Leakin Coolant...HELPPPPP!!! Just pulled out my 03 954rr for the summer starts and runs good I let idle for 30 min and turn off I walked in da house for a min and when I return to the bike I see a trial of coolant not a big trail but the bike never had any problems til now????

Is this a thermostat change your doing? Easiest way to find the thermostat housing is to use the radiator hoses. Look down on the radiator. Find the largest hose nearest to you on the top corner of the radiator. Follow this back towards the engine. There should should be a round 'Half ball' shaped mount with two bolts the pipe is attached to. I'm not sure for the Beetle but you might need to remove the alternator to get to it.
Bleeding the system is reasonably easy. Fill the coolant to the Max mark and run the engine for about 30 seconds. Turn the engine off and walk away for 10 minutes. This gives the coolant level a chance to settle. Check the coolant has not dropped below the 'MIN' mark. Start the engine and let it idle up to working temperature, About 10 to 15 minutes. This will get the thermostat to open and allow the radiator to refill. The top pipe to the radiator should become hot to show it's open. Turn the engine off and again walk away for 10 minutes. Coolant systems become pressurised when running so this lets it settle and cool down a bit. Recheck your coolant level and top up as necessary.

I would ck the cooling system, sensor, head gasket etc. Is any oil getting in the coolant or visa versa?

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The hose connects onto the thermostat housing. When coolant is drained, and upper radiator hose pulled off the housing, the housing can be removed by pulling off the two retaining bolts and lifting housing off. Then you will see the thermostat in the engine block. Lift it out to replace. Clean the mating surface of housing to block, use a new gasket for the housing to block, put it all back together. Do not over tighten the housing to block bolts or it may leak there. run the bolts down evenly until finger tight, then take a socket wrench and give the bolts a couple of turns. Not too tight-you can always turn them a little tighter if it starts to leak there after you have filled up the coolant, started the engine and checked for leaks.
Fill the radiator and the overflow reservoir. Leave the radiator cap off and start the engine. Let it idle until the thermostat opens -upper hose will get warm-coolant level should drop a little in the radiator when thermostat opens. Add coolant as necessary into the radiator. When the engine has reached normal operating temperature, put the radiator cap on and tighten it down. Shut off the engine and check once more for leaks. This procedure will ensure that no air gets trapped in the coolant system. Trapped air can lead to overheating.
Good luck.

If there is no bleeder screw near the thermostat housing, the normal process is to run the engine at idle with the radiator cap loose until the thermostat opens at 195 degrees. The excess air will escape out the threads of the cap. It could take 30 min or longer to warm up the engine.

Before even trying a new thermostat, try blocking air flow past the radiator and engine area with some cardboard in front of the radiator. If your temp. gauge shows below half all the time, try a hotter rated thermostat, one that stays closed just a bit longer. Say your t-stat is rated at 190 degrees, get one that is rated at 193 degrees- do small raises to avoid overheating-and in the summer, you may want to go back to the lower rated t-stat.. A parts store or Ford dealer could help you pick an optional thermostat.
To replace, drain enough coolant from the radiator so the level in the engine is below the thermostat housing. Take off the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. remove retaining bolts or nuts from the housing, any other obstructions, and pull the housing off, replace thermostat, clean the gasket mating area on the housing and the engine block, use a new gasket and fit all back together. Careful not to overtighten the t-stat housing bolts: the torque specs would be small-about 15-20 foot pounds of torque-just snug them down good-you can always go back and re-tighten a little if you see a leak. So, all back together, refill coolant and overflow tank, run engine with radiator cap off till engine is hot, and thermostat opens-this will helpyou bleed air out of the system. When thermostat opens, coolant level should drop a little. Shut off the engine, top up radiator and overflow tank as necessary, and replace radiator cap. Check for leaks.

idle learn procedure:

turn off all electrical items (AC fan, audio, lights, defogger, etc.)
Start the engine and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in park or Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on or the engine coolant gauge shows normal running temp.

Now let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 mins with no electrical loads. If the radiator fan cycles on during this time, you must add the fan running time to the 5 mins.

Hey Jim why havent you replaced the Ign module?It sounds typical of it. Good job checking fuel pressure BTW most dont.

It sounds like there is a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Its job is to open and let air into the manifold when the throttle is closed at idle. If it does not open, the engine dies at idle. The IAC is mounted on the throttle body. Possibly the valve is clogged or stuck, in which case it could be ok again if it is removed and cleaned. Or it is broken, and needs to be replaced. Or, there is a problem with its electrical connection, that needs to be traced. Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.

Clean the Idle air control valve (IAC), it's located by the throttle body so the best thing to do is give the throttle body a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner. Do not use carb cleaner, it's to corrosive for the gaskets used on the throttle body's. Just follow the instruction on the spray can and after your done putting everything back together. Turn the ignition key's to the run position for 10 seconds and then off for 10 seconds to reset the IAC. Start the engine and let idle for 1 min and go for a test drive. If that does not work, turn the ignition to the run position and pull the ecm(BATT) fuse out for 30 seconds and then place it back in start te engine. The engine may stall but let it, don't touch anything. Just start it again and let idle for 1 min then go for a test drive. The ECM is just relearning the sensors like the first time the jimmy was driven off the assembly line. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted be glad to get your jimmy running 100%. 

Hi
Check for plugged exhaust system. If plugged will cause overheating and misfiring of all cylinders.