Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

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We cannot get the key out of the ignition and it is stuck on acc. and has run the battery down. What in the world is going on?

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The battery needs a full charged to have the ignition keys pulled out. The other thing to that can cause the Ignition keys not to release.

In the Cobalt the problem is that there is a small bar in the shifter that is supposed to hit a micro switch and that bar can came out of place.
It will not hitting that micro switch to allow the ignition to release the key when the car is in park.
What to do is tear the center council apart and pull the whole shift mechanism out and reposition the bar and put it all back together. Yes it's a pain and time consuming
Good luck and hope this helps, and be careful not to damage the ignition lock, you could damage the wires in the ignition lock for the anti theft.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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In 2005 chevy cobalt, their a small button under the steering wheel, open the small cover and press that button towards driver side door and you will be able to remove the key

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

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1 Answer

I can't find the fuse for the power windows on a 1998 Lincoln Navigator


All the other windows work ? Not a fuse , one fuse powers all the windows . Test for B+ voltage at the switch an the window regulator would be the proper diagnostic procedure . Do you own a volt meter ? know how to read a wiring diagram ? how to do basic automotive electrical testing . The Faint click you hear is probably a relay , which means the GEM - genaric electronic modual is energizing the window relay . The windows are computer controlled .

The GEM will activate the OTD Relay until one of the following conditions is met:
  • The LF regulator control switch is pushed to the UP position.
  • The LF regulator control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the down position (first detent) or one touch down (OTD) position (second detent).
  • Seven seconds have elapsed since the OTD was initiated.
  • A window regulator electric drive stall condition is detected on the one touch down sense line inputs.
The UP window operation is not controlled by the GEM. The feature is activated when the delayed accessory is active and the LF window regulator control switch is pressed to the UP position. The switch provides delayed accessory power to one side of the motor and ground to the other side through the one touch down relay. The one touch down relay is not active when the LF regulator control switch is in the UP position.
Passenger windows may be raised or lowered using the LF master control switches or the appropriate passenger window switch. Passenger window switches receive power when the delayed accessory relay is active and the LF remote lock-out switch is in the UNLOCK position. When in the LOCK-OUT position, the passenger windows are deactivated.
The GEM controls manual down and auto down window movement with the down window relay. The relay is activated by applying ground directly to one side of the down window relay coil, and deactivated by removing the ground signal.
The delayed accessory relay provides power for the operation of the power windows and the power moon roof. The delayed accessory feature is active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or the ACC position, or when the ignition switch is changed from RUN or ACC to the OFF/LOCK position and the LF and RF doors are closed.
The GEM will deactivate the delayed accessory feature when:
  • the LF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
  • the RF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
  • 10 minutes have elapsed since the ignition switch was changed from ACC or RUN to the OFF/LOCK position.
Feature inputs:
  • LF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
  • RF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
  • Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both the RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
  • Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on the RUN/ACC input).
  • Ignition switch OFF/LOCK position (absence of battery potential on the RUN, RUN/ACC, and START inputs).
The Trainer 24 Power Window Troubleshooting

Mar 03, 2017 | 1998 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

My key is stuck in the ignition.


Your car has several different ignition positions. They each offer slightly different functionality.
Off: In this position, the engine is off, and so are your electronic accessories (unless the delay has not expired yet). You can still turn on lights (headlights, interior lights, etc.).
ACC: This is the accessory position. Turn the key to ACC if you want to listen to the radio, play a CD or use other accessories without cranking the engine.
On: In this position, all of the electronics should come on. This is also the position that the key will return to after cranking the engine.
Start: Turn the key to this position to crank the engine. Let go of the key when the engine is running and the key will return to the on position.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_switch_positions.jpg

I use to own a car that had an ignition that was ACC - OFF - ON - START.

Try turning your ignition one position clockwise and see if the radio turns off and the key comes out.

https://hackadaycom.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/ignition.jpg?w=450&h=338

Jan 29, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Key locks in the ignition in the ACC position. can't take key out


when you turn key to acc pos that is telling the ignition to go into a accessory mode which runs the radio,wipers etc... but it doesnt allow the ignition circuit to run, and the key in most vehicles will not be able to come out,this is a security protection so that you do not leave accessories on that will drain the battery. The ignition key should only be able to be removed in the OFF position.

Jan 21, 2011 | 2001 Saturn L-Series

2 Answers

The key for my 99 mazda 626 is stuck in the ignition in the acc position. The car will start and run, but the battery does not stay charged because of it being stuck. What could cause it to be stuck like...


To unlock and take off the key, try disconnecting the battery; about the charge problem, its possiblke that you have any loss wires from alternator, or the alternator self go to bad.

Keep us updated.

Jan 07, 2011 | 1999 Mazda 626

1 Answer

Ignition key came out whilst in ACC position and


us a screwdriver to turn to off position and put key back in should be fine

Nov 16, 2009 | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

05' magnum keys stuck in ignition


It is possible that your problem is with the shift lock actuator. Charge the battery up. For safety sake charge the battery outside the car. If your ignition is on you don't want to hook up jumper cables. If you do it wrong you can spike the computer. Once you have a strong battery put your trans down in to low and then firmly back into park. The shift lock mechanism is meant to keep you from starting the car without putting your foot on the brake, but if it fails it can be engaged and not let you go back into park. Use a test light to check all your fuses if it still will not work. If that does not do it, start it in neutral and take it to the garage.

Hope that helps.
Rich

Aug 17, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Magnum

2 Answers

Ignition alarm will not stop 97 ford f150


The key switch usually breaks or wears out and makes contact. It is on the lock cylinder. This would cause the chime to not come on, or stay on. Sounds like the switch is bad.

1997 F-150/250 Warning Chime, Key-In-Ignition The key-in-ignition chime warns that the key is still in the ignition when the driver's door is ajar. The key-in-ignition warning chime will sound when:
  • GEM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or ACC position and the keys are in the ignition.
  • CTM: Driver door is ajar, the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK, ACC or RUN position and the keys are in the ignition.
The key-in-ignition warning chime will stop sounding when:
  • Driver door is closed.
  • Key is removed from the ignition.
  • GEM: Ignition switch is switched to the RUN position.
The key-in-ignition warning chime inputs are:
  • Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
  • Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on RUN/ACC input only).
  • Key-in-ignition switch (grounded with key-in-ignition, open circuit with key-out).
  • LH door ajar switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
This is a pic for a 98, could not find one for 97 which may be the older style which is more prone to break.
5a6d33c.gif

Feb 14, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

My shifter is stuck in 1st geeer and my key is stuck and my car w


the ignition switch is a problem for gm cars of that year , do you have alot of keys or baubles on you keychain , that can accelerate the wear on the ignition switch.

Feb 05, 2009 | 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue

2 Answers

Key stuck in ignition??


Try replacing the ignition switch.

Jun 26, 2008 | 2003 Mazda MPV

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