20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSFS25FK Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

Whirlpool refrigerators as well as the other brands that fall under the corporation most like at some point within the first five years will stop cooling and freezing, and the sound you here will be either a humming follow by a click or in some cases just the click alone. This is caused by the start device on the compressor. The relay part of it has basically burnt, fell apart inside, however you want to describe and is not passing the power to the compressor to come on. To access this pull the refridgerator out from the wall, and first and foremost unplug it. Once that is done remove the lower panel, sometimes cardboard sometimes metal which is held up by a few quarter inch screws. Place to the side and located the compressor. The box on the side is start device, it will have 2 or 3 wires going to it, most of the time red and white respectively. Also they maybe a black box thats connected to the start device and sits horizontallty. Thats the capacitor. Keep that if your going to do the repair yourself. I recommend doing it because its very easy and will save you alot of money. You can buy this part at www.repairclinic.com or at www.apdepot.com just be sure to have your make and model number handy. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

hi hermankelsey,

thank you for using fixya. have you tried defrosting the whole unit just over night?

this will help the coppers to cool down and melt the coolant to let it settle. once it is you will notice that the part will not be frosting anymore.

this is the most common issue and the most common solution.

hope this helps, should there be any other issues after this, please do not hesitate to let me know.

regards.

voodoo

Your refrigeration unit probably leaked freon refrigerant. You may need to call for service for them to replace freon. Not a job you can do yourself unless you have proper equipment and knowledge.
I had the same problem.

Hi!!! You seem to have a problem with your water filling tube or your icemaker water valve..First get a dryer and aim it on the filling tube if it still makes no water then change your water valve shown here

either the microswitch went bad or the solinoid is bad on the water valve. if i was you i would get a new solinoid valve and replace t.

the Evaporator Tray should slide out after remove the bottom grille two clips hold it in...if you can't get it out use a wet shop vaccum with a rubber hose taped on the end ot it...let me know if you can get it.

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..

Possibly you r hhermostat in Fridge section gone bad. (if freezer working then most likely (if freezer at top & fridge has Iced up or food in the freezer or fridge Is Blocking the Air vents inside that circulates the cool air flow to Bottom or top, check & listen to see if Fan is working inside freezer /fridge worst case scenario is (if you have a p.c board on top , that could b a Fault there also (then you need a Tech, ).

You didn't say but you need to turn the breaker off for 10 minutes. Best to you.

I would check the door seals as if not sealing damp air will enter and condense, causing water everywhere.

If the interior controls and lights in your KitchenAid KBFC42FTS refrigerator are blinking but there are no alarms or error codes displayed, it may indicate a problem with the refrigerator's control board or power supply. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Power cycle the refrigerator by unplugging it from the electrical outlet or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to it. Wait for a few minutes and then plug it back in or turn on the circuit breaker.
2. Check the refrigerator's power supply by ensuring that the electrical outlet is working properly and that the power cord is securely plugged in.
3. Check the control board for any signs of damage or corrosion. The control board is usually located on the back of the refrigerator, behind a panel. If you see any damage or corrosion, you may need to replace the control board.
4. Check the wiring connections between the control board and other components such as the lights, fans, and sensors. Loose or damaged wiring can cause communication issues and blinking lights.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, it is recommended that you contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose and repair the problem.

1. Check if the fridge is level. If not, adjust the leveling legs.
2. Verify that the condenser coils are clean and free of obstructions.
3. Check the temperature settings and adjust if needed.
4. Ensure that the evaporator fan is working properly and not obstructed.
5. Check the condenser fan for proper operation.
6. If the high-pitched noise persists, it could be a sign of a failed fan motor or other mechanical issue, and a professional repair may be necessary.