New clutch, new slave cylinder, bleed clutch but gears still grind when trying to put into gear unless double clutched. Any other adjustments or suggestions for repair? [email protected]

either re bleed it correctly or bad cylinder.

its really a Chevy S10,
the only Japan part is the name sticker.
so what engines there?
hydraulic clutch is auto-dusting
after all air is bleed out of the system

diagnosing clutch can be bit tricky
but here are those tricks (blew many up racing)
the slave has a rod to a lever,
if bleed ok, can be hard, as the tubes go vertical
like a motorcycle or aircraft
bleeding is hard. (on all)
(bubbles float up as you force them down, dang a pain) (reverse brake bleed kit a godsend)

once done bled, i check the slave stroke distance.
its about 1 inch stoke,(2 men test)
no slack there, due to the hydraulic auto adjust.
see slack yell load, air in lines. or rod fit wrong.
so it moves about 1 full inch on the outer fork tip
PEDAL to the floor,
if yes and clutch drags, the clutch is bad.

one acid test of clutch
is REVERSE, it's a NON Syncrho mesh gear, a real gear. and fussy, (nice for testing, I learned long ago)
and will grind at the first bit, of clutch drag.
its like the coal miners canary bird, help me...

I love clutches, learned to drive in 15speed dump truck.
it had crash boxes... 5x3
double clutching all gears.all day long.

So you installed a new transmission and a whole new clutch kit? Did the kit include the pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and slave cylinder? Did you bleed the slave cylinder? The low and soft pedal is a clear sign that there is air in the hydraulic system. The loud noise after that tells me you're either grinding the gear trying to shift or there is a problem inside the transmission itself. If you installed everything correctly and torqued all the bolts correctly in the clutch assembly and transmission, then try bleeding the slave cylinder again, sometimes air gets trapped in the cylinder and it's hard to get out, If you let the clutch master cylinder run dry while you either had the clutch apart or while you were bleeding the clutch, then you have to start from scratch and re-bleed the whole system.

to answers 100% accurately id have to drive it.

but here in net bunny land, cant do that!
but can ask you to post full symptoms.

(trans or clutch issues)
question 1: can you start car in any gear. clutch held to floor, even reverse )
Q2: once started, can you always shift to reverse (the tricky one, gin?) and not grinding and no complaints,balking?
yes/no
yes then your transmission fluid is low.
or worse.
Q3:
is the clutch MC full? and does not drop day by dead week by week???


q4: new clutch
all 5 parts? or more?
PP pressure plate
disc.
throw out bearing
flywheel pilot bearing (oops?)
new slave cylinder? ,mc set

the slave and mc are a fixed pair in 2002.FSM C6-p9
and on my 2008

the slave and MC are one part and pre filled.
there is no bleeding steps only top offs.

if the clutch drags,(seems it does)
put in a new MS/SLAVE first.
avoid the 10hr labor. if a new clutch, 4wd.


I have lots more to ask.
trouble putting
so you are driving
and shifting and moving
and 1>2 shifts are what, grinds, or balks.

can you start engine in any gear (clutch to floor)

can you shift any gear parked ,running, and clutch to floor and not moving. including REVERSE ?
if all are good, cept the 1>2 upshift
that means the clutch is not dragging.
and the #2 synchro ring is worn.
or running the wrong trans fluids.

the newer transmissions are very tricky here.
some are very upset with wrong lube. (or too low or is not black as tar)
or mixing 2 brands, or using synthetic and its so slippery the syncrho fails, (cured many like this)

if all this is true, and clutch don't drag (ever)
then get the car to jeep and have them drain it and fill it with the correct lube and win.


now answer 3:
it might be just the shift linkage messed up
if the 1>2 change balks. (not grind)
on mine boxes i can hear the synchro's spin up.
i can feel them engage, if i cant feel that
then the linkage is bad.

the word trouble does not say what that means.
define trouble putting....

find a shop, a Service tech, that owns a m/T box.
and win.
Some with a/t are clueless...
ive blown more clutches racing than many ever drove.
IMO, and remember it COST YOU NOTHING to ask. (I'm retired early, gin!)

Hopefully you got a warranty with the clutch job, so I would take it back to that shop first. If you have someone else work on the truck the first shop is off the hook for responsibility. Its possible the clutch has failed, or you have developed a new problem.

Did you bleed the slave cylinder? Also, check pedal free play (about 1/2 inch) and pedal height (not sure on your Rav, you'll have to check with Toyota).
Only first gear, or difficulty going into all gears?

some aftermarket masters don't push enough fluid to the slave to disengage the clutch even from the same maker

check shift fork adjustment. make sure you bleed the slave cylinder.also check shift cable adjustment.

i don't know if you went back to look at my post, but i fixed my car by putting in a new slave and new master cylinder and then tightening up the clutch petal. it does NOT grind anymore! and my baby is like new! it cost me about $90 through napa auto parts. $66 for the master and $16 for the slave and it comes with everything you need. hope this helps you!

im a little confused re clutch replacement normally in order to start a manual transmission car the clutch pedal needs to be pressed down all the way before the car will turnover . as you say it will start but you need to push down clutch am i right? but when you try to put it into gear grinding ?wont go in to gear yes is this whats hapinin?ok the way that these clutches work nowadays is that there is a system similar to brake system there is a resivoir for the oil and a slave cylinder that pushes the clutch throwout leaver so that the gears can be changed did you see a small cylinder that pushes against the clutch lever? does it have a hose coming from it ? this system needs to be bleed just like the brakes on your car . find the resivoir small resivoir open lid and fill with brake fluid now go under car and find slave cylinder it will be somewhere near the transmission and bellhousing there will be a hose attached there will also be a bleed nipple attached you need to open this a few turns and let it drip dont press clutch pedal when bleed screw is open it will bring air into system , you want to remove all the air in the system so get a friend to go into car and pump clutch pedal then hold it to the floor while its being held down you open bleed screw until clutch pedal hits the floor tighten bleed screw then tell friend to pump up again do this 5 or 6 times making shure clutch fluid level doesnt drop down too far keep topping it up with the fluid that squirts out while bleeding this way you dont waste fluid as well as keeping fluid from hitting the ground .anyhow after trying this slave cylinder bleeding proceedure .try to see if car will go into gear . also see that there is no adjustment on slave cylinder . also i hope that you put the clutch facing the correct direction flywheel side towards flywheel . let me know how you do with this project