We cannot get the key out of the ignition and it is stuck on acc. and has run the battery down. What in the world is going on?

check fuses yet

You have a safety switch under the gear shift ,pool the cover and move it with screw driver with the ignition on and move the gear shift from park,all the best.

Your car has several different ignition positions. They each offer slightly different functionality.
Off: In this position, the engine is off, and so are your electronic accessories (unless the delay has not expired yet). You can still turn on lights (headlights, interior lights, etc.).
ACC: This is the accessory position. Turn the key to ACC if you want to listen to the radio, play a CD or use other accessories without cranking the engine.
On: In this position, all of the electronics should come on. This is also the position that the key will return to after cranking the engine.
Start: Turn the key to this position to crank the engine. Let go of the key when the engine is running and the key will return to the on position.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_switch_positions.jpg

I use to own a car that had an ignition that was ACC - OFF - ON - START.

Try turning your ignition one position clockwise and see if the radio turns off and the key comes out.

https://hackadaycom.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/ignition.jpg?w=450&h=338

when you turn key to acc pos that is telling the ignition to go into a accessory mode which runs the radio,wipers etc... but it doesnt allow the ignition circuit to run, and the key in most vehicles will not be able to come out,this is a security protection so that you do not leave accessories on that will drain the battery. The ignition key should only be able to be removed in the OFF position.

To unlock and take off the key, try disconnecting the battery; about the charge problem, its possiblke that you have any loss wires from alternator, or the alternator self go to bad.

Keep us updated.

us a screwdriver to turn to off position and put key back in should be fine

It is possible that your problem is with the shift lock actuator. Charge the battery up. For safety sake charge the battery outside the car. If your ignition is on you don't want to hook up jumper cables. If you do it wrong you can spike the computer. Once you have a strong battery put your trans down in to low and then firmly back into park. The shift lock mechanism is meant to keep you from starting the car without putting your foot on the brake, but if it fails it can be engaged and not let you go back into park. Use a test light to check all your fuses if it still will not work. If that does not do it, start it in neutral and take it to the garage.

Hope that helps.
Rich

spray lock lubricant into lock

The key switch usually breaks or wears out and makes contact. It is on the lock cylinder. This would cause the chime to not come on, or stay on. Sounds like the switch is bad.

1997 F-150/250 Warning Chime, Key-In-Ignition The key-in-ignition chime warns that the key is still in the ignition when the driver's door is ajar. The key-in-ignition warning chime will sound when:

• GEM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or ACC position and the keys are in the ignition.
• CTM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK, ACC or RUN position and the keys are in the ignition.

The key-in-ignition warning chime will stop sounding when:

• Driver door is closed.
• Key is removed from the ignition.
• GEM: Ignition switch is switched to the RUN position.

The key-in-ignition warning chime inputs are:

• Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
• Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on RUN/ACC input only).
• Key-in-ignition switch (grounded with key-in-ignition, open circuit with key-out).
• LH door ajar switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).

This is a pic for a 98, could not find one for 97 which may be the older style which is more prone to break.

Try replacing the ignition switch.