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jenny Posted on Dec 01, 2014
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Again maybe I said too much?? 1980 1000 xlh do I need to have the ignition module mounted to the bottom of my battery tray in order to make my electronic pick up work? My bike is hardwired I only have about 10 wires

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jfhinton45

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  • Motorcycles Master 3,506 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 11, 2014
jfhinton45
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No, you have said too little. This year is long before my expertise but what do you mean by hard wired, and I am at a loss as to an ignition module for a 1980 model that would need to be mounted to the bottom of a battery tray. It would be very surprising to me that any electronics would be mounted under a battery tray especially if there was any chance of any battery acid, corrosion from a wet lead acid battery that would go with a 1980 motorcycle etc possible to contaminate the electronic device. An electronic ignition module could be mounted anywhere it was secure, protected from moisture, battery acid, excess vibration etc and it was adequately/properly grounded.

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Make sure you give it a good tune up. Make sure that your rotor is moving when you crank it over. If it is moving then you will need to replace the distributor module.

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ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

  • 17989 Answers
  • Posted on May 11, 2010

SOURCE: need to know how to hard wire ignition module

Ford has substantially altered their 1978-86 electronic ignition test procedure. Due to the sensitive nature of the system and the complexity of the test procedures, it is recommended that you refer to your dealer if you suspect a problem in your 1978-86 electronic ignition system. The system can, of course, be tested by substituting known good components (module, stator, etc.)

This system, which at first appears to be extremely complicated, is actually quite simple to diagnose and repair. Diagnosis does, however, require the use of a voltmeter and an ohmmeter. You will also need several jumper wires with both blade ends and alligator clips.

The symptoms of a defective component within the solid state system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:
- Hard or no starting - Rough idle - Poor fuel economy - Engine misses while under load or while accelerating
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, first perform a spark intensity test to pinpoint the problem. Using insulated pliers, hold the end of one of the spark plug leads about 1 / 2 inch; (12.7mm) away from the engine block or other good ground, and crank the engine. If you have a nice, fat spark, then your problem is not in the ignition system. If you have no spark or a very weak spark, then proceed to the following tests.

Tell if you are talking about this ignition system...

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Hope this help.


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Related Questions:

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1answer

I have a 2004 Ford Ranger and when I try to remote start it, it starts but it sounds like its trying to start it again and then shuts off

If the truck starts fine with turn of the key in the ignition,look into finding the problem with the remote starter system.

Components maybe faulty or not proper.

Module.( Hidden underneath, usually somewhere under steering column area)

Receiver/Transmitter.( Mounted inside vehicle windshield )

Switch.( Under Hood,usually on the top radiator support bar )

Wiring.( all connected to the Module )

Fuse / Relay.

Remote / programming/ remote battery.

Connections that maybe loose,corroded, loose or wrongly connected.

Its also possible your vehicle might need a by pass module to connect with the remote starter module, to enable vehicle starting by remote.
.
Have a nice day.
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I have a 1980 Sportster 1000 with electronic ign, i hard wired it like a chopper, I only have generator, coil, solenoid, starter motor, on off switch, starter relay, push button start, key switch w...

Sorry, again far away from my expertise but if you have a pick up/can sensor with electronic module you should not need another electronic ignition module. I am not clear on what you do have. I also do not know why anyone would go back to points and condenser but if you did you would have to have ignition without any electronic modules. unless you tried to incorporate some kind of CDI system operated with points. I wonder if you cannot find an after market complete ignition system for what you are trying to do. I do not know how much you know or understand about primary or secondary ignition wiring or how the coil works. The coil usually has current to it at all times unless and until the points open or a transistor opens or cuts the flow of current to ground which collapses the primary current into the secondary windings which induces the high voltage to spark the plug. So, whatever system you have or devise it must do that. It must be able to control the current flow through the coil primary windings by cutting it off at the proper time to induce a spark at the correct time. Points do this by opening and transistorized or electronic ignition do this with semiconductors or transistors.
Dec 01, 2014 • Motorcycles
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Where is ignition control module on 89 cougar 3.8

pasenger side in front of front brace, behind the passenger headlight, mounted to bottom radiator support.
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FIRE and FUEL........NOT CRANKING !!!!!!!

check your ignition fuses but i think your problem is between your module and ignition switch if you got safty switches on there any one of them can cause that also.
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