Ok so i put new rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, and a master cylinder on my jeep then bled the brakes very well, the pedel will build up pressure then loose it this puzzles me. i did not have this problem before the work. please help me.
Same thing happened to me, we went through 3 master cylinders till we
figured it out. Each time, same problems. Apparently in the 94 jeep
grand Cherokee with the v8 drum rear had used 93 jeep grand Cherokee
parts. The rod that operates the master cylinder on the 93 and 94
cherokees are a half in. shorter than the 95. The are using parts from
the 95 in the 94 aftermarket master cylinders. We used a reman master
cylinder from a 93 jeep part number=10-2640, made by pronto and reman by
cardone. Took 4 months of research, much frustration, but that part
solved it, and works great.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 94 jeep grand cherokee laredo brake problem
If its all correct parts and adjusted right? pre fsm right?
use a pressure bleeder. system.
you have air in the system.
bleeding is an art and skil
i use 3 ways to bleed, to get it right.
pressure, vacuum and last 2 man way to be sure its correct and ZERO bubbles, be ready with 1 qt of DOT/3/4 ,
you will have lots of air in the system, and loves to hide
think like this.
you bleed top to bottom right?
and air floats up hill
see that conundrum?
that means it not easy or for the quick fix guys.
be ready to do all ways to bleed.
there are 5.
pressure top (at MC)
pressure bottom (reverse flow)
be ready, and win,...
rtm , read the manual yet on correct assembly>?
it may sound dumb but i did all the same things to fix mine and it turned out being that my brake adjuster in the rear pas side fell out. it gives those wierd results and frustrates the heck out of you
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.
I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted. First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper
,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the
bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor. http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html
Time to redo the bleeding of the system again...starting with the master cylinder...you do not have to remove the master to re-bleed it. disconnect both brake lines from the master, and start again by pushing pedal to floor, and rebleed each line at the master...this is critical to work properly...you mentioned new master cylinder, if remanufactured I would return it. As noted above, after confirming the master is fully bled...rebleed each caliper beginning with the rear, farthest away from the master...you must have "air" in the brake lines. Hope this helps.
Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.
Sounds like the master cylinder is full of air.Somebody let it run dry when doing a pad change.(maybe)Did the calipers get rebuilt or were the pistons just pushed back in?
Brakes are a sealed unit.If there is no leaks,then you must start at the 1st point of operation.The master system.Hope this helps.
I don't know if you adjusted rear brake shoes you didn't say. When you replace the rear shoes you have to adjust them so they won't have to travel to far to contact the drum. If they have to travel out to touch the drum that will use up the pedel travel too. Also I have seen this happen if the calipers were replaced too. It is very easy to mount them on the wrong sides. Check to see if the bleeder screws are at the bottom or top of the calipers/ If they are sticking out from the bottom then you need to switch them to the other sides. Air can only come out at the top of the caliper.
JEEP VECHICLES 2001 MODELS AND UP HAS TO BE BLED USING A DRB BLEED TOOL.YOU HAVE TOW VECHICLE IN.MOST TIME YOU CAN TRY MANUAL BLEEDING BUT BRAKES WILL BE SPONGY AND ABS LIGHTS WILL TURN ON.THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO BLEED IN ORDER TO GET GOOD SOLID BRAKES AGAIN.