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Car stalls and quits in cold, damp weather until it reaches operating temperature. Usually happens 3-5 minutes after trip begins. Quits at stop signs until vehicle has warmed up. Runs OK after that. Could it be the fuel pump or fuel filter? We have always used premium fuel.
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The temperature gauge on ALL car should always start at the extreme cold end, because of the accuracy range of the sensing device.
Your sputtering and stalling might be a automatic choke problem.
Knowing this will happen you can brake with your left foot and press the accelerator just enough to prevent the stall, when you have to stop.
Get a can of carburetor cleaner, take the filter / intake cowling off, and spray all moving parts of the carb really well.
change the thermostat, sounds like it could stuck open and wont allow the engine reach operating temp, also test the constant control relay module located to the right of the battery as your facing the front of the car, also test coolant temp switch it might be defective and producing a high voltage that would cause the fans to constantly operate no matter the temp. Hope this helps
WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS PCM LOSES IT MEMORY INCLUDING ENGINE IDLING.THE COMPUTER WILL HAVE TO RELEARN THE OPERATING VALUES. IF CAR DOES A LOT OF STALLING AT STOP LIGHTS AND STOP SIGNS. GO BY FORD DEALERSHIP LET THEM REPROGRAM THE PCM.PROBABLY CHARGE YOU $35.00 DOLLARS. TO REPROGRAM PCM.
I'd have fuel pressure tested. I had a 95' did same thing. Cold winter day, worked fine, as soon as it got warmer, or hot out, it would quit, and re-start 20 minutes later and go for a distance then die again. If I parked in the shade on a hot day, I'd get further before it quit for the first time. I started carrying a fuel pressure gauge with me. Cool in the morning my fuel pressure was up to spec @ 49-50psi. Once it got warm/hot out and it died, Hooked up gauge and it was at 2-5psi. Let it sit and cool off 20-30 minutes, pressure would jump back up and run good until fuel pump got hot again and then pressure dropped off and car quit. It sure sounds like the fuel pump, but the hard part will be getting the car to the shop at the right time, or they will need to let it run on the lot until it quits to confirm the pressure drop. One thing you can try is when car quits, have a can of WD-40 or quick start with you and a screwdriver. Loosen the clamp on the air intake hose where it connects to the front of the throttle body and pull it off. With vehicle off, turn throttle linkage so the plate opens up enough to spray WD-40 a second or 2 in the throttle body. Then try to start it. If it starts and runs momentarily, then you can be pretty sure it's fuel related and my guess is the pump needs replacement.
It is possible that your thermostat is stuck open. Normally, the thermostat remains closed when starting cold, confining coolant to the engine block and cylinder head until it heats up. Once the coolant in the block is warm (usually within 10 minutes), the thermostat begins to open and let coolant flow into the radiator to cool it down some. A properly operating thermostat will continue to cycle until the coolant reaches the operating temperature of the thermostat--usually around 180 deg F. Then the thermostat will continue to adjust its opening to maintain that temp.
Thermostats can get stuck in both closed and open positions. When stuck closed, the engine will quickly overheat. When stuck open, the engine will take forever to warm up--especially in cold weather because the coolant is continually pushed into the radiator and cooled off before it ever has a chance to get warm. Changing the inexpensive thermostat may help correct your condition.
The first thing to check when this happens is the thermostat. They are about $10. They are located on the engine at the beginning of the lower or upper radiator hose. They are usually mounted inside a round, bowl shaped housing. It blocks the coolant from getting out of the engine until the engine is up to operating temperature. If it's stuck open, the engine will never reach operating temperature in cold weather. Does the temperature meter on your instrument panel get up to the normal area? If it stays down on the cold side, I would say that confirms this theory. If the engine gets up to normal temp, there may be something wrong inside the heater box. There may be a flap that is not opening or closing. If that is the case, a seasoned mechanic will need to take a look at it. Hope this helps.
usually when this happens its either the: spark plugs/ignition coils; melted catalytic converter, or a blown engine. however it could be other things such as a bad engine temperature sensor
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