Question about 2000 Suzuki Esteem

4 Answers

How to disassemle CV joint

My driveshaft boots is broken. I have disassembled the axel side of the driveshaft but when I tried to disassemble the CV joint I couldn’t find how to do it. Can somebody give me advice about it?Thanks to everybody

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  • jeradBYM Sep 28, 2008

    I can not get the nut off the out side end of the shaft. there in some sort of bent in nut thing on it. I'm going to drill it away so that I can remove the nut. dose any know how I should go about bending the new one in.
    thank you


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I have done CV joints here at my home garage for yrs, I recently did my 02 Esteem 1.8, I have a pic of the joint completely disassemble, and I mean as far as you can disassemble it. There are basically 3 types of joints, the rezeppa, which is the outer, the tripod and double offset joints are used on the inside.
The only tools needed are a large brass hammer, a vise, snap ring pliers, and CV boot clamp pliers.
You can remove both types of inners without special tools, the shaft has an external snap ring to hold on the race. The outer requires a vise and a large brass hammer, you hold the sahft in the vise, hold and pull on the joint and hit it close to the shaft, it has a circlip like the one used in the transmission, you have to "overcome" this clip. Then you simply turn the cage so to expose each ball out of the shell, and pluck it out, then rotate the inner race sideways and manauever it out, then the cage the same way.
The inner depends on what type, the tripod type come right out once the boot is removed, the double offset type is similar but it has a large circlip which can be plucked out with a small pick, it is a very weak clip. Then the cage and ball will litterally fall apart in you hands.
Clean and degrease all parts.

Assembly is a snap, the outer one goes on first, once the cage and balls are in the shell, and greased, put the shaft in and push down while working the clip smaller until is collapses enough to fit in the groove of the shaft, then tap it on down, the clip will emerge inside the joint and snap out to full size again. Again this exactly the same principle used on the stub that goes in the tranny.
The inners are just assemle in reverse order. Install the inner race, or tripod,depending on which one you have, then the balls and outer race, push it in the sheel (tulip), install the large circlip making sure the gap fall in between a ball race, then fasten the boot.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • Vernon Bosshard Oct 16, 2008

    Oh yes, to get the shaft off, leave the car on the ground, pop off the hub cap, get a large 1/2 dr breaker bar or ratchet and 30mm socket, put on the E-brake, then put the bar on the nut and turn it, you may have to use your foot, then raise up the car, remove the wheel, the caliper, 12mm, the strut to knuckle bolts, 17mm, the tie rod, 14mm, use a jaws puller, push on the joint shaft and hit on the hole part with a hammer, don't hit the rubber boot, then remove the brake hose clip, hang the calip on the strut, pull the knuckle away while you push the CV shaft out, then hit the inner with a brass hammer to overcome the clip. On double offset type you can just give it a yank and most times it will pop out.

    Good luck.


  • Vernon Bosshard Oct 16, 2008

    Use a small punch about 1/8 in and tap the metal in.

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I had the same problem on my 2000 Suz, Est 1.8L. Finally I gave up. I put back the tire and the disk brake back on, Very important, since I caught the torn boot soon after it happened, instead of driving I towed the car to the mechanic for 60$. When you take the car to the mechanic also bring two universal C.V. boots . I got one from O'Reiley for ~14$. Bring two such boots so is easier on the mechanic, doesn't have to order them and wait for them to come. Also buy CV joint lubricant. If you are lucky, and have not heard a ratteling sound in the joint while turning corners before discovering the torn C.V. boot, he may simply have to just change the greas after hosing off with air under pressure the old junk. Have him if the joint is still fine ( no sand in between ) to also change the C.V. boot on the side toward the engine, after removing the C.V. axel. Don't do this last procedure by yourself. It is almost impossible for a mechanic at home conditions. Must be done in a shop. Have him change both boots since the life expectancy of those things, according to the manual is 120k miles. Second don't touch anuthing concerning the C.V. joint without having from a manual the torque specifications for the different bolts. If you have those specifications and know for certain how to use a torque rench, after the mechanic is done you can only try to bring the bolts chat connect the c.v. axel to the struts (the thing with the big spring) , or at least inspect them after some driving cause one of my bolts there was kind of loose from the mechanic, yet eth new c.v. boot was placed perfectly.
So, take two c.v. boots c.v. joint grease take the car tothe mechanic and have him change both.
Please don't mess with that stuff yourself , I have a very expensive original manual for the car (there is no single one from Chilton on themodel) it is vague , not only on this but also on other topics. Apparently the style of writing is more oriented toward the mechanic than to the ordinary person (like me)

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

I tried to replace a CV axle last year. I ended up just making it worse. I took it into a shop and they fixed it up. I wish I would have done that the first time. http://nationaltransinc.com

