Granite installation didn't get flush with slide-in range
We recently had grantite countertops installed. We had a new range on site when the templating was done, and new tile floors installed as well. When everything was done (granite, backsplash, tile floor), the new slide-in range is 1/2" above the counter surface on all 3 sides. What went wrong? Did the granite contractor not measure something? They have recommended drilling holes in the tile floor for the range legs to set in. Is there something else that can be done at this stage.
Re: granite installation didn't get flush with slide-in...
Normally cabinets are installed on top of tile. I'm assuming the tile that you had installed did not get installed under the cabinets but it did get installed under the range. This creates a different height that the range is designed to adjust for. The granite needs to be directly on the cabinets unless the customer or home owner specifies differently. Hope this helps.
Re: granite installation didn't get flush with slide-in...
Granite contractor should have had enough common sense to allow for a tiled floor.
however, what is the granite worktop resting on? presumably on kitchin units which should have in turn, adjustable legs (they do hear in England anyway) maybe you have a solution in adjusting the legs of the units. it will be laborious as you will probably have to use a jack due to the weight of the granite worktop.
cornwall where i live is made mostly of granite by the way
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If you are talking about a gap caused by the height of the stove, You can lower the height of the stove by adjusting the threaded leg posts on the bottom of the stove. A more difficult fix would be in raise the height of the countertop and cabinets by shimming the bottom of the cabinets.
If your gap is not a height issue, then you can experiment with some type of trim around the stove itself. Local granite dealers has an assortment of trims for issues like this.
I was able to find a number of trims for a back gap on my granite countertops and backsplash from my local European Marble and Granite.
You can do it yourself. These cook tops are not glued to the granite at all (Or is not supposed to be). Simply lift is up slowly, start from the side, and lift it slowly. If done carefully you won't damage anything.
From my experience, most cooktop manufacturers give cutout dimensions that almost always need modifications to get the screws or nuts on the stove to fit the cutout. Have your granite fabricator come enlarge the opening by grinding specifically where there is interference. They should be able to tent off your granite and use a vacuum to minimize dust. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Brandon Wiese - Brandon@StoneRepairman.com - http://.www.StoneRepairman.com
They suggested a dryer because they thought the stone had absorbed a liquid and was causing the stone to darken. This is common on unsealed granite. If you put a sealer on the counter tops however, whatever it is you see there will remain under the seal. I would ask the installer to come out and take a look at it. If they are unwilling, the Home Depot has a cleaning kit sold in the kitchen counters area of the store made by a company you can call and they will ask questions about the problem and provide advice on how to fix it. They are extremely helpful with free suggestions as well as stuff you may be able to purchase to fix the problems. In any case, granite is sensitive stuff and while it is physically durable it seems to be extremely sensitive to stain and etching and learning about proper care, cleaning, and dos and dont's will save a lot of heart ache and time for you down the road. (For instance oil absorbing into the stone is a several day ordeal to fix). Good luck with getting the results you want. If you did find a specific solution please share it here.
I can't imagine directing the downdraft vent back up to a traditional hood type system. Why bother, just don't use the downdraft or get a cooktop without a down draft and save money.
In granite, yes for any cooktop as long as someone can cut the correct size hole. Cooktops must be installed so the top is just about flush with the countertop. They all come with a template for cutting the right size hole in the countertop.
the back splash should be held on by silicone or glue very seldom are they screwed on i would bet it is stuck with adhesive silicone so score around the outside of the splash with a utility knife the remove it scoring around the outside will prevent sheet rock damage
alot of installers will use a silicone glue to "seal" the unit to the countertop. what happens is that means you cant get it out without cutting the glue off first. it could also be that the unit is very tight in the countertop. also did you remove the "hold down" screws from underneath the unit first??? there should be a screw on each side below the unit.
one more thing... do you have a gas line under your counter? if not be sure you can get a gas line to it before you try to remove the old unit. most homes have a finished ceiling under the kitchen and it would be almost impossible to install a new gas line if its not already there.
There should be removabe clamps attatched to the bottom of the cooktop which tighten with a screw to the bottom of your countertop. Loosen the screws to the countertop, then remove the screws that attach the brackets to the cooktop. The cooktop should then be able to be pulled out.