Which way do you turn to remove the axle nut to remove wheel hub on 1998 town and country minvan

YOU CAN"T is the short answer..... sorry,, RTM much>?
ive posted the free fsm like 300 times now on this car.
ever like search.?
first off, on all cars made, what the factory made or dealer sells ins one thing, what the after market does, is another.
a fact.
in fact some cars with Integrated hubs new, the aftermarket sells them and sells the rebuild kits too.
the book covers the service step by step.
what parts you use or by is your call.

now ill read that book for you.
btw I sold my 99 but not the books.
XJ jeep, the book is here, (over 301 posted,)

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

at least you said its 4wd, not all are. 2points for that.

USA XJ jeep, 1998.
1988 pages.
the trick is learning how to navigate the book , chapter #
the fact is we look first, you didn't, what is there who knows.?
maybe the last shop put on serviceable hubs. right?
if you had looked at the back side, you'd have seen 3 bolts
holding it on. and that tells you what?, that they are integrated hubs.
on new car, and at Jeep parts counters. world wide.



now lets do this backwards
lets pretend to buy the part, hark , you can online.
and see all the makers of parts aftermarket in 1 click
no kidding, a fact.
see the 8 makers here,(can be more)
all are 100% integrated, hubs, (not saying there are not other makers, or kits, the world is a huge place and I cant tell you
all answers world wide for sources)

you could off them, take them both to a shop, and ask for them to rebuild them at $100 /hr labor, but, i bet they just laugh at you.
I'm not. but why not just remove it , check it and if bad replace it.
take it to any auto-store in town, NAPA is best. and set it on the counter, and say, got this, answer yes.
how to repack unpackable bearings,.DIY.

shorter answer, R&R it.
get a shop to fix it.
buy the part first, and see what you got first.
look at it and ponder packing it.

This vehicle does not have a rear axle. It has 2 spindle hubs that are bolted into a housing with 4 bolts from behind the brake assembly similar to the hub assembly in the front except that the mount is static and has a spindle instead of a 1/2 axle joined to the transmission. To remove it, remove wheel, remove 4 bolt and and speed sensors if equipped with ABS brakes.. You may need to disassemble the brakes to get at the nuts & bolts.

The wheel bearing is pressed into the knuckle on the beetle. You will need to bring the knuckle to a machine shop to have the bearing pressed in and out To remove the knuckle you will.... 1. Remove the wheel 2. Remove the axle nut 3. Remove the caliper and rotor. 4. Separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle. 5. Remove the three bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the control arm. 6. Push the axle out of the hub. 7. Rmove the bolt that holds the strut to the hub. 8. Remove the hub from the veicle. Once you have the new bearing installed make sure you torque the axle nut to the proper space. This is very important. Failure to do so will cause the bearing to fail prematurely. If you have any questions let me know.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly, thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32 (or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.

If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends around the axle nut.----

coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.



I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.

Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison

TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL BEARING.YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.BEFORE RAISING VECHICLE OFF GROUND YOU NEED TO LOOSEN HALF SHAFT AXLE NUT JUST A LITTLE BECAUSE WHEEL IN THE AIR HARD TO LOOSEN AXLE NUT WHEN YOU HAVE HOLD THE WHEEL WHILE LOOSEN THE AXLE NUT WHICH IS TORQUE ON ABOUT 200 FT LBS.USING A SIX POINT AXLE SOCKET SOCKET SIZE COULD BE 34 OR 35 METRIC 1/2 INCH SOCKET.YOU NEED 1/2 INCH BREAKER BAR.ONCE YOU LOOSEN AXLE NUT A LITTLE THEN RAISE VECHICLE THEN REMOVE WHEEL.THEN FINISHING REMOVING AXLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE USING A PIECE OF WIRE.REMOVE BRAKE ROTOR.THEN REMOVE THE 3 HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY BOLTS. USE A SWIVEL SOCKET GOING TO BE HARD TO REACH SPOT WITH A REGULAR SOCKET. REMOVE THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY.REMOVE HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY. PUT EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA. TORQUE HUB BEARING BOLTS TO 70 FT LBS. TORQUE AXLE NUT 284 FT LBS IF YOUR CAR IS 1998 MODEL AND TORQUE AXLE NUT 100 FT LBS FOR THE 1999 TO 2001 MODELS.THE WHEEL HAS TO BE ON THE GROUND JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING.DONT LET ALL THE CAR WEIGHT DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE TORQUE WHEEL TO THE RIGHT TORQUE.LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

