Ok so i put new rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, and a master cylinder on my jeep then bled the brakes very well, the pedel will build up pressure then loose it this puzzles me. i did not have this problem before the work. please help me.
Same thing happened to me, we went through 3 master cylinders till we
figured it out. Each time, same problems. Apparently in the 94 jeep
grand Cherokee with the v8 drum rear had used 93 jeep grand Cherokee
parts. The rod that operates the master cylinder on the 93 and 94
cherokees are a half in. shorter than the 95. The are using parts from
the 95 in the 94 aftermarket master cylinders. We used a reman master
cylinder from a 93 jeep part number=10-2640, made by pronto and reman by
cardone. Took 4 months of research, much frustration, but that part
solved it, and works great.
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Re: 94 jeep grand cherokee laredo brake problem
If its all correct parts and adjusted right? pre fsm right?
use a pressure bleeder. system.
you have air in the system.
bleeding is an art and skil
i use 3 ways to bleed, to get it right.
pressure, vacuum and last 2 man way to be sure its correct and ZERO bubbles, be ready with 1 qt of DOT/3/4 ,
you will have lots of air in the system, and loves to hide
think like this.
you bleed top to bottom right?
and air floats up hill
see that conundrum?
that means it not easy or for the quick fix guys.
be ready to do all ways to bleed.
there are 5.
pressure top (at MC)
pressure bottom (reverse flow)
be ready, and win,...
rtm , read the manual yet on correct assembly>?
it may sound dumb but i did all the same things to fix mine and it turned out being that my brake adjuster in the rear pas side fell out. it gives those wierd results and frustrates the heck out of you
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I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted. First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper
,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the
bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor. http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html
Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.
I don't know if you adjusted rear brake shoes you didn't say. When you replace the rear shoes you have to adjust them so they won't have to travel to far to contact the drum. If they have to travel out to touch the drum that will use up the pedel travel too. Also I have seen this happen if the calipers were replaced too. It is very easy to mount them on the wrong sides. Check to see if the bleeder screws are at the bottom or top of the calipers/ If they are sticking out from the bottom then you need to switch them to the other sides. Air can only come out at the top of the caliper.
YOU NEED REMOVE A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER.THEN YOU RAISE VECHICLE SAFELY.SUPPORT IT WITH JACK STAND.MAKE SURE VECHICLE IS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.REMOVE TIRE OR WHEEL.THEN YOU NEED A LARGE C - CLAMP.PLACE C - CLAMP OVER BRAKE CALIPER AND BRAKE SHOE BACKING.TIGHTEN C - CLAMP JUST ENOUGH PUSH CALIPER PISTON BACK IN CYLINDER BORE TO REMOVE CALIPERS FROM ROTORS.TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER YOU NEED 2 OPEN AND BOX END WRENCHES ONE TO HOLD CALIPER SLIDE PINS AND THE OTHER WRENCH FOR LOOSEN CALIPER BOLTS.THEN YOU REMOVE CALIPER AND REPLACE FRONT BRAKE SHOES.IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE ROTORS JUST REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT BOLTS THE REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT THEN REMOVE ROTOR.YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOLTS WITH NEWS AND USE LOCK TIGHT.THEN YOU PUT IN NEW BRAKE PADS IN CALIPER PUT CALIPER BACK ON SUPPORT CARRIER.REPLACE WITH NEW BOLTS USE LOCK TIGHT THEN TORQUE BOLTS TO 26 FT LBS.MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER COVER IN PLACE.WHEN YOU FINISH REPLACING BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT BRAKE SHOES AGAINST BRAKE ROTORS SO YOU WILL HAVE FIRM BRAKES WHEN YOU APPLY THEM. THEN CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER MAKE SURE ITS NOT LOW. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FIRM BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING.IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS CHANGING FRONT BRAKE PADS YOU CAN GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE AND BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.
Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words.
Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak. You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.