Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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94 jeep grand cherokee laredo brake problem

Ok so i put new rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, and a master cylinder on my jeep then bled the brakes very well, the pedel will build up pressure then loose it this puzzles me. i did not have this problem before the work. please help me.

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  • pheonix86 Dec 16, 2008

    I have a 94 grand cherokee limited with the v8. I changed front brake calipers and my mechanic changed the master cylinder. car ran fine for thirty miles then rear brakes start to lock up and gradually get worse

  • ckimball03 Apr 24, 2009

    i put new rotor calipers pads and shoes, bled all air out of system.

    let sit for a minute or so,first strike on pedal goes to the floor second strike on pedal is a full brake pedal, i thought it was the abs unit so i cut it out of the system and spiced to hard lines still the same problem,put new master cylinder bench bled it,still the same,check rear brake adjustment,was good,i have done a lot of brake work and never had a problem. somebodys got to know how to solve this problem. please help if you had a 1994 cherokee with brake porblems

    you can email me @ckimball03@hotmail.com

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Same thing happened to me, we went through 3 master cylinders till we figured it out. Each time, same problems. Apparently in the 94 jeep grand Cherokee with the v8 drum rear had used 93 jeep grand Cherokee parts. The rod that operates the master cylinder on the 93 and 94 cherokees are a half in. shorter than the 95. The are using parts from the 95 in the 94 aftermarket master cylinders. We used a reman master cylinder from a 93 jeep part number=10-2640, made by pronto and reman by cardone. Took 4 months of research, much frustration, but that part solved it, and works great.

Posted on Mar 19, 2012

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  • Master
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Hi there!

Check for leaks at the slave cylinders and flexi hoses.

After several attempts of losing pressure - check the brake fluid level in the master.

If you arn't losing any fluid, You've got a damaged seal in the Master cylinder, or are drawing air in due to improper adjustment (excess travel) of slave cylinders.

Are you trying this with engine running? - How does this affect it (using servo assist)

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

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  • Jeep Master
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If its all correct parts and adjusted right? pre fsm right?
use a pressure bleeder. system.
and win
you have air in the system.
bleeding is an art and skil
i use 3 ways to bleed, to get it right.
pressure, vacuum and last 2 man way to be sure its correct and ZERO bubbles, be ready with 1 qt of DOT/3/4 ,
you will have lots of air in the system, and loves to hide
think like this.
you bleed top to bottom right?
and air floats up hill
see that conundrum?
that means it not easy or for the quick fix guys.
be ready to do all ways to bleed.
there are 5.

  1. pressure top (at MC)
  2. pressure bottom (reverse flow)
  3. gravity
  4. vacuum
  5. 2 man.

be ready, and win,...


rtm , read the manual yet on correct assembly>?
zj

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

it free, read it ,see if you messed up first.
then act.

Posted on Mar 14, 2016

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I have a 94 Jeep Cherokee Laredo and I can't figure out what's wrong with my back break light will not go off at all even when I turn the car off it still stays on

Posted on Mar 12, 2016

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I had this just happen with my 94 grand cherokee

it may sound dumb but i did all the same things to fix mine and it turned out being that my brake adjuster in the rear pas side fell out. it gives those wierd results and frustrates the heck out of you

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Did you clean the protective covering off the drums and rotors before installing ? Is it possible there is a film of oil on them ?

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Brakes go to floor i changed master,4 calipers,4 brake hoses, and all pads


Time to redo the bleeding of the system again...starting with the master cylinder...you do not have to remove the master to re-bleed it. disconnect both brake lines from the master, and start again by pushing pedal to floor, and rebleed each line at the master...this is critical to work properly...you mentioned new master cylinder, if remanufactured I would return it. As noted above, after confirming the master is fully bled...rebleed each caliper beginning with the rear, farthest away from the master...you must have "air" in the brake lines. Hope this helps.

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Brake shoes on 1987 f250 460 1987 2 wheel drive how to replace


Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor
Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.

Oct 14, 2011 | 1988 Ford F 250

1 Answer

1994 Jeep GC rear drum brakes grab on damp days and low speeds. All hardware has been replaced including new shoes and drums.


The Caliper Adjustment Lever is what adjusts the caliper - ensuring the brakes pads are in proper placement to the rotor for effective braking. The lever must be cycled in order to keep the calipers adjusted properly. The only way the lever is cycled, is by the usage of the e-brake.


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Remove the cable from the Caliper Lever. Be careful when handling and removing the spring.

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The Caliper Adjustment Lever is what adjusts the caliper - ensuring the brakes pads are in proper placement to the rotor for effective braking. The lever must be cycled in order to keep the calipers adjusted properly. The only way the lever is cycled, is by the usage of the e-brake.



Initial testing: After you have removed the ebrake cable - kneel in front of the rotor and give it a gentle shake (as if you were removing it). Do you notice any PLAY between the pads & rotor?? Make note of this.



