2007 sportster 1200 xl battery runs down, It is a new battery and has been tested. Could it be ignition switch

Question edited for clarity.

Try this

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ironhead/1182089-ignition-switch-wiring.html

More here and on the images tab

https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+harley+davidson+sportster+ignition+switch+wiring+diagram

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Hi, Logan and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignition-tuner-ecm-fuel-injection/628252-2001-sporty-no-spark-at-plugs.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/fjn2ksqmw7rci0f/2002_Harley_Sportster_Service_Manual.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/owners/motorcycle-maintenance.html
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Source It From HereSource It From Here

Hi, James and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sportster-models/48977-xl1200-backfires-through-carb.html
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/content/document/view?id=90016
https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

If you are talking about when you park it for long periods of time and it runs your battery down, may I suggest getting a battery tender to keep it charged rather than removing your anti thief device.

sounds like starter is pullin' alot of juice away from the ignition..this can also happen if your battery is less than optimal...to test this try jumpstarting with donor vehicles engine NOT running...if she fires right up then try charging your battery fully and if still won't handle it, time for a new battery...good luck to you friend...Tim

It sounds like the ignition switch might be bad. Test the ignition switch for power to the ignition side.

Power to the fuel pump comes from the system relay via the fuel pump fuse. The power to the relay contact is from the ignition switch via the ECM fuse. The relay is activated with power form the ECM itself and is also controlled by the "stop/run" switch on the right handlebar control, so make sure it is switched to "run".