Been sitting all winter with stabilizer in gaswon't start.trys but won't stay running.should I try draining gas and replacing

When gasoline sits for an extended period of time the "varnish" builds up inside the carburetor and can keep your engine from running. If you suspect that this has happened, the only good solution is to first replace the carburetor, and then ALWAYS use a Fuel Stabilizer every time you buy gas for your lawn mower.

Also, at the end of a season, it is always a good idea to run the engine until it is dry and out of gas before storing the lawn mower over the winter. A fuel stabilizer should keep your gas fresh over the winter, and the lawn mower will start up quickly in the spring. If you are the cautious type, always buy fresh gas at the beginning of every season, and NEVER forget the fuel stabilizer no matter what. Gas starts turning bad after just 30 days....

Rayko

If the bike sat without being used over the winter It could be bad gas. if gas sits without being used for an extended period of time it destabilizes and gums up carborators and fuel injectors, you need to add a fuel stabilizer to gas when storing for winter. To fix the problem the gas has to be drained from tank, then refil with fresh gas and appropriate amount of carborator/fuel injector cleaner/treatment. Then start the bike and let it run it should clean itself out and start running smooth. If bike did not sit unused for winter its possible they installed the wrong plugs sometimes they talk you into spending more money on platinum or split fire/gimmick plugs (always use the exact same plug that came in the bike when it was new!!!!!)

If i understand you right the truck has been sitting for two years.If it has been sitting that long without running or moving the gas has turned to varnish...I suggest that you drain and refill the fuel tank,and replace the fuel filter located on/in the frame rail on drivers side.

I would suggest not making any changes until you find out the problem. especially if the bike was running ok prior. Was the bike sitting for the winter? did you use any fuel stabilizer? Change fuel including draining carbs. Check your air intake passages for spider webs, any mouse nests,... check air filter. change your spark plugs , especially if they look black. The condition of the old spark plugs will tell you a lot. Black indicates running too rich. Whitish or next to nothing indicates too lean fuel mixture. Tanish color is perfect. Start with the simple fixes before dropping money into her

Gas is so poorly refined these days, Youll notice the fuel stabilizer says it is only good for about 30 days. although i cant give specific instructions on how to clean out the clogged jet in your carb, if it runs on starting fluid, a clogged jet is deffinately your problem. start with the float bowl make sure it has clean fuel in it and the primary jet is usually in the bolt that holds the bowl on make sure its clean and if the float hanging down opens the needle valve and fuel flows your good to that point. if the engine still wont run, or only runs with the choke on. get some carb cleaner spray and go at it, make sure you can blow through every port and jet, BUT WATCH YOUR EYES you never know where that stuff is going to exit.

next year winterize it, drain the fuel and run it till it dies.
or i like to winterize my engines by replacing the regular fuel with a little bit of aviation fuel as that stuff can sit for years, just dont operate or mow for more than 2 or 3 minutes on it.

Good luck

You could pull the fuel line off the valve and let it drain into a can ... but I wouldn't.

Why are you draining it? For winterizing? If so ... do this instead. Get some fuel stabilizer at your auto parts store. Fill your tank and add the appropriate amount of stabilizer. Go for a short ride, enough to get the engine to operating temp. Start home. About 1000 feet from home, move the fuel valve to the off position. Let the engine run until it runs out of fuel. Do what ever you would do to store it for the winter.

Another step you could take is remove the spark plugs and shoot a little oil into the cylinders, replace the plugs, and with the kill switch in the OFF position, turn the engine over a couple turns. Some folks like to disconnect the battery, others connect a trickle charger to maintain the battery for the winter.

In the spring, get new plugs for your bike. It should start right up for you.

Thanks for your question at fixYa.com

it cat help putting in fresh fule,, but you may have blocked carb jets by now never leave a bike any lenth of time with out running the cards dry you may need to strip the cards to clean out the running jets,,dont go poking wire into the jets or you will need new ones after that use comprest air or carb cleaner

The best way will be to take the fuel line off the carburetor or off the fuel pump, if so equiped, and put it lower than the fuel tank on the mower. Drain into a gas container. You can then put this gas in your vehicle to burn, rather than let it sit and go stale over the winter months.

If you are just taking the fuel out for the winter, and not for any other purpose, you can purchase some fuel stabilizer, called "Stabil", and put about 2 oz. per gallon of gas that's in your mower tank. Slosh it around a bit, start your mower and let it run, or take it for a spin around the yard to make sure you get the stabilizer mixed in well and down into your carburetor.

If you do drain the fuel for the winter, after you are done start your mowers engine and let it run the carburetor dry. That will keep it from evaporating too bad and gumming up your carb. Still a good idea to run some stabilizer thru the carb prior to draining the tank.

try new spark plugs. and for next winter you're better off not draining everything. best thing is add some fuel stabilizer and run it a few minutes once in a while. empty lines tanks and carbs attract moisture.

Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.

If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.

You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.

Then re-assemble

This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.

You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.