The front wheel bearings on this car come as a sealed unit inside the wheel hub.
things you will need to replace them
-torque specs for your cars axle nut, hub retaining bolts, brake caliper mounting bracket bolts, and wheel lug nuts.
-a socket set
-a breaker bar
-a axle nut socket
-a c-clamp
-a jack
-two jack stands

To complete the job follow these steps
1) remove the hub cap/wheel center cap
2) remove the axle nut cap (use the tip of a small flat screwdriver to pry up one edge, pull it off)
3) remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft
4) using a breaker bar style wrench (non-ratcheting socket wrench) with a helper pipe slid over the end to increase leverage use an axle nut socket to loosen the axle nut without removing it.(these are torqued pretty tight and can be stubborn, don't be afraid to use a generous amount of penetrating fluid).
5) once the nut is loose, loosen the wheel lug nuts
tip: doing steps 4 and 5 is made easier with the weight of the car on the ground to keep the wheel from spinning while you loosen the nuts.
6) jack up one corner of the car, and support it with a jack stand. lower the jack to rest the weight of the car on the jack stand, then lift the jack back up to contact the cars jacking point, without taking the weight off the jack stand. leave the jack in place as added support.
7) remove the wheel
8) remove the brake caliper from the hub (if you remove the caliper mounting bracket with the caliper still attached as a unit it's only two bolts to remove it together) hang it from the strut spring with some heavy wire or a metal clothes hanger being sure not to pinch or kink the brake line in the process.
9) remove the brake disc/rotor
10) locate the wheel speed sensor (a small electronic box located on the back side of the wheel hub) a small bolt secures it to the hub, remove the bolt and move the sensor to the side out of your way.
11) locate and remove the three hub retaining bolts (reachable from the rear of the hub)
12) remove the axle nut and use a jack stand to support the axle shaft
13) use a "soft blow" hammer (if possible) to tap on the back side at the outer edges of the hub working your way around in a circle so as to drive the hub out of its housing/steering knuckle evenly. As the hub comes out of the housing/steering knuckle the axle will want to slide with it, in turn pulling the axle out of the transmission. try not to let this happen. if necessary tap lightly on the end of the axle shaft to free it from the hub, once the hub comes loose remove it. this is where supporting the axle with a jack stand comes in handy. try not to allow the axle to scratch the hub mating surface.
14)clean the cavity that the hub came out of, remove the axle shaft support jack stand as you slide the new hub into place lining up the axle and the holes where the hub retaining bolts go (if you just shove it in, it can be impossible to turn it to line up the bolt holes) be sure that it is seated tightly against the steering knuckle, and that the axle is all the way into place. put the axle nut on but do not tighten it yet
14) replace the hub retaining bolts and torque to specs
15) replace the wheel speed sensor
16) replace the rotor/brake disc
17) replace the brake caliper and mounting bracket unit, this may require you to spread the brake pad pistons (this is easiest with a c-clamp slowly squeezing the piston open so as to not create too much pressure in the brake line or master cylinder). if a c-clamp is not available a large pair of channel lock pliers can do the job. once its in place, torque the caliper bracket mounting bolt to specs
18) raise the car off the jack stand, tighten the axle nut to snug and replace the wheel, remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground.
19) torque the axle nut to specs
20) replace the axle shaft cotter pin and axle nut cap
21) torque the wheel lug nuts to specs
this should complete one side so switch your tools and equipment to the other side of the car and repeat the process. i hope this helps

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

common hand tools and a torque wrench

I'll try to help you. If you are having trouble with 3 out of 5 studs on one wheel you may want to go to an autoparts store or Salvage yard to look at the whole hub. Usually a press is used to remove the bolts so you would be taking off the hub anyway. When you pay for 3 bolts and labor you may be better off in a Salvage yard or parts place for a different hub. The rear hub on front wheel drive cars is like a trailer axle. Much simpler to remove mounting bolts and press in new bolt. But if rear has differential(rear wheel drive) it has an axle shaft. Would be easier to grind and drill out broken stud on car. You can draw new bolt into place by placing bolt through a socket and use the wheel nut to draw the bolt into the hub.

fronts are bearing ahd hub assy remove the black center cover remove the hub nut and the hub should slide off. the caliper and rotor also have to be removed