I have a 1989 mustang LX with a carberated 302 engine. The alternator will not charge the battery. I replaced the alternator and still have the same results. The blinker lights illuminate on the dash when the lights are turned on. I can't find the short.
disconnect the battery,and put a voltmeter between the two disconnected parts ie battery and cable.that voltage will tell you how much voltage is being drained.go around the car,disconnecting things until short is found.simple way to check for charging is to put voltmeter across battery,should read about 13.2,start it up and rev a bit,should go up to about 14.5 volts .that means alternator charging.also put voltmeter across battery and wind engine over,if it drops below 10v,battery is suspect.also check your earth lead,ideally should go directly to the motordisconnect the battery,and put a voltmeter between the two disconnected parts ie battery and cable.that voltage will tell you how much voltage is being drained.go around the car,disconnecting things until short is found.simple way to check for charging is to put voltmeter across battery,should read about 13.2,start it up and rev a bit,should go up to about 14.5 volts .that means alternator charging.also put voltmeter across battery and wind engine over,if it drops below 10v,battery is suspect.also check your earth lead,ideally should go directly to the motor
I pulled the battery cables off and the voltage is .05 volts. With the car running, the volts are reading 12.2 volts and 12.1 when I rev it up. I changed the alternator and also had it checked. Still have the same problem. I checked all of the wiring from the alternator and plugs to make sure there were not broken wires. I replaced the 4awg wire going to the starter due to it grounding out on the header.I pulled the battery cables off and the voltage is .05 volts. With the car running, the volts are reading 12.2 volts and 12.1 when I rev it up. I changed the alternator and also had it checked. Still have the same problem. I checked all of the wiring from the alternator and plugs to make sure there were not broken wires. I replaced the 4awg wire going to the starter due to it grounding out on the header.
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Re: I have a 1989 mustang LX with a carberated 302...
Make sure the alternator main wire(the large one) is showing 12 volts,with the key off,if it is not,this is the problem,just run a wire as big,or larger than the one that is on there already.
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There's two hoses that run from the front of the engine to the firewall; those tubes sticking out through the firewall are your heater core connections. You'll have to pull the dash out to access the heater core for replacement; once you get the dash out you should be able to figure the rest out.
There are three kinds of 302s made from 1982-2001.
5.0L HO This engine was used in 1983-1995 Mustangs, Mark VII Lincolns, and some T-birds and Cougars. All Explorer 5.0L engines are 5.0L HO engines as well. They use the 351W firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Except for the 1983-84 Mustangs, all of these engines are roller cam equipped. They use a reverse rotation water pump and front cover. The 1994-5 Mustang and all Explorers use a unique front cover and water pump.
5.0L Full Size Car This engine was used in 1982-1990 Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis. They use the 289-302 firing order, 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Most of these cars are not roller cam equipped, however sometime in the early 1990s they started using roller cams but retained the 302 firing order. They use a standard (clockwise) rotation water pump and front cover.
5.0L Truck (except Explorer) These engines are similar to the Full Size Car engines, except they use different intake manifolds and camshaft profiles. They also use the 289-302 firing order, 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. They also began using roller cams sometime in the early 1990s. They use a reverse rotation water pump and front cover.
sounds like you just need a new battery... if the car starts when you're charging, the starter is most likely just using the power from the charger (or the charging battery). And if it continues to run once you've started it, then the alternator is fine.
It's possible that when you installed the new lamp socket that you created a short in the battery, or that the battery is just old and needs replacing... but replacing it is definitely where i would start.
While it is possible, it is not probable that it is the timing chain. It is extremely rare that a timing chain would go out on a 5.0. I would look towards spark and fuel delivery in that order.
keep in mind, your engine use both source of power to run, one from the battery and one form alternator. If the alternator is good, your engine should stay running regardless if the battery is good or bad, the alternator should keep the engine running. It sound like to me the alternator is faulty not charging your battery or keeping your engine running, even though the alternator is brand new does not mean is good. My guess I would take the alternator back and get another one. the reason why your car ran for 25 min and die it has no source of power to keep the sparks going although the alternator should keep the engine running and at the same time charging the battery but is not.
disconnect the battery,and put a voltmeter between the two disconnected parts ie battery and cable.that voltage will tell you how much voltage is being drained.go around the car,disconnecting things until short is found.simple way to check for charging is to put voltmeter across battery,should read about 13.2,start it up and rev a bit,should go up to about 14.5 volts .that means alternator charging.also put voltmeter across battery and wind engine over,if it drops below 10v,battery is suspect.also check your earth lead,ideally should go directly to the motor
I pulled the battery cables off and the voltage is .05 volts. With the car running, the volts are reading 12.2 volts and 12.1 when I rev it up. I changed the alternator and also had it checked. Still have the same problem. I checked all of the wiring from the alternator and plugs to make sure there were not broken wires. I replaced the 4awg wire going to the starter due to it grounding out on the header.
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