Ignition key gets burning hot - Cavalier Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

sounds like faulty ignition barrel or switch also check the relay

Most likely the ignition switch or the rod in the steering column is sticking and keeping the switch engaged, possibly the ignition lock cylinder is sticky too. Easy to get lock cylinder out with a small punch that depresses a pin when the lock cylinder is in the run position, look under the steering column by the switch for a hole to poke the punch into and then pull out the lock cylinder.

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a jeep Silverado? is this a motor swap? franken jeep. (blue box says Cherokee)_
just one? coil?
or 2?
a key question. that.....
any coil at anytime can burn up. this is called old age or entropy.
nothing lasts for ever and for sure in a red hot engine bay.
if a 2nd one burns up,that means the dwell is too high
dwell is coil charge time.
with EFI car,s this is closely controlled at all times !!!
but there is this part called and ignitor. that can short (replaced points from IN-THE-DAY)
if the ignitor shorts, the coil primary will burn up. fast. key on.

to get help, post what engine you have, chev offers many as an option
and they all work differently (diff, EFI)

IT SEEMS MORE LIKE A CROSS WIRE ON YOUR DAHS BOARD THAN A IGNITION PROBLEM, CHECK YOUR DRIVING LIGHTS WIRING FIRST, CHECK FOR CRACK OR BROKEN PROTECION WIRES, RIGHT UNDER YOUR STERING WHEEL NEX TO THE KEY SWICHT FOLLOW ALL THOSE WIRES UNTIL YOU SEE THEY MEET WHIT DRIVING LIGHT ARNES AND DOBLE CHECK FOR BURN OR OPEN WIRES . HOPE YOU FIND IT.

Don't believe it would be the ignition switch. It sounds like the starter relay may be stuck in the on position. Find the starter relay and pull it out. One terminal would be hot at all times-use a test light grounded to engine block and probe the relay terminals. Should only have one terminal showing power. Now have someone hold the key in start position. Now you should have two terminals showing power, and when key is released to the run position, the second hot terminal should stop showing power.
If it works like this, try a new relay, or a known good one. If second terminal still shows power without key being in start (cranking) position, then it may be the ignition switch or the wiring and connections between the switch and the starter relay.
You will keep burning starters out till fixed. Starters that are run more than a few seconds at a time will get too hot and burn out.

sure its the key switch-may be the ignition switch on steering colum--or othr things like a module etc--40 and 50yrs ago it was easy to play with wiring but today becareful-cud burn computer--get a mobile mech with experience

sounds like you might have a short inside the electrical part of the ignition switch.

First check your fuel pressure it should be 41-47 psi with key on and engine off if its below 32 psi replace the fuel pump and filter.If fuel pump checks out to be good then take ignition switch out and check for burned ignition switch wires and worn ignition key tumblers and ignition lock cylinder.These cars are known for faulty ignition switches and ignition lock cylinders.Ignition switch gets to hot then it won't start until it cools off.

Yes, it sounds like an electrical problem to me. Hope it doesn't get too hot and melt something.

Hi, not sure of the electrical system of this model but I have had trouble the coils burning out in the past.
If you leave the key on the ignition system is still "hot" this can cause the coil to burn out in older vehicles. Not sure if this would apply to you truck because it may be too new to have coils. Newer vehicles have capacitor packs and I have no experience with these.Don't know if they can burn out but if you have a coil perhaps it is as good spot to start as any.
Hope this useful
Frank.