The left front tends to skid on left turns even though turnning right at a much higher speed no skidding occurs

Hi,
It splits the brake load between left front & rear right and right front & rear left
and
it uses the ABS system to proportionately reduce brake pressure to a wheel which is at the limit of its adhesion.
So, if the brake is about to lock & skid the wheel, the DSP-system reduces the pressure to that wheel, so that it continues to brake a little, but doesn't skid & lose braking-effect altogether.

I would need to do the testing to have any idea what the issue is.

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exhaust padding. its a white fiberglass cloth.

Ask this question in the car section. and change your wheel sensors.

Halfshaft -sorry but the diagrams didn't paste into the fixya.com window, just the text. Also, this was for a 3.2L engine.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
   this section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Front wheel
     
   • Radiator skid plate
     
   • Transfer case skid plate
     
   • Brake calipers and mounting bracket
     
   • Brake rotor
     
   • Wheel speed sensor
     
   • Steering knuckle
   
   
3. Support the axle housing with a jack. Unbolt the axle mounting bracket and
   remove the halfshaft/bracket assembly.
   To install:
   
   
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • Axle/bracket assembly. Tighten the bracket flange bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116
     Nm) and the bracket mounting bolts to 112 ft. lbs. (152 Nm).
     
   • Steering knuckle
     
   • Wheel speed sensor
     
   • Brake rotor
     
   • Brake caliper and mounting bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 115 ft.
     lbs. (155 Nm).
     
   • Transfer case skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
     
   • Radiator skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
     
   • Front wheel
     
   • Negative battery cable
   
   
5. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 1: Exploded view of the left halfshaft, axle shaft and
   axle disconnect
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 2: Exploded view of the right halfshaft and mounting
   bracket
   
   

Good Evening. Unfortuantely there is no easy path to a right answer here without removing the skid plate. In front of the engine are transmission cooler lines and other miscellania. The best advice i could give you is take down the skid plate and have a can of brake cleaner handy to clean everything off while you have it turned off then have someone turn it on for you so you can visually see where it is coming from. Hope this helps and if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

I put a nylon skid block on one off a skateboard, your other options are , Higher profile tyres, taller springs, a proper skid plate or taking all kerbs and speed bumps at a sharper angle not square on.
Have a look on youtube at my vid " MGF getting stuck" and you will see an extreme example of your problem. This guy on second attempt actually made it under his own power by taking a sharper angle.
Hope this helps

Most likely a bad wheel speed sensor or wiring harness issue.

Most vehicles are two wheel drive (2WD) and some are four wheel drive (4WD). All have differential gearing this means that each wheel can turn at it's own speed and this is essential when cornering as the inner wheels traverse a shorter path than the outer wheels. Without it the outside tyres would all tend to skid to some extent as they try to rotate on a surface which is moving faster or slower than the tyre's rotation speed. This is known as lock up and it causes excessive tyre wear, fuel consumption, steerring and suspension component wear and an unpleasant snatchy ride.

On off-road surfaces, lock up (differential lock) is a good thing as any tyre which loses traction does not cause the others to do so. As the surface is slippery or unstable the other tyres can easily skid against the surface without excessive wear whilst cornering.