Same chewed red vacuum A/C damper line passenger side. splices to black line above the AC coil box. Removed battery and holder. Loosened A/C dryer mounts from inner fender. Removed fan motor. Interior passenger side lower right corner of the air input damper is the entry port for the black vacuum line. Removed clear rubber entry port weather plug/seal. Pulled the damaged black line out of the weather plug/seal. Ran a wire fish line from interior to exterior below left corner of the fan motor. Taped new line to fish tape and pulled new line into the cab. Reinserted new line into weather seal and reinstalled in reverese.
This is on my 2002 E450 V10 Triton Mini Winnie. P0171 and P0174 error codes. No floor heat / vent
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If you don't get an answer by Mondy, I will look at our fleet of Econolines and the wiring book and look up the answer. Could be for EGR or other PCM controlled functions. Good description though. I work in Ford Service Engineering in Detroit. They are probably nylon lines. I think we have repair kits we sell. Auto Zone may too. Left side is driver side, do you mean passenger side?
Testimonial: "Thank you for the many hours of work in attempting to solve my problem. Sorry I gave up but it reached the point of beyond my experience."
I am going to take a guess that the red hose goes to the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator. It is a round , about 2 1/2 in can with a diaphragm that helps control fuel pressure to the injectors. You won't notice much difference with it off, except the vacuum leak. Look for a steel rail with the 5 injectors on it and the presure regulator screwed into it. let me know if that is it.
Close, but no. There is one red line that runs to the fuel pressure diaphram that comes off the throttle body. At the same place is the 2nd red line that pairs off and runs parrallel with the right side of the engine and curves around the heater/AC fan box and heads for the right inner fender. This one I have traced but the **** rat chewed it off just as it disappears down toward the fan motor. It apparently goes thru the firewall some place there and hooks up to the diaphram that controls the heater/AC/defrost vent system. I have been told it is wrapped with the wiring harness that runs down thru the Right inner fender and terminates behind the right kick panel. That is incrorrect as I have examined those wires to no avail. I have come to the conclusion that I have to take my life savings to the Ford dealership and let them figure it out as my ole body is wearing out from all this hassle. Need to be 30 yrs younger. Thanks anyway. Jake.
Don't give up. Here is some info. more to come. vacuum hose connection to heater controls.
Item
Part Number
Description
1
-
Vacuum to the auxiliary A/C system (if equipped)
2
18A318
Vacuum control motor - floor/panel door
3
-
Panel vent airflow
4
-
Floor/panel door (full vacuum position) (part of 18471)
5
18B545
Temperature blend door (full heat position)
6
19860
Evaporator core
7
19A813
Air inlet door (full vacuum position)
8
-
Outside air inlet
9
18A318
Vacuum control motor - air inlet duct door
10
-
Recirculated air inlet
11
19805
Blower motor
12
18476
Heater core
13
-
Vacuum from the engine intake manifold (gas engine) or vacuum pump (diesel engine)
14
19A563
A/C vacuum check valve
15
19A566
A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket
16
19B888
Function selector switch
17
-
Floor airflow
18
18A318
Vacuum control motor - floor/defrost door
19
-
Floor/defrost door (full vacuum position) (part of 18471)
20
-
Defrost airflow
The shop manual says you have to remove a lot of stuff for access to the lines where they go thorugh the firewall.
We normally bundle the vacuum hoses with the wire harness for ease of assembly in the plant. But all you need to do is get vacuum supply to the heater controls inside the van. You can get a new vacuum line into the van another way. you just need to hook up a small vacuum storage canister under hte hood or in the van under the dash. It has to be in the same circuit witht he supply line from the engine intake manifold. Just think of the engine as a vacuum pump. The vacuum storage cansiter will need a check valve in it's line to prevent loss of vacuum on shut down.
Can you see any of either hose exposed in the engine compartment from the fender well or firewall?
I just took a look at our 2010 E350 6.8L van. I can see the red hose comeing from the passenger side of the engine and then becomes balck nylon hose above blower motor, then it goes throuogh firewall and becomes 2 hoses. One goes up tot he control head, the other to a vacuum motor.
If it were me, I would run the hose from the back of the engine, under the dog house (engine cover) gasket and into the under dash area. Connect it direct with any kind of vacuum storage canister with a one way check valve that keeps the vacuum in the tank under acceleration.
SECTION 412-00: Climate Control System - General Information and Diagnostics
2007 E-Series Workshop Manual
GENERAL PROCEDURES
Procedure revision date: 10/16/2006
Vacuum Hose Repair - Mini-Tube 
Printable View (18 KB)
Special Tool(s)
Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalentMeasure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.
Cut a piece of standard 1/8-in inner diameter vacuum hose approximately 25 mm (1 in) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose.
Cut off the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area.
WARNING: Carefully read cautionary information on product label. For EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION seek medical advice. In the USA or Canada on Ford/Motorcraft products call: 1-800-959-3673. For additional information, consult the product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) if available. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
Dip the mini-tube hose ends in commercially available paint thinner containing Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). This solvent will seal the mini-tube in the vacuum hose.Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) into the ends of the standard 1/8-in repair vacuum hose section.
Shake the repair joint after assembly to make sure the solvent is dispersed and the vacuum line is not plugged.
Test the system for a vacuum leak in the repair area.
Use the Vacuum Pump Kit or equivalent.
OK, OK, I will try one more time. Give me a hour of so and will see if my neck can take anymore.
You are dealing with 13, 14 & 15 on the chart, loer right of diagram. I can take a picture of our 2010 if needed.