For the TSM kit caliper adjustment instructions - visit here: Troubleshooting.htm#2 and click on "Adjust Caliper Parking Brake".

Good luck.

May 05, 2011 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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I took my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo to the Technician for a tune-up. He put new parts Brake Pads, Brake Shoes. Even I bought four new tires. Now my vehicle doesn't stop at all. The brake pedal goes...


Sounds like the master cylinder is full of air.Somebody let it run dry when doing a pad change.(maybe)Did the calipers get rebuilt or were the pistons just pushed back in?
Brakes are a sealed unit.If there is no leaks,then you must start at the 1st point of operation.The master system.Hope this helps.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cylinder 4WD vehicle. I replaced the left rear brake caliper. I bled the brakes but the ABS light and brake light won't go off. The brakes are a little...


JEEP VECHICLES 2001 MODELS AND UP HAS TO BE BLED USING A DRB BLEED TOOL.YOU HAVE TOW VECHICLE IN.MOST TIME YOU CAN TRY MANUAL BLEEDING BUT BRAKES WILL BE SPONGY AND ABS LIGHTS WILL TURN ON.THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO BLEED IN ORDER TO GET GOOD SOLID BRAKES AGAIN.

Nov 08, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

I need to know how to change the front brakes on a 94 jeep grand cherokee laredo.


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Remove the wheel(s) on the side to be worked on.

NOTE: Removing a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder using a turkey baster


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Fig. 4: Tighten the C-clamp until the piston reaches the bottom of its bore


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Fig. 5: Remove the caliper mounting bolts


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Fig. 6: Slide the caliper off the brake rotor

  1. Drain a small amount of the brake fluid from the front reservoir using a suction gun or a turkey baster.
  2. Place a C-clamp on the caliper so that the solid end contacts the back of the caliper and the screw end contacts the metal part of the outboard brake pad.
  3. Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves far enough to force the piston to the bottom of the piston bore. This will back the brake pads off of the rotor surface to facilitate the removal and installation of the caliper assembly
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Fig. 7: Support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose


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Fig. 8: Hold the anti-rattle clip while removing the outboard pad (4)


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Fig. 9: Removing the outboard brake pad


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Fig. 10: Remove the inboard pad and anti-rattle clip


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Fig. 11: Removing the inboard brake pad


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Fig. 12: Removing the anti-rattle clip

  1. Remove the C-clamp.
Do not push down on the brake pedal or the piston and brake pads will return to their original positions up against the rotor.
  1. Remove the caliper mounting bolts. Tilt the top of the caliper outward and lift it off the rotor.
  2. Hold the anti-rattle clip against the caliper anchor plate and remove the outboard brake pad.
  3. Remove the inboard pad and the anti-rattle clip. Be sure that the support spring is removed with the inboard pad.
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Fig. 13: Install the support spring onto the shoe of the inboard brake pad


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Fig. 14: Installing the inboard pad


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Fig. 15: Piston extension on new and worn brake pads

  1. Use a piece of wire to support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.
To install:
  1. Clean all the mounting holes and bushing grooves in the caliper ears. Clean the mounting bolts. Replace the bolts if they are corroded or if the threads are damaged. Wipe the inside of the caliper clean, including the exterior of the dust boot. Inspect the dust boot for cuts or cracks and for proper seating in the piston bore. If evidence of fluid leakage is noted, the caliper should be rebuilt.
Do not use abrasives on the bolts in order not to destroy their protective plating. You should not use compressed air to clean the inside of the caliper, as it may unseat the dust boot seal.
  1. If not already in place, attach the support spring to the inboard brake pad.
  2. Install the anti-rattle clip on the trailing end of the inboard pad's anchor plate. The split end of the clip must face away from the rotor.
  3. Install the inboard pad in the caliper. The pad must lay flat against the piston.
  4. Install the outboard pad in the caliper while holding the anti-rattle clip.
  5. With the pads installed, position the caliper over the rotor.
Before securing the caliper, ensure the brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touching any chassis parts.
  1. Lubricate the caliper pins and bushings with silicone grease. Line up the mounting holes in the caliper and the support bracket and insert the mounting bolts. Make sure that the bolts pass under the retaining ears on the inboard shoes. Push the bolts through until they engage the holes of the outboard pad and caliper ears. Thread the bolts into the support bracket and tighten them to 7-15 ft. lbs. (9-20 Nm).
CAUTION On models with manual/power brakes, pump the pedal until the caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated. On models with anti-lock brakes, turn the ignition ON and allow the booster pump to build pressure. Pump the brake pedal until the shoes are seated and the indicator lights turn off.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and pump the brake pedal to seat the pads.
  2. Install the wheel assembly and lower the vehicle. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.

Remember to rate this, good luck.

Nov 04, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

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1 Answer

All four brakes lock-up


could be the master cylinder or proportioning valve

Jun 24, 2009 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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