I changed both batteries on my 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel Cummins and now my electric fuel pump relay repeatedly clicks and the engine won't start. The fuel pump was retrofitted by the dealer approximately 8 months ago to an electric fuel pump. I bought an obd-II scanner and it wouldn't communicate with the truck computer. Help!
Bought a new relay-acts the same, the clicking has a steady tempo and the engine light with the fuel light also stays on when the ignition switch is on-truck has two batteries with redundant grounds to chassis and frame-lights and other things work fine in the truck. Relay fuse good. Scanner support help-line told me the truck had to be running first for the scanner to work and diagnose codes. The scanner communicated with my wifes car no problem. Could changing the batteries have blown my pcm-how could I tell if that happened? Is there a way to reset a pcm-left negatives off battery overnight with no change in condition.Bought a new relay-acts the same, the clicking has a steady tempo and the engine light with the fuel light also stays on when the ignition switch is on-truck has two batteries with redundant grounds to chassis and frame-lights and other things work fine in the truck. Relay fuse good. Scanner support help-line told me the truck had to be running first for the scanner to work and diagnose codes. The scanner communicated with my wifes car no problem. Could changing the batteries have blown my pcm-how could I tell if that happened? Is there a way to reset a pcm-left negatives off battery overnight with no change in condition.
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Re: I changed both batteries on my 2004 Dodge Ram 2500...
Sounds like a ground may not be rite--also chec the plug into the pump for corrosion--relay cud be bad-test it--ask a parts person where you bot the scanner to help you
if to much voltage surged it mite--but you used the same type batt-chec the connections on batt for titeness-its common for cables to be loose tricking the best mechs--search magicmechanic and send him the delemma--hes the best and will get back with you--let me knowif to much voltage surged it mite--but you used the same type batt-chec the connections on batt for titeness-its common for cables to be loose tricking the best mechs--search magicmechanic and send him the delemma--hes the best and will get back with you--let me know
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loosen one fuel line to one of the injectors, try to start the truck and look for the fuel to spray out of the line. it should spray rather hard if the injector pump is working right. if it just dribbles or trickles out you have a weak pump.
to dogy2003: 1995 Dodge Ram 2500's with Cummins Turbo Diesel do not have glow plugs
I agree with kious75, you need to get the air out of the injector lines. Has the truck ran AT ALL since the installation of the injector pump?
What type of additive did you put in the trucks fuel tank?
Have you replaced the fuel filter recently? Check the filter canister to see if fuel has been pumped in to it. (one way to check is to open the water/fuel seperator valve on the bottom of the fuel filter canister and see if there is any fuel or water in there)
I had a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 24V Cummins ISB engine and had trouble getting it to start. Had NO luck bleeding the injector lines. My truck was a 5-speed so I got it on dry level ground and had a friend pull me with his truck, I popped the clutch in 3rd gear and the truck cranked up beautifully. It is similar to the process you would go thru if you had an old 5-speed vehicle with a dead battery. The engine and fuel delivery system on my truck and your truck are different but similar. My problem was a bad "lift pump" which was about $150 to fix, but caused a $1500 injector pump failure. I was nervous about pull starting my truck but it worked... the truck always cranked up after that.
there is a technical service bulletin to relocate the fuel pump on this vehicle when the transfer pump needs replaced. there is the possibility the transfer pump is going bad on the 2003 now...its not good to run them low or out of fuel
Bought a new relay-acts the same, the clicking has a steady tempo and the engine light with the fuel light also stays on when the ignition switch is on-truck has two batteries with redundant grounds to chassis and frame-lights and other things work fine in the truck. Relay fuse good. Scanner support help-line told me the truck had to be running first for the scanner to work and diagnose codes. The scanner communicated with my wifes car no problem. Could changing the batteries have blown my pcm-how could I tell if that happened? Is there a way to reset a pcm-left negatives off battery overnight with no change in condition.
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