The dryer runs 10-20 minutes with heat then blows the circuit breaker. Prior to blowing the breaker it is pulling about 21-25 amps. No indication of a surge in amps before machine shuts down and breaker is tripped. A new 30amp breaker was installed. The power cord tested ok. Test at the plug show 120 volts on each leg to ground and 240 volts across both legs. Run the dryer on air only, breaker never trips. Run machine diagnostic test and it shows no fault codes.
Indicates problem motor , overheating in the wiring or excessive loads in the drier
SOURCE: sde5401ayw keeps tripping breaker
ck the element if the breaker poping as soon as you use heat dead short eather element are wire going to it
SOURCE: CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPS AFTER 5 MINUTES.
Hello dale210mile,
Based on your problem description, it is possible that your circuit breaker itself is on its way out.. ( they do go bad sometimes) but before going that route, I would make sure that ALL wiring connections are tight ( meaning shut off the circuit breaker and make sure every electrcial tie point is snug and that you don't have a 'high impedance junction' somewhere in the power feed to the dryer. When you say the heating element 'appears' fine.. not sure what that means exactly but depending on the model.. you should be able to measure its cold resistance with an ohm meter and it should fall within manufactures spec.. A visual check of the heating element really won't tell you much unless it has shorted and you see a burn mark on it.. The mere fact that it runs OK for 5 minutes and then trips the breaker leads me to beleive that it may not be ok..but it is important to rule out the other hardware ( wire terminations etc) before going that route. One test you can try.. if after you've checked all the wiring etc..try running the dryer with no laundry in it .. ( just to verify that the additional load that the motor adds to the entire current draw isn't taking it over the top...) Hope these suggestions help you zero in on the solution..
Good Luck
Rick
SOURCE: Breaker trips but is ok now on low heat
First clean the vent in the machine and the wall. Try the machine one time not connected to the wall, see if it works better. Carefully tighten the wire connections at the breaker, including the white. It is possible for a breaker to get weak. Your motor may be wearing out.
SOURCE: Dryer not heating...tumbles and blows OK - is 2 30 amp fuses enough
ELEMENT IS BAD NEED TO HAVE A SERVICE TECH REPLACE THE HEATING ELEMENT
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
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