Potterton Suprema status light.

You should have several resets. You have a high water temp reset, a high vessel pressure reset, a high gas pressure reset, a low water reset, and maybe a few others depending on accessories.

Witch blower is running, the inducer or the systems blower?
System blower could mean the the high limit is opening and shutting down the systems gas train, I would check this out first.

The other problem could be with the pressure switch for the gas train, it is supplied from the inducer motor, check to see if it is operating fully.

HSI boards do go from time to time, this sounds more like a system control problem.

I am going to assume that there is a pump to move the boiler water to the heat registers. If this is the case then look for an on/off switch for the pump motor or maybe the pump has seized up and needs to be replaced.

Does the red status led in the centre of the control board come on when hot water is drawn? You need to remove ONLY the front decorative cover to see the control board, two fixing screws at the base of it. If not the boiler won't fire when the CH is off.
The trigger for this is a pressure switch, replacement of which is beyond DIY scope.
FYV

This sounds serious, I would suggest you post to the Correct category this is the PC Laptop category.

In the burner compartment opposite of the ignitor is the flame sensor. seems to be dirty. one screw holds it in. Remove and clean with a wire brush.

How do you remove the front cover of a Potterton EP6002/7 timer

Your system has overheated. The thermal compound has heated and moved away from the CPU/GPU and the heat sync keep the heat from being dissipated via the heat sync. Eventually you will get the YLOD which is the equivalent of the Xbox 360 RROD. This is due to heat sysnc problems. Your CPU and GPU will more than likely need to be reflowed. I got the YLOD on my PS3 around the first of March 09. I also fixed my PS3 in about an hour. I have had no problems since. You can slow the YLOD but i dont believe it can be stopped. It seems it will eventually happen to all PS3's. One tip do not stand the PS3 on its side keep flat. This will help keep the thermal compound from moving as much when it heats up. Also i run a home based computer repair business in southern California. Feel free to email me at [email protected].

http://geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=49977&thid=601650
No power to the motor
Posted by jdw121 on May 16, 2008
When I turn the machine on (both red and black switches) the red heat light goes on but the motor does not. If I leave the unit unplugged for a half hour or more, the unit will turn on. If I turn it off and then try a few seconds or minutes, the motor will not turn on.

Hello,
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. It sounds to me that you may have a thermal switch problem – when the machine gets too hot it will shut off to protect the machine until it cools off and then it will re-start or if it gets hot or plugged. The one light could be for the heater and the other could be for the motor, but it is a good idea to check with the customer service dept @ Bissell to see if they have a better solution and also check in the trouble shooting part of the owner’s manual. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
http://www.bissell.com/ Customer Service 1-800-237-7691
Hours of Operation Monday thru Friday 8:00 am to 10:00 pm EST
Saturday 9:00 am to 8:00 pm EST
Mail To: Headquarters, Bissell Homecare Inc
P.O. Box 3606 Grand Rapids. MI 49501
http://www.a-1vacuum.com/ 1-800-657-1874 Customer Service
Thanks, Don the Vac Man
Go Ahead. Use Us.

I think I've done it - but don't take this as absolute truth.
For the Honeywell T6360B the original Potterton wiring should be rewired as follows:
Brown [Live] goes to terminal 1; Blue [neutral] goes to Terminal 2 and the yellow/green [which is not an earth but a switched live - i.e. gives live to the heating system when the thermostat clicks in] goes to terminal 3.
Obviously all done with the power isolated and when it was switched back on we had heating again :o)
It's been on over two hours now and all seems fine.