OK, found the vacuum servo under the right dash back against the firewall that appears to be connected to the vent door. It has one white vac lead and it pairs up with a black lead that comes from a plug in the vent housing. Both then go up high to the top under the dash but cannot see nor feel up there There is no cannister that I can find which is aggrivating as I know there has to be one. The only other thing that I could do is pull the dash off but now I am totally disgusted and I have absolutely no desire to go to any more work on this thing. Let's call it quits and let Ford do their job. I will maintain this sight and will reply to you as soon as I find out because I intend to check this out throughly just as soon as Ford finds and repairs it. My curisoty is about to kill me along with my bent back and torgued neck! I didn't tell you but I caught the RAT in a live trap. Hung his **** by a cord in a tree in my back yard (I live miles from nobody) and limbered up my Assault Rifle on him. Just desserts!
One more thing before I quit. If there is some way that FixYa could set up a process for receiving photos from us to you, it would sure be benefical to all. I could have sent you photos of the entire thing to start with.
Thanks, Jake
Some have put photos on you tube for me to see and videos.
Ask the dealer, if the tech can't get to the vacuum line without a lot of hours, if they can just run a new line through the dog house and to across the dash to the vacuum connection to the storage canister and heater controls. Give me the dealer's phone number and I can talk to the service advisor.
The vacuum storage canister is inside the plenum from what I can see.
Post the photos if you want.
An alternaitve is to join my villager quest group and post them in the temporary photo file
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerqu...
Gerry from Ford
Sir, I thank you. The dealership is Jones Ford in Wickenburg, AZ, Phone 928-684-5481. I will be dropping off my Motorhome at 8:00 a.m.MST tomorrow morning, (Tuesday) so if you call, make it about 8:15 and ask for the Service Desk. I will make sure they are aware of you calling and will want to talk to the mechanic that will be doing the work. Now, as far as photos, when I find out what has occurred with the thing, I will post them if I can figure out how to do it. Or if you want, send me an email at: [email protected] and I will forward everything I've got. I am sure you will run across this mess again some day and would like to know exactly what happen. Again, thank you..
Gerry, I have sent photos of the mess to your email. Everything is back to normal. Thanks for your help.
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I dont have diagram, but there is a line on the vacuum pump that comes off and loops back around
to the pump. I don't know why but it's supposed to be there.
Another line comes off and goes to the vacuum canister. From the
canister there is a T and two lines. One goes forward to the HVAC
controls. The other goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid on
the firewall forward of the pump. From the solenoid another line goes
down to the axle where it hits a T and one line goes to each hub.
Test it and keep us updated.
Well you are on the right track the vacuum line is for the heater control and runs from the throttal body to the passanger side inner fender and hooks to the line that runes threw the fire wall to the heater controles i have looked everwere for a picture and i cant find one for you, but if you look at the passanger side inner fender you will find a wirring harness the vacuum line runs with this harness, it is bundled togather with all the wires...good luck
You were right on the vac line going to the left side as after removing the battery, I found another section of the line (which now has turned into a black line) and thought we had it solved. But the Dirty Rat chewed it into again just as it started down by the inner fender. Not sure if it went into the inner fender or down some place under the fan motor. Anyway, the line doesn't follow the wiring harness within the inner door. I located the harness after removing the kick panel on that side and carefully inspecting the entire bunch. I do see the vac module up under the dash on the right side that controls the vent doors and it is connected by two lines that run up high and out of sight for my ole body to cramp my head in there to see but it looks like they go up above the fan somewhere. I have now come to the conclusion that Ford is going to get my life saviings on Monday as I am going to give up. Thanks anyway and next time I promise to ask a simpler question!
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Fig. Lower intake manifold tightening sequence-4.3L engines 
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Vacuum Pump Kit
WARNING: Carefully read cautionary information on product label. For EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION seek medical advice. In the USA or Canada on Ford/Motorcraft products call: 1-800-959-3673. For additional information, consult the product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) if available. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
Give me a little time to check some of this out but you are getting way too technical. I am an old but somewhat decent mechanic but have not worked on these newer vehicles. All I can see are the two 1/8" red vac lines, both coming from the intake and one going to the solenoid on the rear of the engine and one that used to go to somewhere up near the front. Will let you know more shortly.
What you have described does not fit this engine. And why in the world would vac lines run to the front hubs? There are only two RED vac lines coming from the throttle body intake and one goes to rear of the engine and one goes to the front. I need to know where the one that goes to the front terminates.
Have a 2008 Ford E450 Class C M/H with a Triton V-10. Rats chewed up a vacume line. Facing the engine, left side of the intake manifold near throttle body is a connection with two RED plastic vacume lines, one going to the rear of the engine to a solenoid looking aparatus and the other apparently going to the front of the engine. This one the rats chewed up. It is about 30-32" long and I need to know where it ternimates.
Sorry, it is the passenger side. I'm standing in front looking in at the engine and that would be my left. Anyway, the rat did a good job of cutting the one line that apparently runs forward by chewing it into 4 pieces and hacking whatever the connection is on the terminating end. It looks like a rubber plug that goes into something, about 1/2" in diameter and 1" long with some kind of snout on the end. And... The little engine light is now displayed on and the air mix controls for the AC/Heat no longer work as the only air comes out of the defroster vents. So, that is a good hint but I will delay tearing it apart until I hear from you.
Thanks,
Jake
snorkelbobby, I know what you are talking about. I found most of with exception of the canister but it really doesn't matter. When you said "check valve", I finally figured out what the chewed up piece is that used to be a check valve. The dang rat did too much damage to the line along wth all the connections that run from the source to the termination point. I have spent too many hours now fixing all the chewed wiring along with numerous safety relays that turn off the TV when you start the engine along with switching this from that and whatever else that I have reached my limit. My enthuisiam is gonnnne! You guys earned your money and I do appreciate it. Thanks a million.
Jake Bender, Congress, AZ
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