Hello, I have an older model Murray riding mower with a briggs and stratton 13.5 HP OVH motor, Nikki carb. I just acquired this recently and after charging up the battery, it started up once and shut off almost immediately. Since then I have been unable to get it fired up again. I've changed the spark plug, and checked the carb (to what extent I know how), the floater moves freely and the anti whatever solenoid closes and opens when the key is in the 'on' position, with good voltage going to the wires. I have good spark as well. The engine turns very strong, but never fires up, just turns over and over. I don't have alot of experience in the small engine world, and I couldn't find a short anywhere, other than the headlights don't come on and I dont see any power from the wire coming out of the key switch. Any ideas? Thanks for anything that can be done to help!
Sounds like you have done a good job of trouble shooting. You should check again and see if there is spark at the spark plug. If so great. If not you need to bypass the key switch and try again. Are you getting fuel, a dirty carb can look clean, the smallest spec of dirt can get in a jet and drive you crazy trying to find it. If you are getting fuel is it fresh? Old gas is one of the biggest causes of a no start situation,change your fuel. If these things pass you will need to check compression or even pull the muffler off and look for scoring on the piston and cylinder.if this is the case you ne to rebuild the engine.these are basic quick things to check and one of them will tell you what the problem is. good luck.
SOURCE: 5 HP Briggs and Stratton Engine
use a champion RJ19LM spark plug, you will see that the engine is built by briggs and stratton.hope this helps
SOURCE: What spark plug should be used for a Murray Quantum XNP 6.5hp mow
Home Depot has the plug you need for briggs 6.5hp engines. Don't worry about it being a Murray. Buy a Briggs 6.5hp plug.
SOURCE: solenoid wires to be replaced
I posted this for a similar question.
The large red cable from the battery should go to the large terminal on
one side of the solenoid. The opposite side of the battery solenoid
connection goes to the starter So now you have a heavy cable going from
the battery to one side of the solenoid and another heavy cable (red)
going to the starter connection. There should also be a small wire
coming from the ignition switch to the small terminal on solenoid. If
there are two small
terminals on solenoid, ground the other one. To test the ignition
switch, just turn the key and see if you get 12 volts, then you know
that part is good. If not, check your ignition switch. So, back to the
solenoid-----. If there are two small solenoid terminals with nuts for
wires on the solenoid then the wires could be mixed up. So just reverse
the two small wires and try again.
You
would think they would make things easy and say on the solenoid,
Battery connection here, and Starter connection here, and ignition
switch wire here, but no, just nothing for the most part.
So
now remember this is nothing more than a lightswitch type of a
mechanism where instead of using your finger to flick the switch, we
are using a small electric charge to momentarily close the light
switch, in this case the starter motor, same idea.
SOURCE: Still no fire , toro 8/32 briggs stratton engine snowblower
Repair Manual (Antique) - CE8069 for engines built prior to 1981
Point setting should be .020" after they are full open. I am nut sure that TDC will give full open.
Armature/coil air gap should be 'the thickness of the cardboard' of the box it came in.
*note: the coating on the wire from the coil to the points should be sanded off where they connect to the points.
The voltage coming from the coil is DC and may be as much as 8,000 to 15,000 volts. You WILL know it when it has spark, as in, you may have to change your underwear if it sparks and you are touching the end of the wire.
The 'afterthought' is that an electronic coil could have been mounted to eliminate the points to aid in a sharper spark and easier starting.
Final note: make sure all snwoblower frame wiring and switches are working correctly, as this can 'kill' the spark.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
SOURCE: Engine will not fire {no spark }
Did you sand the rust off of the flywheel? where the magneto is. And did you set it right? It has to be real close to the flywheel. The thickness of two pieces of paper. And yes the pto switch will keep it from starting. If it is ingaged it wont start. Can you hear it enganging when you connect the battery? Try turning switch on and off see if it will kick in and out. With key on
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