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How to replace the left rear door electric window cable and a picture of the cable routing and adjustment. The cable fell off with the window in the down position.
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The electric window could either be the fuse,switch, or window regulator motor at fault..Sometimes the window motor electric plug can vibrate loose or become loose from door slamming..Also the switch can become loose as well or contamination if you are lucky..You will have to remove door panel to inspect these components..and fuse panel..The light could be a faulty bulb..Check and replace bulb..before involving the signal indicator switch lever...If bulb is at fault go ahead and change bulbs at both rear sides..Do not try to repair signal switch because of air bag..If you can hold down on the turn signal switch and it works the switch is at fault...
You likely have a bad window regulator(fancy name for the electric motor and the cable mechinism that moves the window up and down.
I have had to replace both rear window requlators in my 2003 GMC Envoy, Terrible engineering on the window requlator. There is a nylon wheel on the electric motor, that nylon wheel winds up the cables to raise/lower the window. The edges of the nylon wheel (drum) wear out and the cable derails. Running the window motor just makes a "rats nest" out of the cables, you will likely have to replace the whole regulator. The inside door panel is held on by screws, in door handle and then clips around the perimeter of the pannel. After you remove the inside door panel there will be a paper panel siliconed to the door frame. You will have to be very careful removing it as it tears easily. I replaced my requlators several years ago. The left and right door went out within a couple of months of each other. At that time the only place you could get the rear doors was the dealer($200- $230) . The front doors had aftermarket available. I would assume with such a poor design, there are sure to be less expensive aftermarket parts(that are likely better) available.
If you are mechanicaly inclined, should be able to replace in about 1-2 hours.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Lower the window to the down position.
Remove the door trim panel.
Remove the door water deflector.
Remove the window-to-regulator bolts.
Push the window to its full up position and tape in place.
Remove the nuts from the regulator cover plate.
Remove the regulator drive cable from the rear of the cover plate and remove the cover plate from the door.
Remove the nuts from the regulator cover plate
Disconnect the electric connector from the motor.
Remove the regulator bolts (1, 2, 3).
Pivot the regulator (right door clockwise, left door counterclockwise) and slide the assembly out of the door.
Remove the motor/regulator from the vehicle.
Remove the regulator bolts (1, 2, 3) and remove the motor/regulator from the vehicle
To install:
Partially install the three bolts (2) to hang the regulator in the door.
Position the regulator in the door and hang it in place.
NOTE
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the regulator bolts and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the electrical connector to the motor.
Slide the window down to join the regulator.
Install the window to the regulator bolts and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the regulator cover plate nuts and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the regulator drive cable (1) to the rear of the cover plate.
Install the regulator drive cable (1) to the rear of the cover plate
NOTE
The regulator drive cable goes into position (2) for the coupe and position (3) for the sedan.
Check the operation of the window.
Install the water deflector.
Install the door trim panel.
hope this helps you
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please rate as solved if this is what you need. You will need to borrow a heavy duty riveter from autozone or wherever you buy the lock cylinder from.
Removal
NOTE: The rear door window glass must be completely raised. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Remove the rear door trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 .
Trim Panel —Rear Door, Expedition
Removal
Remove the power window switchplate (14524).
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Remove the rear door handle trim cover.
Remove the rear inside door handle.
Remove the door handle bolt.
Remove the rear door trim panel screws at bottom of panel.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the rear door trim panel, do not pull directly outward. Lift upward and then outward to remove the rear door trim panel (27406).
Remove the rear door watershield.
Disconnect the power door lock actuator electrical connector.
Drill out the power door lock actuator rivet.
Remove and discard the screws.
Remove the power door lock actuator.
Disconnect the power door lock actuator rod.
Installation
NOTE: Use new screws when installing the rear door latch. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
unfortunatly there is no diagram or actual repair for a window regulator. the only fix is to replace the regualtor assembly. ive replaced hundreds of them at the jeep/chrysler/dodge dealer i work at
The bad news is when the cable comes loose it normally means some plastic retaining part has broken, so you will need a new or at least a replacement regulator (which is the cable mechanism that rolls the window up and down). This will bolt both to the door and to the window. I would leave the window in the door and just tape it up once you have it unbolted from the regulator.
My drivers side quit working. I took the door/window assembly apart and found that a small plastic clip had worn/broken. I modified it to hold the cable securely. The problem I had was knowing how the cables routed in the door and window assembly to put it back together. I found an online picture of a new one and routed my cables per the photo. It has not given me problems since. Time invested, about 3 hours. Cost was $0. If you buy a new one, cost is about $80 (online) and time would be about 2 hours. If you have the $$, buy a new one.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the rear door trim panel, do not pull directly outward. 
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