Posted on Nov 06, 2014

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I can not get the nut off the out side end of the shaft. there in some sort of bent in nut thing on it. I'm going to drill it away so that I can remove the nut. dose any know how I should go about bending the new one in.
thank you

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

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How to disassemble a cv joint


FSM
Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle and secure in a vice equipped with jaw covers.
During joint service, reference marks should be placed on the joint housing, halfshaft and joint spider to ensure that all components are installed in the same position from which they were removed. If this precaution is not observed, uneven or premature component wear may result.
  1. Remove the large differential boot clamp by drawing the clamp hooks together using tool J-35566 or equivalent.
  2. Remove the small differential-side boot clamp. Slide the differential-side boot toward the center of the halfshaft. Place a reference mark on the differential-side joint housing and halfshaft.
  3. Remove the differential joint housing from the Tripod joint spider. Place an index mark on the Tripod joint spider and halfshaft.
  4. Remove the snap-ring and Tripod joint spider from the halfshaft.
  5. Remove the differential-side boot from the halfshaft.
  6. Remove the boot clamp from the wheel-side boot.
  7. Remove the small clamp from the wheel-side boot.
  8. Remove the wheel-side boot from the halfshaft. Place a reference mark on the wheel-side joint and the halfshaft.
  9. Remove the wheel-side joint from the halfshaft by expanding the snap-ring.


Do not disassemble the wheel-side joint. If any abnormality is found in the joint, replace it. Do not disassemble the Tripod joint spider. If any abnormality is found in the spider, replace it as an assembly. Do not wash CV-joint boots or spider in solvent. Clean the spider assembly and boots with a clean, dry, solvent-free rag.


best it to buy the FSm book and see photos.
or join alldata.com and read this, same reason.

Jun 12, 2014 | 1997 Geo Metro

Tip

How to change right boot (axle side)?


My boot is broken. I have disassembled the axel side of the driveshaft but when I tried to disassemble the CV joint I couldn’t find how to do it. Can somebody give me advice about it?
Thanks to everybody



on Jun 14, 2008 | 2000 Suzuki Esteem

1 Answer

What are the symptoms of a bad CV joint on an all wheel drive Volvo


if your cv joint is going bad check the rubber boot located on your front axel if there is a tear in the boot once dirt gets inside the boot depending on how long youve had the noise the cv joint will have to be replaced sometimes the first signs are a clicking noise when turning coming from the cv joint if you catch it early you may get away with just replacing the boot there are two ways of doing this depending on the vehical one is to buy split boot it wraps around the axel and is held together with tiny bolts and nuts the axel doesant have to be removed useing this type you still have to remove the damaged boot and clean the cv joint thoroughly i suggest useing brake parts cleaner be carefull not to get it on any rubber parts or lines then before installing the new boot pack the joint with grease and the boot the other way the old joint must be removed you will have to remove the complete axel assemble the new joint and axel will come as one unit depending on the vehical your balljoint or joints may have to be removed also this method to me is the prefferd way this will assure all is new its more involved but better in the long run

Jan 05, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I cannot get the cv joint out. how is the inner joint disassembled. I pulled on the joint and the joint extended and now will not go back in. I am assuming I can disconnect the inner join so I can...


Ok to get the inner joint out you need to stick a pry bar in between the transmission and the inner cv joint. When you pulled the joint to remove the axle the bearing in the joint came out of position. You can put it back by pushing it into place.
nvannoy.jpg

Dec 15, 2010 | 2003 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.


it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

1 Answer

How do I change the CV joints on a 1.8TD Ford Escort P reg


Hi mate

With the driveshaft removed from the vehicle.

Undo the the retaining straps on the CV boot.

Pull the CV boot up the driveshaft a little way, enough so you can clean all the old grease away.

Now look into the CV joint an locate the circlip that locks the CV to the driveshaft.

Now put the driveshaft into a vice with the CV joint facing downwards.

Now open the circlip and at the same time strike the CV joint. You can do this with a ballpin hammer if you are scrapping the CV joint. You can get a helper to stike the CV joint with a hammer while you keep the circlip open.

This will release the CV joint form the drive shaft.

Now clean the driveshaft of any old grease and fit a new CV boot if needed.

Now reverse the driveshift in the vice and fit the new CV joint. It will tap on with no trouble but do not damage it. Test it is on by trying to pull it off with your hands.

Now fill it with new grease.

Fit the CV boot to the CV joint and secure it to the CV joint.

Now it is ready to refit to your vehicle.

I trust this solves the problem for you.

Ray


Sep 08, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

My jeep makes a knocking sound when in 4 wheel drive


Check the axel u joints driveshaft u joints or cv axels witch ever is aplicable.

Jan 26, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

2 Answers

97 toyota celica outer cv boot replacement passenger side


have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol

Jan 25, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Celica

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