Dometic Portable Ice Maker HZB-15S - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The smell is Freon, I would replace the unit. The cost to repair is usually 50% or more of the cost of a new one. Once the Freon goes the compressor usually goes with it.

It could be a few different issues. It could be a dirty orifice and or burner, it could be a bad safety, or even a thermocouple. If you would like some help diagnosing the problem better please feel free to give Arcticold a call toll free 1-888-782-6665 ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold ">

It is more then likely just a dirty orifice. The orifice is located just before the burner. It is a brass fitting that screws into the burner. It can be cleaned by removing it and soaking it in rubbing alcohol for a half hour then blowing it out. Do not poke anything through it! One cleaned try the fridge again, if this does not cure the problem then it is more then likely your thermostat that has failed. These thermostats are still available. They are a dometic dual stat and can more then likely be found on Ebay for around $100. For any other RV fridge issues please contact ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold with locations accross North America we can help you with your RV fridge problems. ">

Hi, It is more then likely the heating element or a fuse in the electronic board located on the rear of the refrigerator. The heating element is located on the right hand side looking at the rear of the refrigerator. It is the probe like item that protrudes from the duct work with two black wires attached. You must disconnect the wires from the board then take the door off of the duct work, the the heating element will slide upwards to remove it. Please feel free to contact us 1-888-782-6665 ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

Dometic had several recalls for that problem, faulty thermostat I believe. Mine does the same thing, but I haven't taken it out to replace the thermostat / thermocoupler.

The gas lines are pretty sensitive to corrosion. A lot of times you just need to gently clean off the tip of the line that feeds the gas next to the igniter. Check your igniter as well.

Please watch video

No it will not, absorption type refrigerators such as the ones in RVs can be layed on there side or even flipped upside down when turned off. But when in operation must be level.

You can adjust the temperature of your refrigerator by adjusting the thermistor wire located in the refrigerator and it is clipped onto the aluminum fins (white wire). It is normally clipped onto the far right hand side of the fins, if you move it to the left it will get colder. If it does not satisfy then unclip the wire completly from fins. ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

https://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/.../Customer-Support

There should be two screws holding the handle on. Remove them and install the new handle assembly.

Go to your breaker box inside the RV. Locate the breaker that is for the refrigerator. It may have tripped but still looks as if it is on. Turn it off then back on. It should click and stay firm in the on position. Now check your outlet for power. Either use an outlet tester or a portable radio. If you have power but the refrigerator is still not working you will also need to check the 12vdc power supply. The refrigerator must have 12volts to operate even when in AC mode. There is a wire from the 12vdc connection block that goes to a thermal switch on the heat riser tube to the right. That wire has an inline diode and if the diode has failed it will not allow the refrigerator to work and like wise if the thermal switch has tripped it will shut the unit down. The switch is resettable. The diode wire, if bad, will have to be replaced. If you do not have 110vac power at the outlet after resetting the breaker you will need to remove the outlet and inspect it for bad connection or broken wire and then trace the wire back to the breaker box until you find the point of failure. You will also want to check the ground bar in the breaker box and make sure the neutral wires are properly seated and tight.

Simple questions: Do you have LP gas in the tanks? Is the gas getting to the cook top, water heater and furnace? If not, check the main LP regulator. On the back of the refrigerator there is a small gas valve, is it open? Does the flame light but the igniter continue to click and then shut off? If it does you need to clean the igniter and make sure that the gap between the igniter and flame tube is set at approximately 1/8". If this is not the case you need to see if the gas valves are opening. When the refrigerator is turned on in gas mode, after a short pause you should hear the valves click and then the igniter will start its process. If you do not hear the valves click you will need to determine if they are getting power during that process. If they are not getting power then the circuit board is bad. If they are getting power but are not opening then the valves are bad.

Was the end of the spiral flue baffle burned up? If it was it could be disrupting the air flow which will not allow it to reach the proper temperature. Does the flame stay lit or does it go out after a while? If it is going out after a while the thermo-switch that detects high heat may be shutting it down due to the flame being too hot. Fire prevention safety...

The Dometic refrigerators do not have a compressor and conventional condenser. I have attached a picture for you to see how the system is designed and how it works. But to answer your question. The only time that you would need to clean the fins on the upper back of the unit would be if the air flow was blocked by mud daubers or wasps nests. To do so would require pulling the refrigerator out of the cabinet it is mounted in. Remove the two screws on the back, unplug the 110vac power cord, disconnect the 12vdc power supply, disconnect the LP gas line (Make sure the tanks are off). Then go inside and remove the two screws at the bottom corners then remove the cover at the top that contains the eyebrow board and remove the two screws in the upper corners and slide the unit out. Clean behind the unit as desired and slide back into place and reverse the process. You will need a #2 square headed Robert's bit to remove the screws.

Make sure the gap between the igniter and the flame tube is approximately 1/8". Also make sure that you have at least 11.5vdc going to the board. If these steps do not correct the problem then your board is more than likely bad.

It sounds like you have a bad circuit board. You will need to take it to an authorized repair center and have them test the board.

I tried to respond in Spanish but this site would not allow it! Does the light work on the inside of the refrigerator? If not, on the backside of the refrigerator there will be a small round thermal switch located on the large round pipe to the right. It will have two wires going to it and will have a button in the center. Press the button and see if it starts working. If it does not then the red wire going to the switch that has a black sleeve on it has gone bad and will need to be replaced. It must have the diode in the wire to prevent a fire. If the lights are working and it does not cool with gas or electric it could be a bad thermistor or a bad cooling unit. Look for a yellow oily or ash like substance on the back of the refrigerator where the flame will be. If you see that then the cooling unit is bad. If you do not see that then unplug the thermistor from the main circuit board (the small two wire plug to the left) and let it run for 24 hours. If it does get cold then you need to replace the thermistor.

What are you calling a slider assembly? The small gray piece attached to the inner arm? or the spring torsion assembly?

Just answered on a previous post.