The bike will start, but once it is shifted in to gear it will shut off imediatly. i'm guessing a problem with wiring some where or something please let me know
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18 posts - 9 authors
I start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in, then I shift into first and it will kill ...bike, if you put the bike in gear and try to roll it (even with the clutch lever pulled ...Started it back up, gave it enough throttle to keep it from stalling, put it in 1st, ... I continue to change the oil in my clutch but almost immediately it turns white.
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10 posts - 8 authors
My 99 Roadstar has the habit of always shutting off when I knock it into first ... pull in the clutch and put it in first gear the bike lunges forward and shuts off. ... Hold thefront brake ALWAYS when shifting a cold bike into first. ... What I do on cold starts is to select first gear with the motor off, pull the clutch in and ...
Jul 21, 2014 - It's easy to assume the worst when your bike isn't opperating perfectly, ...Where's my ignition! ... First, ensure the battery is good and that the engine turns over.... Try starting with the kickstand up, clutch in, and bike in neutral and see if the ...goes away most the time when the bike is put into gear or revved.
Your bike apparently has a safety mechanism where the engine shuts off while in gear, if the side stand is extended. The wire you fixed may not have been fixed properly. There is a switch at the end of that wire which senses the kick stand position. See if that switch is working properly. You can bypass the switch by shorting the wire, but remember it's a safety mechanism and it's better to keep it fixed.
Dont run your bike. Drain the primary/transmission fluid and remove the primary cover. If you dont imediatly see the problem put the shift lever on the shaft and put bike in gear by gently rocking back and forth. If you still dont see the problem it depends on the year your Sportster was made. If the noise is indeed comming from the left side (primary side) you will see what is hitting what and making that noise.
Without being able to see and mess with the bike a bit, I would guess that you have a shifter pawl spring broken in your transmission. It's either the return spring or the spring on the pawl itself. To test the spring, start from the "neutral postition" of the shifter. Regardless of the gear the bike might be in, when you are not pushing down on the shifter or lifting up on it, it is in the neutral position, where it normall sits. Now, using your fingers push down on the shift lever until you feel the transmission start to shift, you feel a resistance. Stop right there, do not shift the gear but allow the shifter to return to the neutral position. Now, lift the shifter with your fingers until you feel the resistance of the transmission getting ready to shift. What you are feeling for is the resistance of the shifter return spring. Does it feel the same in both directions? If not, the spring is broken. If it does, then the problem is something else.
Still if the transmissio will not shift into a particular gear, something is wrong inside the transmission and you'll have to go into it to find the problem most likely.
I think that you should take it in for service, because once you start monkeying with the gears and you don't know how to do it properly, it wreaks havoc. I have been in business for 40 years and have seen it all. Your dealer will get you going in no time flat and it will be cheaper in the long run.
personally I have never heard of a chain breaking and having any affect on the transmission and shifting. although if the chain broke and caught the shifter, it may have pulled the shifter so hard that it could have bent the shifting forks inside the transmission.. this would explain most of your problems..replace the chain,and with the bike "off" and in neutral, on level ground, rock it back and fourth about 6 inches and try shifting from neutral to 1st and then back up to neutral, and then to 2nd. keep rocking the bike back and fourth while doing this and do this WITHOUT using the clutch. If it wont go to the gears easily, the shift forks are likely bent. there is a safety switch for the kickstand that will shut the bike down if the kickstand is down and bike is in gear. if the kickstand is up and releasing the clutch shuts down the bike, the chain may have damaged that as well. Hope this helps..
That's really a good sign. It tells me that it's probably not something inside the transmission. I'd be willing to bet that it's the front belt pulley. The splines have probably worn out and the final drive gear is turning inside the pulley. I've seen this a time or two and not just on Harley's. Remember the Excelsior-Hendersons that were reintroduced in the late '90's? They had a real bad problem with that and were all recalled to replace the pulleys.
The pulley's are made intentionally soft so that the pulley wears, not the final drive gear in the transmission. The pulley is much less expensive than the gear and only a third of the labor to change it out.
This would be my "best guess". Of course, since I'm not there to look at the bike or anything, a "guess" is the best I can do. But if your transmission is shifting and not making any noises with the engine running, you bike just won't move, I'd say the front pulley is like the problem. Let's hope I'm correct.
I dont have your bike but have had this problem on a few bikes, for me it was the reservoir or master cylinder. pump your clutch for about 30 seconds before you shift into first if that works rebuild your reservoir failing that replace your master cylinder. I would wait for someone more knowledgeable to answer before you replace your master cylinder though.
With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.
If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.
Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.
If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.
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