Is there a inline fuse from the ignition switch to the ignition coil?

Some have been fitted with a inline fuse , trace the hot wire from the radio to the ignition switch for a inline fuse, check the fuse with a trouble light not a meter as sometimes they go open circuit under load .

There are three fuses involved that supply the ignition switch voltage, the 120A alternator fuse, this fuse powers the smaller AM1 and AM2 fuses, then the voltage goes from there to the ignition switch

if it did not have an electric fuel before then the installation of an electric pump is a relatively easy process. If you have an electric pump already fitted but it has failed then remove it and install the new pump in its place. Take care to check all wires, fuses and relays and any pressure sensors for correct operation. Remove and blank of the opening for any mechanical pump on the engine
For new installation select an easily accessible place under the vehicle that can be protected from flying rocks and road debris. Run a power wire (red colour) from the run side of the ignition switch to the relay ( to be fitted ) near the battery or in the engine bay. Run this wire through an inline fuse close to the ignition switch to protect the circuit. attach to a coil actuation terminal of the relay.( look at the base of the relay for terminal identification. Run a black wire from the other side of the coil actuation pin on the relay to earth. Normally the same bolt that mounts the relay. Run a red wire capable of carrying 20 amps directly from the battery terminal through an inline fuse ( close to the terminal) to a power pin on the relay. Run another red wire from the outlet power pin on the relay to the electric pump. . Run an earth wire from the pump to earth.
This is a basic electric circuit for the installation of the pump. If there is a requirement for a pressure regulator or pressure sensor to control the pressure or pump operation , that control wire will be connected in series into the wire from the ignition switch so that when the pressure is reached then it breaks the circuit to the relay from the ign. switch and the pump will stop operation until the circuit is again completed. When the ignition switch is off there will be no power for the pump

I'll try to help you, John.
For spark: If your spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor are good, check the coil. Take off the negative battery cable. Use an ohmmeter and check resistance between the coil primary positive terminal and the frame of the coil-ohmmeter should show infinite resistance, if not, replace coil. Put ohmmeter positive lead on coil primary positive terminal, and ohmmeter negative lead on coil primary negative terminal-resistance should be zero or nearly zero, if not, replace coil. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to the negative primary terminal and ohmmeter positive lead to the high voltage terminal of the coil. Ohmmeter should not show infinite resistance, if it does, replace coil.
If coil is good (or has been swapped), check that coil primary has power to it with key on. If it does, and no spark, the problem could be the ignition module or the pickup coil. The ignition module should be mounted with the ignition coil. The pickup coil is inside the distributor-this pickup coil is what tells the computer (ecu) the crankshaft position, so is critical for spark timing.

For the pump: the fuel pump relay is in the power distribution box under the hood. When the ignition switch's run wire energizes the relay's coil, power is sent to the pump. You could check for a signal on the pump wire at the tank, with the engine cranking Should be a steady signal then. If not, pull the relay out to check that the power feed for the pump is still there. The power to the relay comes from Fuse link G, a 20 amp rated green fuse link. It is hot at all times, so check for a power signal on one of the relay terminals with key off. One terminal should have power. If not, check fuse link G. If it does have power, put relay back in and have someone cycle the key-relay should click-may feel or hear it. If nothing, try a different relay. If relay was good, but no power to pump, pull relay and check terminals that relay plugs into: with key held in crank, two terminals at relay should have power-the power feed from fuse link G, and now the ignition switch signal to the relay coil side. If all checks out, probably a bad pump. If you checked for power at the tank with the engine cranking, and did have power, that is for sure a pump that needs replacing.
Good luck.

Check your fuses. Some vehicles have a fuse wired inline with the ignition switch control.

On your fire wall where the wires come out of the truck you will have what is called an inline fuse. It is gone and there is no way to replace it. It will be black in color and should be on a orange wire. It is about an inch in leangth. Cut it out and put a new inline fuse you can buy at ya auto parts store for around 5 bucks. It should have a 20amp fuse to it. This should take care of ya troubles.

Hello peterrole1 ,

The easiest way I can think of is to switch the power to the coil. Put a switch inline on the positive side of the coil. When it's off no power to the coil when on the power is restored.

Regards,
netvan

Hi if you have power supply from the ignition switch to the coil then there is a problem from the switch to the coil. It may have a fusible wire inline with it which maybe broken. The next best thing to do is run a wire from the ignition switch to the coil this will get it going.

It may be better to remove the blade style ignition fuse and use a switch with inline fuse, two wires with male spade connectors to connect the two open fuse terminals.

check the coil with key on, grounds and power wires,