Trying to replace the back tire myself. Any
This is a surprisingly simple job, even easier if you have a lift.
Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side
of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on
the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's
on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two
different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety
of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove
the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame)
but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you
remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost
or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble
the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).
rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head
bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the
disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already
changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't
be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take
exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that
side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of
spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate
what you're looking at right now.
Prior to lifting the bike,
loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of
the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at
the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making
sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and
rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the
axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices -
grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of
Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it
loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8
extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not
recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent
and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until
the RUST sets in...
With the axleshaft out, the wheel is
probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit,
and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground.
Move the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the
swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the
fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE
ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE
BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to
adequately clean after they've been contaminated. It's
a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the
mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.
the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110
ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23
nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).
Feb 20, 2009 |
2007 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe