottom. Look closely and you'll see that solder mask surrounding many of these jumpers looks suspiciously like it is preventing perfect connection. What you'll want to do is use a fine jewelers screwdriver to scrape away this solder mask from around any of these jumpers on both sides, and then with a soldering iron, re-heat and re-solder them. Applying some flux will also help make your solder flow well with existing solder, which may be of a different type. Look carefully at all these connections with a magnifier, and go ahead and go any extra miles you can think of to ensure any these connections that were marginal are now likely 100% better. Think of the pain in the neck it was to take apart, and that will inspire you.
You'll note that the switch mechanisms are all very well thought out, and have been designed well. Avoid cleaning any of the contacts associated with the switches though, unless you intend to re-condition them with fresh grease. You can reconnect the PC board to its panel along with the multi-pin PC board connector, and you can plug the unit in half disassembled to give it a basic test, but do NOT engage the BREW heaters until you're fully re-assembled. I had to wonder if steam and moisture were getting in, so I added something to seal the whole perimeter of the panel better before I pressed it back into place. ( I used some black "Shoe Goo" for this, since I know it will make a very good seal, and yet will be flexible enough to allow me to remove the panel if I even need to again.)
Anyway, bottom line, the unit worked flawlessly for several years after this surgery. I did have to repeat the process eventually for some different symptoms, which also proved to be the result of a few of those board link connectors I missed. (Grrr!!!).
In any case, the fact that I've seen so many complaints like this about this machine tells me that I was correct in my suspicions the first time I made this repair. While the internal electronics have many superior design ideas that COULD have resulted in a product that could work endlessly, there definitely is room for improvement when it comes to the side-to-side board connections. I suspect the problem is caused by the PC board flexing due to the fairly extreme temperature changes it must endure on a daily basis. But in any case, this was my solution, and the only one that seemed to make a permanent improvement.
Posted on May 11, 2017
I did a couple of vinegar cleanings and only temporarily helped but when i rooted around at the bottom of the water tank and filter side i pulled out all kinds of black soot and debris using a paper towel at end of a probe. That had to help i was thinking and so far no random shut offs.
Posted on Dec 13, 2016
SOURCE: self clean light keeps blinking
I recently had this similar problem. Try the following.
Your described problem may be one of two problems. Let's start with the easier solution first. In the DCC 1200 there is a filter "stick or column" in the left rear. Pull it out and remove the clogged carbon filter(s) that are in there. Shine a light into the receptacle and remove the debris in the bottom. It is likely that this is causing the problem with you machine needing to be started on multiple times. See if this solution works. If it does, you might run 8 cups of water and 4 cups of vinegar through to help decalcify the units plumbing. Do this once or twice and then rinse with at least one pot run-through of clean water. If this works then you are good to go.
Next, if this does not solve your problem we can do the following: unplug the unit and lay it on its back. You will need a #10 torx driver (hardware store if you don't have one) to remove the bottom cover plate. There are 4 torx screws holding it on. When removed, you will find 2 orange hoses. Carefully attempt to remove the left hose without splitting. I used a eyeglas screwdriver to loosen it up. If it splits, just cut off the split and stretch it to reconnect when time comes. As you look into the hose you will find a little black valve inside as well a some gunk. Clean it all out with a fine wire as best you can. Rinse well. Attempt to reconnect the hose back onto the pipe. Slip the pipe clamp back into place. Replace the cover and screws and you should be good to go again. This is not as daunting as it may seem. You can do it. :o) Good luck! If this answer helps, please leave positive feedback for me. Much appreciated. Regards, NormanZ
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
I have the same pot except for the 10 cup model, and it has been doing the same thing. I realized that I have never changed the charcoal filter inside, and I believe that may have been the problem. I removed the filter, ran vinegar through the pot several times as well as cleaned some nasty looking scum out of the water reservoir. I ran 3 pots of water after that. The problem has not recurred so far. I think it may be fixed although time will tell for certain.
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
Called the company and the representative told me that on the CBC 1600 series, it is intentially designed to turn off the hot plate after brewing because the stainless steel carafe will keep the coffee hot. If you are experiencing poor heating, her suggestion was to preheat the pot with really hot water before putting it under the basket. I can't help wondering if they have turned a bug into a feature
Posted on Jun 16, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 19, 2017 | Cuisinart Coffee Makers & Espresso...
Oct 12, 2014 | Cuisinart Coffee Makers & Espresso...
Nov 09, 2009 | Cuisinart Brew Central DCC-1200W, 12-Cup...
Nov 15, 2008 | Cuisinart Coffeemakers
Nov 09, 2008 | Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker
Oct 06, 2008 | Cuisinart Grind and Brew 10 Cup Coffee...
Aug 27, 2008 | Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker
Jul 17, 2007 | Cuisinart DGB-500 Coffee Maker
Jan 26, 2016 | Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker
24,870 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!