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Oil changes are done by dealership. I have mentioned this to them and they say it is normal.Oil changes are done by dealership. I have mentioned this to them and they say it is normal.
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Make sure you're using the correct weght for the oil for your area where you ride..the wrong oil can make your scooter run hot, so can being out of time..even by a few degrees.
When you check your oil is the bike warm or cold, and is it leaning or do you stand it upright?
After posting what I thought might help with the oil problem I was thinking, (dangerous for me), and if you run hot all the time you might want to go to a cooler firing plug.
Maybe that will help.After posting what I thought might help with the oil problem I was thinking, (dangerous for me), and if you run hot all the time you might want to go to a cooler firing plug.
Maybe that will help.
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If you use a hot wire and a fuse blows it may affect other components like horn and turn signals are on the orange wire with white tracer. If you are ok with that than that should work just rember it is only 15A fuse
I would run new wires.
Base gaskets leaks, rocker box gasket leaks.
Final drive belt wear
Final drive belt sprocket wear
Loose/worn steering head bearings
Check spokes if wheels have them
Check under seat for damage to frame/surrounding area from leaky battery
Check all turn signals/horn/brake lights, high/low beam, tires
Test drive bike
Check VIN for modification
Check VIN with local police to make sure not stolen
Make sure title is clear and transferable
Harley had some major issues with these bearings in 1999-2000 when they first developed the Twin Cam. Since then, I think they've solved the problem. Sounds to me like it was just one of those things that go wrong sometimes.
What gets me is the roller tappets. I've seen them go bad in as little as 13K miles and then I've seen them run for 75K miles. Just one of those things.
If it's just a tappet roller bearing gone on you, they usually don't do a lot of damage. If one of the inner cam bearings in the case went bad, it usually puts a lot of metal in the crankcase.
Oil has nothing to do with it. That guy must sell ams oil or something..anyway its your temp sensor on your bike. change it out. You guys running injected correct?
I am assuming you mean what are the color of the wires that go to the horn. If so, the yellow/black is positive when the horn button is depressed and the black is ground. The wiring for the horn button is orange/white positive and yellow/black to horn. The orange/white wire gets 12vdc from the acc fuse.
I don't see how oil can cause an overheating problem. I think the service tech was screwing with the fuel/ignition map when the bike was on the dyno. Is it a F.I. engine? Lean mixture or retarded/over advanced timing will cause this, among other things. The dealer may have to eat the cost of repair if you can prove they caused the problem. An air cooled engine that overheats is gonna self destruct!! Get it checked out NOW.
Same oil filter, you're good to go, not to worry.
As for the drain plug, I torque everything that calls for torques. If you don't have a torque wrench, be careful when you put it on, you don't want to over torque your aluminum case...you'll strip it, and wish you had spent the money on the torque wrench.
If you plan on doing any work on your bike, get a good torque wrench. It will pay for itself and give you ease of mind knowing the job is done right.
Oil changes are done by dealership. I have mentioned this to them and they say it is normal.
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