Question about 2004 kawasaki KX 250 F

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Kx 250 rear caliper has lots of play in it i think theres a rubber or a spacer missing but i dont know what its called so i can order it

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If you go on bikebandit.com you can view a diagram of the rear caliper and see which part you think you need. you can also get part numbers and descriptions there, and order if you want.

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

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To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork.

To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

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1 Answer

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There should be a allen key plug to take out of the caliper then once this is out there will be another allen key head behind the plug to undo (this is the pin) just undo, take out and the pads should be able to be removed.
Pay close attention to the direction pads come out and any spacers between the pads and brake piston as you want them all back in exactly the same with the new pads they stop the pads from rattling around when riding
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1 Answer

Hello, I have a 99 evo fatboy, with 3/4" axle. I want to make sure I got all the spacers and washers in the correct order when putting back on. Axle goes in on rotor side, with adjuster on first....


Sounds like you've got it together correctly. There is no washer between the brake caliper bracket and the swingarm. You can put the axle in from either direction. We usually put them in from the left side so that we no longer have to remove a muffler to remove the rear wheel. The nut is now on that side. Just make sure the wheel turns smoothly and the brakes work correctly before taking in out on the road. If you hear a chirping noise when you shift gears, your rear belt is too loose.

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1 Answer

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Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground (you DO remember where they were a minute ago, don't you?). Place the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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This is a surprisingly simple job, even easier if you have a lift. Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground. Move the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

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2 Answers

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This is a surprisingly simple job, even easier if you have a lift. Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground. Move the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated. It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

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1 Answer

Rear wheel play


Sounds like either wheel bearins or the spacer is missing

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