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Putting your bike in gear without the clutch is completely possible and can be dangerous as power will be applied as soon as you do. The idea of the clutch is to apply power between the engine and drive train gradually. I typically only use the clutch on my bike when pulling out and down shifting, otherwise the rest of my shifts are clutch less. Just be careful the bike doesn't take off on you, best to always use the clutch when putting the bike in gear.
The gears on a motorcycle run in this order: first, neutral,
second, third, fourth and fifth. When you are moving, shifting up from
first gear will skip over neutral and shift you right into second gear.
The only time that shifting up from first will get you into neutral is
when you are not moving.
Pull in the clutch lever and tap the gear lever down until
it stops. This will signify first gear. Pressing the gear lever down
will shift you down one step and pressing it up will shift up one step.
Tap the gear lever up one click while still holding in the clutch. This will put the bike into neutral.
Start the bike. The bike needs to be in neutral to start.
Hold in the clutch lever and tap the shifting lever down to shift to first gear.
Release the clutch slowly and give it just enough gas to get moving.
Listen to the motor to know when you need to shift. If the
engine is making a low grumbling noise, then it will need to be shifted
down. If it is making a high squealing noise, then it needs to be
The gears on a motorcycle run in this order: first, neutral, second, third, fourth and fifth. When you are moving, shifting up from first gear will skip over neutral and shift you right into second gear. The only time that shifting up from first will get you into neutral is when you are not moving. 2
Pull in the clutch lever and tap the gear lever down until it stops. This will signify first gear. Pressing the gear lever down will shift you down one step and pressing it up will shift up one step.
Tap the gear lever up one click while still holding in the clutch. This will put the bike into neutral. 4
Start the bike. The bike needs to be in neutral to start. 5
Hold in the clutch lever and tap the shifting lever down to shift to first gear. 6
Release the clutch slowly and give it just enough gas to get moving. 7
Listen to the motor to know when you need to shift. If the engine is making a low grumbling noise, then it will need to be shifted down. If it is making a high squealing noise, then it needs to be shifted up.
clutch is out of adjustment. When you shifted down did you speed shift down or use the clutch. Maybe then clutch cable broke, or even worse internal clutch damage or bent shifting fork. If you can shift thru all your gears than shifting forks good. Than its a clutch only problem. But still can be internal damage. Good luck
There are a couple of possible problems. You can try backing off the cable tension a little bit at the shifter and running back and forth through the gears adjusting as you go till it hits 2nd coming down.You can also try backing off the High limit screw on the derailleur. This will allow the shift to start a little farther from the bike hopefully hit 2nd. Hope this helps.
When did this problem start? has the bike been sitting for any long period of time? any background on the bike leading to your problem would help. questions 1. will the bike shift into gear not running all gears check it first put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel and go through the gears shifting if that is ok your good 2. shifting into gear bike running does not want to go? grinds or lurches forward? problems from sitting for long months or yrs. sometimes when a motorcycle sits the clutch plates that are in oil will act like they are glued together ans some time can be freed after the engine oil has warmed up, in worse case you have to remove the r/h clutch cover and remove the clutch pressure plate and separate each of clutch plates and reassemble it.
When you discovered your battery was kaput, you were probably trying to start your bike at the time. I have seen on rare occasions that when this happens, the starter solenoid gets "stuck" in the "engaged" positon. Try rocking your bike backwards and forwards a few times with the transmission in high gear. Rock the bike while shifting the tranny until you get it into high gear. The with the clutch out, rock the bike and turn the engine over a few times. Shift the bike back down to neutral and try to connect the battery. Rocking the bike while in gear rotates the outer clutch drum. If the starter jack shaft is still engaged with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum, rocking the bike a bit will turn the drum allowing the spring in the starter to pull the jack shaft and starter gear back out of engagement. I hope this helps.
Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.
I have one of these and it always throws my friends for a loop. You have to push the foot brake to get the bike in park or high. It should shift very easy with the brake down, if not check if the spring didn't come off of your brake pedal. I hope this helped.