20 Most Recent Makita Tools 12" Compound Miter Saw - LS1221 Questions & Answers

In order of cost, for the likely problem. Inspect the brushes to make sure that they are making good contact with the armature, this would make it run intermittently and are the most common and cheapest. Next would be the thumb switch, it reverses the polarity momentarily and causes the motor to brake. These are the most common reasons it won't run, especially if the brake is not working or being intermittent, the switch is the problem; and if this doesn't fix it, then I'd try the controller.Hope this helps, if so, mark my answer please so I know if I've helped or not.

Adjusting the miter angle involves two cast surfaces sliding against each other. If those surfaces have some irregularities, high spots on the two surfaces will bind against each other. You may have to disassemble the rotating table from the base and do some filing or grinding.

good luck should have got a makita,ya get what ya pay for

i have a bosch   it has a little knob on the side that i pull and give a half twist and release   then the arm will raise and fall until time to store it again

PUT THE CENTRE BOLT BACK IN PLACE SCREW IT RIGHT IN THEN UNDO IT 3 FULL TURNS THEN GIVE IT A GOOD CLOUT WITH A DRIFT AND HAMMER IT WILL COME WHEN IT DOES YOU WILL NEED TO GIVE IT AGOOD CLEAN UP AND REASEMBLE IT AND YOU SHOULD BE RIGHT

Check the power cable. They could be broken or frayed and you are not getting enough power to it replace and then try to see if it works then. Make sure you buy the right size gauge for you machine

Just join the two wires together if they work by providing current, or disconnect if they work by being open circuit. Microswitches are normally safety related so bypassing them is not recommended. Just replace the switch if it is faulty. £13.99 https://www.google.com/search?q=microswitches+on+makita+LB1200F+bandsaw ..

First thing I would check are the Carbon Brushes. The are # 75 in the picture



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clean and check for debris

https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+work+makita+ls1013+without+controller+device&oq=How+to+work+makita+ls1013+without+controller+device&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

If you have removed the kerf boards and the center bolt the saw will lift straight off the turn base. It is possible the aluminum is deformed a little, but it will pull straight up and off if that bolt is out

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1170716/Makita-2414en.html?page=9

spray with lubricant

may be to late for lube noise either bearing or gear worn /debris or damaged

You are increasing the load on the bearings.

Hello Derek, it seems that your motor or motor brushes have failed please contact the manufacture about replacing the motor brushes.

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All portable power tools including saws and most tradesman type saw benches use the light and powerful series wound brush-type motor that doesn't use a start capacitor. The single phase induction motor that does use a start capacitor is far too bulky and heavy for portable tools but is found in many of the static workshop tools. The powerful brush type motor is electrically very noisy and is almost permanently at the edge of self destructing. Good suppression to prevent radio and tv interference is necessary and this also helps protect the motor but a mains transient or power surge while in use can cause an internal surge destroying the insulation of the windings rendering the motor useless in a millisecond. This could be what happened to your saw though it could equally be an internal short circuit in the power cord or inside the saw and these things must be checked before either writing off the tool or sending it for repair.

The principle of the series wound brush type motor is fairly straightforward with a field coil set either side of an armature that is mounted in bearings with a commutator and brush gear mounted at one end, the circuit consists of a field coil, the armature and the other field coil connected in series. The air gap between the rotor and stator is small but large enough to allow free rotation even when hot - electrically there should be continuity through the circuit from the start of one field coil to the end of the other though typically the dc resistance will be found to be low but will rise sharply when the armature is spun... The checking of the wiring, switch and motor circuit is largely intuitive and well within the scope of the handyperson though the proper testing of electronic speed controls or soft starts is beyond most folk, fortunately though, these things are usually in the form of a module that either work or don't and if the remainder of the circuit tests ok it is reasonable to assume the module is defective and it is usually reasonable to bypass such a module to test motor operation before spending cash. Professional equipment sold in many parts of the world must be fitted with an electric brake designed to stop rotation in one second when switched off - as yet I haven't had to delve into such things. This design of motor is electrically very noisy and high powered motors are perpetually at the edge of self-destruction and effective suppression is important to prevent electrical interference to receiving equipment and to some extent protect the motor. Suppression takes on a variety of forms from a through-module containing a variety of chokes and capacitors to discrete components. It isn't unusual for a suppressor module to fail - they often don't age well...